Author Topic: Grain filler  (Read 4776 times)

Offline moleeyes36

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Grain filler
« on: August 22, 2016, 05:17:53 PM »
I'm trying to locate a source of black filler to use for filling the pores on walnut. I haven't had any luck locating any of it.  I can find all kinds of clear sanding sealer, but that's not what I'm seeking.  I know I've read here on the forum that some of you have used it. so does anyone have a source for it?  Thanks.

Mole Eyes
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Offline Gary Tucker

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Re: Grain filler
« Reply #1 on: August 22, 2016, 05:35:05 PM »
If I remember correctly I saw some on Jim Keebler's display at the CLA show.  You could contact him and check.  If that dosen't work out, I have heard of some people using flat black paint, sanding back to the wood, but leaving the dried paint only in the pores.  That would give a nice smooth finish.
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Offline heinz

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Re: Grain filler
« Reply #2 on: August 22, 2016, 06:04:02 PM »
Go to the art store.  Purchase Grumbacker black that is a pure carbon black. You can dilute this with linseed oll and turpentine to get the viscosity you want. Let dry a bit and rub it off with the grain.
This is basically the same lampback filler used in the 18th century. Or if you have a source of lampblach you can just use that.
The lampblack itself may be mildly carcinogenic, especially if it is oily. Keep it off you bare skin
kind regards, heinz

Offline Dennis Glazener

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Re: Grain filler
« Reply #3 on: August 22, 2016, 06:09:54 PM »
I got mine from Jim Chambers, I think he still carries it. It really sets American Walnut off, no need for any stain just use the black grain filler the finish with you desired finish.
Dennis
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Offline Kingsburyarms

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Re: Grain filler
« Reply #4 on: August 22, 2016, 06:13:13 PM »
A different way of doing it....

Individual wood fibers within the same piece of wood, especially in more open grained walnut (the usual gunstock wood), absorb applied finishes differently. Some fibers act like sponges and quickly absorb, while others more repel absorbency. This creates small voids in the finish, which when viewed closely gives the wood its beautiful texture we so admire. 

These tiny voids (pores) can be mostly filled or left mostly unfilled, either being desirable or not, depending on taste.

If these pores are allowed to remain mostly unfilled, the finished surface, though beautiful, has a rough texture that can be easily felt by the hand and seen by the eye. In other words, the surface texture, compared to a filled pore finished surface, is comparatively rough.

If pores are mostly filled, the wood surface will be smooth and slick, and can be accomplished by actually using the sanding dust from the Walnut to fill the pores. I have tried both black paint, stain and the "dust" method - and I find the last one the best. Finish your stock to it's final shape and smoothness, Then apply the first coat of finish (oil) with 600-900 grit sandpaper until dull, do NOT wipe down, when dried, apply the second coat of oil with 900 grit paper, this will sand down through the oil, create a "slurry" and that micro slurry will fill all the grain holes. You can then add any amount of coats on top of that without using paint, coloring or ink.




Offline Dennis Glazener

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Re: Grain filler
« Reply #5 on: August 22, 2016, 06:17:33 PM »
Just checked Jim Chamber's site for the filler. He lists it as catalog # FK-WF @ $5 per can. I have used mine for two rifles and still have some left. Its shown in the price list down near the bottom. Here is a link to the list  http://www.flintlocks.com/pdf/pricesheet.pdf
Dennis
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Offline jerrywh

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Re: Grain filler
« Reply #6 on: August 22, 2016, 06:56:17 PM »
 The simplest way to do what you want is to spray paint the stock black with any type of ordinary black spray paint and then sand it back into the grain. Just put on a light coat and let it dry.
 I'm not telling you something I haven't tried. I did this to my nephew's gun for his birthday and it came out so good that he slept with the gun the night it was done. I got this tip from a member of the American Custom Gunmakers Guild. When you sand it back put the finish on at the same time and just sand the dust into the pours of the wood. When you get it like you want then add the finish coats over it. 
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Offline smylee grouch

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Re: Grain filler
« Reply #7 on: August 22, 2016, 07:32:18 PM »
I think Brownells used to sell a product for that too.

Offline moleeyes36

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Re: Grain filler
« Reply #8 on: August 22, 2016, 08:06:04 PM »
Just checked Jim Chamber's site for the filler. He lists it as catalog # FK-WF @ $5 per can. I have used mine for two rifles and still have some left. Its shown in the price list down near the bottom. Here is a link to the list  http://www.flintlocks.com/pdf/pricesheet.pdf
Dennis

Thanks, Dennis.  I thought I'd seen it on Jim's site but when I looked this morning I couldn't locate it under the Parts tab with the other finishing products.  I never thought to look on the price list  :P.  I spent quite a while looking on various other sites, Brownells, Woodcraft, Jim kibler, TOW, MBS, etc. with no luck.  Should have had another cup of coffee when I got up.

Mole Eyes
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Offline moleeyes36

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Re: Grain filler
« Reply #9 on: August 22, 2016, 08:17:55 PM »
The simplest way to do what you want is to spray paint the stock black with any type of ordinary black spray paint and then sand it back into the grain. Just put on a light coat and let it dry.
 I'm not telling you something I haven't tried. I did this to my nephew's gun for his birthday and it came out so good that he slept with the gun the night it was done. I got this tip from a member of the American Custom Gunmakers Guild. When you sand it back put the finish on at the same time and just sand the dust into the pours of the wood. When you get it like you want then add the finish coats over it. 


Jerry, I'm a little slow today I guess.  Are you saying that when you sand back the dry black spray paint you wet sand it with the finishing oil?  Thanks.

Mole Eyes
Don Richards
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NRA Chief Range Safety Officer

Offline BOB HILL

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Re: Grain filler
« Reply #10 on: August 22, 2016, 08:44:30 PM »
Missed you at Lex. Dennis. Jim still carries the black filler bought some Sat........Bob
South Carolina Lowcountry

Offline frogwalking

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Re: Grain filler
« Reply #11 on: August 22, 2016, 09:25:04 PM »
Jims black filler couldn't be simpler to use.  Just be sure you seal the stock first, or you are in for a earning experience.  I love the way it works and looks. 
Quality, schedule, price; Pick any two.

Offline jerrywh

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Re: Grain filler
« Reply #12 on: August 23, 2016, 12:35:27 AM »
Moleeyes 36. yes that is correct. Just sand it right into the pours of the wood with the finish.
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Offline Eric Krewson

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Re: Grain filler
« Reply #13 on: August 23, 2016, 12:42:38 AM »
Lots of good suggestions; I filled the grain of this walnut with Birchwood Casey walnut grain sealer, it came out really slick.


Offline webradbury

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Re: Grain filler
« Reply #14 on: August 23, 2016, 03:34:17 AM »
A different way of doing it....

Individual wood fibers within the same piece of wood, especially in more open grained walnut (the usual gunstock wood), absorb applied finishes differently. Some fibers act like sponges and quickly absorb, while others more repel absorbency. This creates small voids in the finish, which when viewed closely gives the wood its beautiful texture we so admire. 

These tiny voids (pores) can be mostly filled or left mostly unfilled, either being desirable or not, depending on taste.

If these pores are allowed to remain mostly unfilled, the finished surface, though beautiful, has a rough texture that can be easily felt by the hand and seen by the eye. In other words, the surface texture, compared to a filled pore finished surface, is comparatively rough.

If pores are mostly filled, the wood surface will be smooth and slick, and can be accomplished by actually using the sanding dust from the Walnut to fill the pores. I have tried both black paint, stain and the "dust" method - and I find the last one the best. Finish your stock to it's final shape and smoothness, Then apply the first coat of finish (oil) with 600-900 grit sandpaper until dull, do NOT wipe down, when dried, apply the second coat of oil with 900 grit paper, this will sand down through the oil, create a "slurry" and that micro slurry will fill all the grain holes. You can then add any amount of coats on top of that without using paint, coloring or ink.





+1 on this method. It works great. Probably a little more work but it's what I use. Will
I love the smell of Walnut shavings in the morning!

Offline kutter

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Re: Grain filler
« Reply #15 on: August 23, 2016, 06:54:20 AM »
I use the black 'toner' powder used in copiers.
I have a 35mm film canister that I filled with the stuff many years ago and I've still got
enough to finish more stocks than I'll probably ever get to.
I just finish the wood as normal, Then I add a couple ultra thin top coatings of
artists Linseed Oil to the finished stock.
 It;s to these thin rubbed out coatings that I
shake a very little amt of the dust onto the oil and rub it out. The black powder gets trapped
in the pores of the wood  and makes for a very nice effect.
Others plant it into the grain earlier in the finishing process,,whatever works for you.

One of the copier toner refill bottles will last you a couple lifetimes I would think.

You can always crush up a clinker of real charcoal,,you'll get plenty of fine dust from that,