Author Topic: Barrel crown question (Read 6345 times)

Squirrel pizza · « **on:** August 23, 2016, 05:17:24 PM »

I have a rifle barrel that shoots real well. Using a bore light shows it to be clean and shiny. It doesn't cut patches and I've lapped it fairly good. But I notice when loading or cleaning, using a hickory rod, that it shaves itty-bitty shavings off the rod. I'm very happy with the performance of the barrel, and don't want to change it, but haven't run into this before and wondering what is causing the shaving. Any thoughts?

D. Taylor Sapergia · « **Reply #1 on:** August 23, 2016, 05:35:14 PM »

If your bore is, say .40 cal, and your rod is 3/8", it will when flexing in the down stroke, rub against the rifling, and the edges of the lands could shear off tiny scrapings. Apart from the wear on both the rifling and the rod, I'd say forget about it. And go to a stainless steel stiff rod for cleaning.

Squirrel pizza · « **Reply #2 on:** August 23, 2016, 05:45:48 PM »

Makes sense Mr. Sapergia, just hadn't run into it with other barrels. By the way, I admire your rifles. Very nice!

pushboater · « **Reply #3 on:** August 23, 2016, 06:31:50 PM »

Ed Hamburg makes a tool to cone the muzzle on just about any caliber rifle. If it bothers you that may fix the problem.

Capt. David

Squirrel pizza · « **Reply #4 on:** August 23, 2016, 06:40:15 PM »

Mr. Hamburg tool may help, but I don't have a lathe to put it in.

P.W.Berkuta · « **Reply #5 on:** August 23, 2016, 06:47:34 PM »

I'd do as Taylor suggests

. If the gun is performing well I would leave it alone

. A muzzle protector and a metal range rod would be fine.

EC121 · « **Reply #6 on:** August 23, 2016, 07:21:48 PM »

One day when it is raining and you are really bored, you can take a small dowel with some fine grit wet-or-dry sandpaper and polish the edges of the crown on the rifling side, but til then just shoot it.

Daryl · « **Reply #7 on:** August 23, 2016, 07:38:35 PM »

Quote from: EC121 on August 23, 2016, 07:21:48 PM

One day when it is raining and you are really bored, you can take a small dowel with some fine grit wet-or-dry sandpaper and polish the edges of the crown on the rifling side, but til then just shoot it.

ditto - I use the end of my thumb.

Squirrel pizza · « **Reply #8 on:** August 23, 2016, 07:45:03 PM »

EC I believe I'd be afraid to try that. I don't want to do anything that might change the way it shoots, and doing that by hand might change the uniformity of the crown. Mostly wanted to know if the shaving issue was indicative of an unknown(to me) problem or if this is common. Taylor's thoughts of an undersized rod in an oversized whole makes sense to me, but of course I didn't think of it. I've always thought using a metal rod could damage the crown, which is why I use a wooden rod. Even though I've had more than one wood rod split in and into my hand while hurriedly loading to slay the tree rats. Mostly due to a dirty rifle. I've been awarded 3 Purple Acorns in my career. Maybe a steel rod isn't a bad idea.

Mark Elliott · « **Reply #9 on:** August 23, 2016, 08:52:30 PM »

I would like to second the suggestion of a steel range rod with a muzzle protector. I always use a range rod. The hickory ramrod on my rifles is just for show, or emergency use.

EC121 · « **Reply #10 on:** August 23, 2016, 10:51:19 PM »

Quote from: Squirrel pizza on August 23, 2016, 07:45:03 PM

EC I believe I'd be afraid to try that. I don't want to do anything that might change the way it shoots, and doing that by hand might change the uniformity of the crown. Mostly wanted to know if the shaving issue was indicative of an unknown(to me) problem or if this is common. Taylor's thoughts of an undersized rod in an oversized whole makes sense to me, but of course I didn't think of it. I've always thought using a metal rod could damage the crown, which is why I use a wooden rod. Even though I've had more than one wood rod split in and into my hand while hurriedly loading to slay the tree rats. Mostly due to a dirty rifle. I've been awarded 3 Purple Acorns in my career. Maybe a steel rod isn't a bad idea.

You aren't changing anything on the crown. Just polishing the little sharp edge of the crown. Theoretically, the muzzle uniformity was messed up when the maker crowned it. Who knows how good his lathe is centered. Keeping a square muzzle is why the precision shooters use false muzzles. Personally, I don't use a wooden rod. Maybe for a second shot reload in the woods. If you are using a wooden rod for anything, saving the crown can't be much of a concern.

Daryl · « **Reply #11 on:** August 24, 2016, 12:32:39 AM »

My tests, although not approved by "Nitpickers World Group International" showed hickory rod and nylon to be the least abrasive.

That is why when using a steel or stainless rod for range loading, I have a sliding muzzle protector on the rod.

This crown has been loaded, perhaps 8,000 times - gone through a dozen or more nipples anyway. Most loads were with the rifle's hickory rod tapered 7/16" hickory rod, the original to the rifle, but I've taken to using a nylon rod for the range as a 5/8" rod is well undersized.
I use aircraft stainless, whatever that is, for the new .50 on the range.

Squirrel pizza · « **Reply #12 on:** August 24, 2016, 02:50:58 AM »

Well I went to the range this afternoon and took one of the steel rods. It took a while to find a .54 cleaning jag and a concave loading jag with threads that matched the rod but I did it. I had the choice between a brass cone shaped muzzle protector and a plastic one. The plastic one went down the bore about an inch with a disc that covered the muzzle almost completely. I tried both and found I liked the plastic one better as it stayed in place without being held. I liked the steel rod with one exception. Being a three piece rod plus a jag I found I was constantly re tightening everything. No big deal. So I guess my shaving issues are over. But I'm still wondering why.

EC121 · « **Reply #13 on:** August 24, 2016, 06:04:52 AM »

I'm always having to tighten the jag. I guess the threads turn opposite the rifling. Now I automatically give the rod a turn when it hits the bottom. To my way of thinking the shavings can only be caused by pushing the wood across the ends of the lands and grooves.

Longknife · « **Reply #14 on:** August 24, 2016, 04:44:18 PM »

Quote from: Squirrel pizza on August 23, 2016, 06:40:15 PM

Mr. Hamburg tool may help, but I don't have a lathe to put it in.

Squirrel, You Do not need a lathe to operate the tool that I sell. All you need is a tap wrench. You do net even have to remove the barrel from the stock.

Hungry Horse · « **Reply #15 on:** August 24, 2016, 05:16:07 PM »

This sounds a lot like someone fixing something that isn't broke. JMO. It just seem that if it is shooting fine and you don't mess with it, it will continue to shoot fine. But, if you monkey around with it, the shooting fine part might go away. I wouldn't take that chance.

Hungry Horse

Squirrel pizza · « **Reply #16 on:** August 24, 2016, 08:41:42 PM »

Mr. Horse I agree with you 100%. And as i said from the start i dont want to change anything. It shoots just fine. I was just curious as to why it would shave the bench rod and not cut a patch. And like i said i believe Taylors explanation makes enough sense as to be the cause. Like my other technical question, is was just something i was wondering about. But im good now.

moleeyes36 · « **Reply #17 on:** August 25, 2016, 12:10:15 AM »

Quote from: Squirrel pizza on August 24, 2016, 02:50:58 AM

Well I went to the range this afternoon and took one of the steel rods. It took a while to find a .54 cleaning jag and a concave loading jag with threads that matched the rod but I did it. I had the choice between a brass cone shaped muzzle protector and a plastic one. The plastic one went down the bore about an inch with a disc that covered the muzzle almost completely. I tried both and found I liked the plastic one better as it stayed in place without being held. I liked the steel rod with one exception. Being a three piece rod plus a jag I found I was constantly re tightening everything. No big deal. So I guess my shaving issues are over. But I'm still wondering why.

I've found multi-section range rods to be a PITA. A one piece, stainless steel (with a muzzle protector) for $20 plus shipping is like finding money. Jason has them and they are a good product. His website http://www.ricebarrels.com/products.html shows them under the New Products tab. Give him a call.

Stainless Steel Range Rods

Included is a threaded on handle for strength and as a crown protector.

Available in 1/4", 5/16" and 3/8" diameter and 36" and 48" lengths.

$20 each.

Mole Eyes

WadePatton · « **Reply #18 on:** August 25, 2016, 12:45:12 AM »

Quote from: moleeyes36 on August 25, 2016, 12:10:15 AM

Quote from: Squirrel pizza on August 24, 2016, 02:50:58 AM
Well I went to the range this afternoon and took one of the steel rods. It took a while to find a .54 cleaning jag and a concave loading jag with threads that matched the rod but I did it. I had the choice between a brass cone shaped muzzle protector and a plastic one. The plastic one went down the bore about an inch with a disc that covered the muzzle almost completely. I tried both and found I liked the plastic one better as it stayed in place without being held. I liked the steel rod with one exception. Being a three piece rod plus a jag I found I was constantly re tightening everything. No big deal. So I guess my shaving issues are over. But I'm still wondering why.

I've found multi-section range rods to be a PITA. A one piece, stainless steel (with a muzzle protector) for $20 plus shipping is like finding money. Jason has them and they are a good product. His website http://www.ricebarrels.com/products.html shows them under the New Products tab. Give him a call.

Stainless Steel Range Rods

Included is a threaded on handle for strength and as a crown protector.

Available in 1/4", 5/16" and 3/8" diameter and 36" and 48" lengths.

$20 each.

Mole Eyes

YES.

and also I would suggest steel or stainless steel ONLY for pulling stuck balls,

Mark Elliott · « **Reply #19 on:** August 26, 2016, 01:03:03 AM »

Instead of using any type of rod to remove stuck balls, I would strongly suggest a CO2 discharger. It is the safest way to go.

WadePatton · « **Reply #20 on:** August 26, 2016, 01:56:04 AM »

dry balls are safe balls!!!

Squirrel pizza · « **Reply #21 on:** August 26, 2016, 02:09:20 AM »

Mark and Wade i agree with you both. And the same reply to you both. Sometimes thats just not possible. Though you may know better, you end up doing something, shall we say, less than safe?

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Author Topic: Barrel crown question (Read 6345 times)

pushboater