drill jig modification(update with pics)

[Joe S.]

been pondering how to get the slots for the wedge keys done on stock without the benefit of a drill press.Drill jigs tend to have a big point and on a pre carved stock would tend to put a divot in the wood.While my stock is still pretty slabsided and will need a lot of slimming and would take care of the divots I figured why not see what tinkering with jig would do.Had a buddy turn down the points to a slight flat with the drill bit sized ends I will use to drill the holes.Have seen here in the past folks having difficulties with the radius on precarved stocks.Will see how this experiment works and let you know[ ][/img]

[Jerry V Lape]

You might not need a drill press at all.  I mark out the wedge slots on both sides of the stock, use a chisel made from thin metal and just slightly narrower than the width of the slot.  Cut in on the top and bottom of the slot.  A second chisel I made is just under a 1/16" wide and is used for the ends of the wedge slot.  It takes about 5 minutes per slot to cut them through to the middle of the barrel channel.  The real key is to mark the depth with a good depth gauge and begin the layout from the bottom of the wedge and a center line of the wedge on both sides of the stock.  The center line has to match the center line of the lug on the barrel.  In shop made tools I posted a couple photos of the marking guide and how I use it. 

[Joe S.]

Jerry my plan was to lay out the slots then center punch three holes within
 the slots use the drill jig with a hand drill and come at it from both sides.I would clean it up with small chisel and then heat up the wedge key and push it thru to finish the job.

[David Rase]

Jerry my plan was to lay out the slots then center punch three holes within
 the slots use the drill jig with a hand drill and come at it from both sides.I would clean it up with small chisel and then heat up the wedge key and push it thru to finish the job.

Joe,
That is exactly how I inlet the barrel keys.  In fact, I have 2 guns in my shop that will get slots put in them this week.
David

[mtlonghunter]

On putting in barrel keys I have a drift made of the same size stock as the finished keys. Only need one hole that goes through the slot in the underlug. If you don't want burn marks on your stock and don't plan on escutcheons , a drift works very well and makes perfect slots . They are easy to make and can be made one for each size key you use.

[Jerry V Lape]

Well I certainly am ignorant of the term "drift" and how one would be used.  Could you show us please?

[Joe S.]

I too would like to know how a "drift" would be used in this application.I have a few andfail to see how it could be used to open up a slot but if there's a better mouse trap I'm in.

[elkhorne]

mtlonghunter,
Could you please show the forum the "drift tool" you are talking about and if you need help posting the picture(s), I am sure Dennis can help you. This sounds like a great tool and alternative to burning a slot in for a key. Thanks and for most of us a picture will get our minds and eyes engaged with what you are describing.
elkhorne

[JCurtiss]

You've got my interest piqued about this "drift" too. 

I picture a drift as typically a cylindrical shaft that you beat on with a hammer to push or move something that is pressed into position.

[PPatch]

Jerry my plan was to lay out the slots then center punch three holes within
 the slots use the drill jig with a hand drill and come at it from both sides.I would clean it up with small chisel and then heat up the wedge key and push it thru to finish the job.

Exactly how I did mine a couple of months ago, they came out dead on. I like using the finger drills because you have so much control.

dave

[elkhorne]

PPatch,
When you reference a finger drill, are you talking about what some call a pin vise with different size collets to take various size drill bits? In our case with barrel pins or keys, we usually use a 1/16" drill bit. I apologize if I am a little dense but one thing I have learned, as I follow this forum, is that in different areas of our country represented, one tool is called one thing in one area and something else in another. Thanks.
elkhorne

[Jerry V Lape]

I am building a rifle as a copy of an original which uses wedges which are only 1/16th thick.  While practicing the holes for this very thin wedge I found I couldn't make three holes with 1/16th drills straight enough to reliably produce a hole with nice straight top and bottom edges.  So I tried the method I cited above without drilling, but with specialized chisels I made to cut in the top/bottom and another for the ends of the slots.  I have confidence in this method which is what counts.  Others may just be better with their drilling technique than I am. 

[Joe S.]

Thats a pretty thin wedge,thankfully the ones I'm using are closer to an 1/8th.making it a little easier to work with.I have it all layed out and ready to go but figured I would hold off and see what kind of tool mtlonghunter is using to do his slots.While I'm sure all the ways to get this done discribed above and other threads work I'm always open to other options.

[David Rase]

I just put in 4 barrel keys this weekend using the 3 hole drill method and they are 1/16" thick.  In fact, all the wedges I have installed in the past couple of years have been 1/16" x 1/4" wide. 
David

[J. Talbert]

I'm on board with the method described above by Joe S and David up to the point of heating the wedge and burning the final opening.

My experience with that was not good.  I abandoned that method after the first slot, and finished up the rest with chisels and files.

Is there some trick to keep from scorching too much wood around the opening?

Jeff

[elkhorne]

David,
I have one of your drill jigs and was wondering where I can get some 1/16" replacement bits for your jig. It makes since now why your jig is so good and that is because of the length for stability. I love it but need to get some replacement "aircraft" bits because good old Murphy's Law will ensure I will break my current one in the dark of night on a moonless stormy night! Thanks again for a great tool that essentially replaces a drill press.
elkhorne

[David Rase]

David,
I have one of your drill jigs and was wondering where I can get some 1/16" replacement bits for your jig. It makes since now why your jig is so good and that is because of the length for stability. I love it but need to get some replacement "aircraft" bits because good old Murphy's Law will ensure I will break my current one in the dark of night on a moonless stormy night! Thanks again for a great tool that essentially replaces a drill press.
elkhorne

I used to get mine from ENCO.  ENCO is now MSC industrial.  Here is their link.
http://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn/Holemaking/Drilling-Drill-Bits/Metalworking-Multipurpose-Drill-Bits/Aircraft-Extension-Drill-Bits?navid=12106188#navid=12106188+4288237007+4288188774+4287625181

David

[Acer Saccharum]

Thanks again for a great tool that essentially replaces a drill press.
elkhorne

This jig is BETTER than a drill press, because it's really difficult to set a drill press up so you can hold the gun accurately(and securely) AND get the holes aligned. The jig takes care of all that.

Aircraft drills can be gotten from MSC Direct or Enco.

[SingleMalt]

I use the same jig, and it works so well, I rarely use my drill press.  What I'd like to find is a set of decent wire gauge/numbered drill bits that won't need a second mortgage to buy! 

[David Rase]

What I'd like to find is a set of decent wire gauge/numbered drill bits that won't need a second mortgage to buy! 

True dat....I have made a few guides on special request for numbered drills and you are correct, the price increases to cover the cost of 6" aircraft drills in number sizes.  Labor is still the same, no matter what the drill size.
David 

[Joe S.]

[ ][/ ] ] ]drill jig worked great and will clean up the holes and am still contemplating whether or not to heat up the keys to finish the job or go with a small jewlers file.I may do a dry run on some scrap from the cut offs from the stock.

[Joe S.]

[ ]http://[/ ] ] ]Used the stud on jig as a punch also,worked great as well.

[Joe S.]

sneaking up on it with a small file,little more on the sides and will decide to heat the key or finish with a file.All in all the jig worked and before the modification the jig proved unstable.While this stock is still slabsided the modification would be most effective on a radius as well.Those drill size points hold things pretty tight and don't put a divot in the stock.Hopefully somebody with the same concerns on how to can make use of this. ]

[Joe S.]

[ ][/img] ]Used small files to finish this one off and and may try heating up the key on the next two.While it's my first crack at doing this it seems to take way to long and figure there's better way to do it.On average how long does it take you folks who do this for a living per wedge key?