wood hardening

[Whaleman]

This refers to my Hawken build:
http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=40540.0
I am shooting and sighting in and it shoots way better than my 65 year old eyes and hands can hold. My question: My wood is nice and I like it. I used LMF stain and Chambers oil finish. It seems if the stock just touches something lightly it leaves a small ding or dent. Is there something I missed? After staining is there something to use to harden the surface layer of wood to not ding and dent so easy? Would Permalyn sealer harden the wood surface layer before the Chambers oil? Any secrets out there? Thanks very much, Dan

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

I can see by the finishes on your rifle that you are a perfectionist.  That has it's drawbacks...you will always be sensitive about the fair wear and tear to which well used rifles are prone.  My advice is to relax and let the chips fall where they may.  Just think of the wrinkles you put into your mother's face, and she still loves you!  and visa-versa.

[FALout]

Taylor seems dead on.  I'd suggest build another and hang it on the wall, shoot the one with the dings in it.

[flehto]

The finish is too glossy ...dull it up and you won't see anything.

Built one for a customer who wanted it glossy. He built the fanciest gun case  I've ever seen and won't take it outside because it might rain. Mostly it's locked up in a safe......Fred

[M. E. Pering]

Hi Dan,

On all of my rifles except one, I have used Permalyn sealer.  I find a few coats do seem to make the wood slightly more durable, but they have to be absolutely dry before the second coat, and likewise before the third.  I believe Minwax also makes a wood hardener, though I have never tried it, so I can't report any results.  

However, I have never tried using Permalyn sealer after the final finish was applied, so I also can't report on how that might work.  I would think that you would need to strip the stock down to bare wood, just as if doing a complete refinish to be sure of any success.  A test might be for you to try and steam out a dent that you have put in it, and see if it comes out.  If it does, then the Permalyn might work over the finish you already have on it... If water can penetrate, sealer should be able to as well.

Beautiful finish on that rifle, BTW.

Matt

[PPatch]

You've got to expect dings and such using and shooting the new rifle. After the first few you will get over the small "imperfections." Use it and enjoy it, those minor dings come with the territory and simply add character that you can't get any other way.

To answer your question I don't believe wood hardening will gain you much, you will still manage to ding her up.

Nice rifle!

dave

[Daryl]

Many woods are quite soft and with soft finishes, will show normal wear and tear more than others, harder woods and harder finishes.

I used True Oil on this rifle, rubbing it back with pumice or rotten stone.  It has now survived just over 30 years of use - has many marks, scratches, etc, but really doesn't show much due to the finish. This California English, Claro/English walnut has fired over 3,000 balls so far and it still going strong. Most marks come from the bush, but since about 2005, it's been from rendezvous trail walks there and here at home.





Finally, my late buddy Brad, holding the 'old' girl.




So - wear marks - absolutely & covered in them, but with a good slightly hushed finish, I think she still looks pretty good.

[longcruise]

You could try treating the stock with minwax wood hardener before the finish goes on.  You certainly want to experiment first!

[Daryl]

You could try treating the stock with minwax wood hardener before the finish goes on.  You certainly want to experiment first!

Would that not hinder staining - or is it applied after staining, before finishing? I've never heard of wood hardener.

[elkhorne]

Whaleman,
First of all that is a beautiful job you did on that Hawken. I love the case hardening on your furniture. But like Taylor said, just enjoy the rifle for what you built it - to shoot and have fun with. The honest "aging" that will result from "use and not abuse" will give your rifle character. That is what I love about many old rifles whether they be longrifles or lever action. Hey, just consider what Jack Brooks told us at WKU in a class. He had a client that wanted his rifle "aged" and so he drug it down a gravel driveway before finishing his "aging" on that rifle! Enjoy your rifle.
elkhorne

[Whaleman]

Thanks for all the replys. I am going to rub the stock to take off some of the gloss. Dan

[Mike Brooks]

Yep, got to be carefull with those soft stocks. Look how bad this one got banged up and it's just off my bench and not even delivered to it's new owner yet!

[Daryl]

 

[Mike Brooks]

[Mark Elliott]

I am with Fred.   The rifle is too glossy.   You need to rub it back to a satin finish that won't show dents and scratches as bad.    As to dents and scratches, that is part of the character of the gun.   My guns have a few by the time they are delivered and get more over time.   With a satin oil finish,  it isn't a problem.   Just apply some more oil over the dents and scratches every once in a while and all is good.    If you want it perfect, then you are going to have to keep it under glass.

[hanshi]

YOU WILL SUCK IT UP, YOU WILL DO IT BY THE NUMBER OR I WILL SERIOUSLY #&*% YOU UP!

Well, regardless what Gunny says, FW&T will happen.  It appalled me that each time I picked up one of my guns there was always a new ding in the stock or scratch on the barrel.  I could never figure out where the dings came from, they just "appeared" out of thin air.  You have to harden your heart and accept that FW&T happens to all guns that are handled.  And it doesn't keep them from looking good.

[longcruise]

You could try treating the stock with minwax wood hardener before the finish goes on.  You certainly want to experiment first!

Would that not hinder staining - or is it applied after staining, before finishing? I've never heard of wood hardener.

I m pretty sure I would be best put on after stain and before finishing.  I have only used it in arrow making by soaking the last six inches of the arrow tip in the hardener it significantly toughens the wood.  It is clear and invisible on Port orford cedar.

[longcruise]

http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/maintenance-repair/minwax-high-performance-wood-hardener

[flehto]

I much prefer a "dull" finish and the pic below is what I think is slightly too shiny....Fred

[Whaleman]

I ordered some rottenstone and plan to rub down and cut the gloss down. Dan