Wood filler?

[haddockkl]

I came into posession of acurly maple, full stock .32 flint rifle, it is an assemblage of good parts by someone who almost knew what they were doing. I have had to add wood and repair a forming break on the side pannel opposite the lock because the lock mortice and behind the breech had been hogged out, it only had a 1/8in web holding it together and without the lock and trigger guard to support it was nearly broken. I have added a bit more wood over the top of the lock mortice to close up a gap the builder left, but now I have a visible seam between the old and new wood, maybe .02-.03" or so in, and was wondering if there is a reccomended filler outthere. It is going to be almost hidden completely by the cock but I don't want to have a place for powder foweling to accumulate.

Any advice is appreciated.

[Scota4570]

Make some shavings with a plane or spoke shave.  Glue those shavings in the gaps.  I use CA glue and accelerator.
 NO wood fillers putty type things have any place in any gun stock work........ever!  

[haddockkl]

I think I can manage that, never thought of a shaving chip, I have a carpet of them to choose from.

[Mike Brooks]

Super glue gel.

[Frank]

Super glue gel.

Yep. I have also used clear quick set epoxy. It is only a few thousandths that needs filled.
 

[Scota4570]

The CA glue and accelerator is used my model airplane guys.  The CA comes in various thicknesses.  I use medium most of the time.  The accelerator is a liquid you spritz on when you wan it to set.  It will set instantly.  It is extremely handy for inletting blunders.

[elkhorne]

Scota4570,
What brand of CA do you use or recommend. The problem with the brands at the box stores seems to be good sometimes and over their shelf life at others. I notice that Woodcraft sells several  and the accelerator. Is one of those the better choice. Thanks as I have a rifle that needs some filling around the breech plug. I have been debating with trying to cold forge the breech plug wider versus filling the wood in.
elkhorne

[frogwalking]

Go to a hobby shop and get super jet, or any brand there.  Don't buy it from Lowes or any other big box store.  It is old and often does not work correctly if at all.

[Daryl]

I second the hobby store suggestion - ones that sell balsa kits and ARF's.
I like super thin, thin, medium gap filling and thick gap filling- along with kicker. If you use the CA for closing wounds from exacto knives or other knives and chisels, do NOT spray with kicker - that will make your eyes water - more of a squirting than watering.

[FALout]

Not be harsh, but wood filler has no place on a rifle.  It will not stand up to recoil nor weather no matter how much finish is applied over it.

[M. E. Pering]

I wouldn't use filled personally, but baking soda is also an accelerant for CA glue.

Matt

[draken]

I wouldn't use filled personally, but baking soda is also an accelerant for CA glue.

Matt

Dang, Like I always say, "you learn something new every day of you life."  Baking Soda, gotta' remember that one!  Thanks for the tip Matt

[Mike Brooks]

Not be harsh, but wood filler has no place on a rifle.  It will not stand up to recoil nor weather no matter how much finish is applied over it.

You would be quite surprised.

[Keithbatt]

An epoxy bedding compound with dye added might be something to consider. Acraglass from Brownells has brown and black tints that might blend well.

[Scota4570]

My last batch I bought from,
http://www.rockler.com/adhesives/ca-glue

I also buy from Hobbyking.  Be sure and select a warehouse near you when you order. 

Lots of CA glue is the same maker with a vendors label crudely pasted over the original label.  I suspect there are only a few place that actually make it. 

If shelf life is and issue it may be that your are storing the accelerator near the CA.  Don't do that.  Also by smaller containers and only open one at a time.  Finally, thinner glue will thicken over time.  You can avoid buying the thick type and use old medium or thin type. 

[dogcatcher]

I wouldn't use an accelerator with CA glue, the accelerator makes the CA more brittle than it already is.  The CA sets fast enough without it, why take a chance to weaken it.

[Scota4570]

Well, say I'm carving or inletting and I raise a chip I don't like. I can put a drop of CA under it, press it back down, spritz, and my secret is safe.  Only about 1-minuet wasted. 

As for the accelerator making it more brittle, I'll have to take that on face value.  For my purposes it does not matter.   If i want strong I use slow set epoxy.

[Chowmi]

So if you use CA with sawdust, woodchips, etc., what do you do about matching stain color?  I would assume that the wood absorbs the CA, and then wont absorb stain. 
Is that right? 
I have a tang inlet that could use a bit of help, and maybe a few more, I'm not tellin'!
Norm

[Boompa]

Not be harsh, but wood filler has no place on a rifle.  It will not stand up to recoil nor weather no matter how much finish is applied over it.

You would be quite surprised.

    Upon close examination I've seen filler of some sort used on some fairly pricey guns, both modern and ML. Not much but maybe a hairline here or there that you have to look very close with good eyesight to see it.  I'm not saying it's a good thing or that I like it that way but it's out there.  I don't know if the old timers used any filler and I've only examined a few.  The few old guns I've seen were a little on the crude side.

[Mike Brooks]

Not be harsh, but wood filler has no place on a rifle.  It will not stand up to recoil nor weather no matter how much finish is applied over it.

You would be quite surprised.

    Upon close examination I've seen filler of some sort used on some fairly pricey guns, both modern and ML. Not much but maybe a hairline here or there that you have to look very close with good eyesight to see it.  I'm not saying it's a good thing or that I like it that way but it's out there.  I don't know if the old timers used any filler and I've only examined a few.  The few old guns I've seen were a little on the crude side.

You'll see both patches and filler of some kind on lots of continental euro  flint  guns.

[FALout]

I've seen wood filler used used before, both good and bad, and when used properly it is almost invisible.  I can not see it working long term along the edge of a lock mortise for example. The lock could be removed several times in its lifetime, that wood filler will break out.  In such case, a piece of wood glued in or patch from acraglass tinted to match will hold in better.  I had the bad luck of purchasing a rifle where either the builder or seller made a "repair" using wood filler, after shooting the piece for a bit, I pulled the barrel to find a hidden crack in lock region and wood filler being used as bedding for the barrel with wood missing under it and behind it.  This was not a case where I could go back to ask for my money back, lesson learned.  As a cabinet maker for 20+years,I've used my share of wood filler, there are uses for it, but still recommend other methods for rifle construction due to long term adhesion.

[Boompa]

   I'm no authority on building but I don't see a glued in patch that is carefully done as a big sin. Stuff happens, wood has a way of it's own and it will unexpectedly split out, pull away, etc.  There are flaws of some sort in most blanks, even worm holes that cannot be seen until you cut deep enough to expose.  A well placed patch that is glued in as a wedge then sanded to the surface is really hard to see in the end result.

[David R. Pennington]

I had a major fail on a build once with a chunk broken out in lower lock mortice edge. I walked away for a couple days. When I came back I cut a small dovetail that removed the damaged area. I cut a little piece of matching wood (cherry) and wedged and glued it in the dovetail. Trimmed it up after it dried and finished lock inlet. No one has ever noticed it, even when I ask them to find the mistake. I always have to point it out.

[Dphariss]

Generally speaking the super glues are weak and for me a PITA compared to tight bond and Elmers Carpenter glue. If the area is hidden I would fill it with acra-glas gel dyed or not. If you drill down the wrist you can epoxy in a fiberglass rod (rough it up first to add some strength. I don't care for the stuff where it shows though. The Gel does not run much but I would warm the wood and the gel somewhat before applying. There are boat repair epoxies available that are specifically designed for wood repair and strengthening. Google Rot Doctor and look at their products, there are some others as well. They have a filler and sell a fine saw dust to make their layup and other thin epoxies into a putty.

Dan

[Dphariss]

One other thing NEVER buy the epoxy often found in Hobby Stores.  Some of it is junk and has to be tested before use. Buy good stuff like Acra-glas or one of the epoxies from the wood boat builder/repair industry.
Only use dyes that are made for epoxy. Other things  may well degrade the epoxy.
Dan