Sealing wood against moisture under the barrel, lock, and patchbox.

[mossyhorn]

What type of sealant should I use under the barrel, patch box, and lock before finishing my rifle
to protect from moisture?

[Mauser06]

Don't know if it's right or wrong...but I have always used my finish...put on a little heavy(not crazy heavy..just not a neat thin coat)  and usually do that a couple times..

I'm sure there are sealers...but I don't see the need?

[Darkhorse]

I use Chambers original oil finish and I put several coats on all those places you mentioned. First coat is put on heavy and when the wood stops absorbing it then I wipe it off with a cloth. I'll do this the first 2 coats. Thereafter every coat I put on the rifle I also put a light coat under the barrel etc.
I use a Q tip soaked in the finish to reach every place I possible can such as the lock bolt holes and tight spots in the lock mortice.
I have one rifle I finished like this 15 or so years ago. It is my deer rifle and sees a lot of use. I have not noticed any absorbtion anywhere. When I remove the barrel there is often some water present from cleaning. It is not being absorbed so it must be working.

[Pete G.]

I use Formby's tung oil finish, especially on end grain. It is thin enough to penetrate and dries hard. I usually pour a small amount into the recessed areas and spread with a small brush. Still haven't quite figured out a good method for the RR hole yet.

[Joe S.]

soft bore brush with what ever, put it on the end of a thin cleaning rod

[mossyhorn]

I'm staining with iron nitrate and finishing with permalyn from laurel mountain forge.
I'll not stain the areas being covered. Will the permalyn be enough if I put several coats
on the areas in question?

[L. Akers]

I use tung oil as a finish but I seal the stock with a mixture of 25% tung oil, 25% urathane, and 50% mineral spirits.  I slop this all over the entire stock inside and out and let it dry for 24 hrs.

[Mike Brooks]

I use 1 coat of what ever I'm finishing with. Any more than that and the gun doesn't fit back together well. I'd recommend  several coats if you're planning on scuba diving with it or storing the gun a a 55 gallon drum of water,.
Originals I have had apart don't seem to have had anything applied under the parts.

[T*O*F]

Originals I have had apart don't seem to have had anything applied under the parts.

Yeah, and they have lasted 100 - 300 years without rusting.  I guess we're just smarter than they were.  They must have thought that wood needs to breathe.

[Turtle]

 In a video on gun building, Hershel House put axle grease under the butt plate. I don't remember if he used it elsewise.
                                             Turtle

[mossyhorn]

Since I'll only be scuba diving in fresh waster I'll use only one light coat and hope that'll do.  
Should the barrel be lightly waxed on the lower half before final installation.

[Daryl]

Since I'll only be scuba diving in fresh waster I'll use only one light coat and hope that'll do.  
Should the barrel be lightly waxed on the lower half before final installation.

That would certainly help without hindering assembly or hurting the wood.  Too- a coat of Rig on the steel also would be all that's needed.  For guns routinely teken apart for cleaning, none of this is necessary as they are routinely cleaned and re-oiled, greased or waxed.

[mossyhorn]

I've seem the term "Rig" used on the forum several times, however, I'm not familiar with the product.
What is it usually used for and where can it be found?
Thanks for all the responses!

[pushboater]

I usually put on at least one coat of whatever finish I'm using and let it dry good. Before I reassemble everything, as extra insurance, I smear on a coat of axle grease under the barrel and under the butt plate. I then assemble the rifle and wipe off whatever squeezes out. Works for me.

Capt. David

[Jerry V Lape]

RIG is a product name and stands for Rust Inhibiting Grease.  Good stuff, particularly for storing in my experience.

[elkhorne]

mossyhorn,
The product called "Rig" is a heavy grease that I first learned about from the curator of the Winchester collection at the Buffalo Bill Historical Center in Cody, WY back in 1977. He said they use Rig on all the guns in the center and it was one of the best preservatives on the market. I have used it every since then and routinely use a piece of cheesecloth loaded with it whenever I wipe my guns down. I have never had any problem with rust on items coated with Rig. It has the consistency of axle grease and can be purchased from Midway USA and it is made by Birchwood Casey. Hope this helps.
elkhorne

[Bob Roller]

mossyhorn,
The product called "Rig" is a heavy grease that I first learned about from the curator of the Winchester collection at the Buffalo Bill Historical Center in Cody, WY back in 1977. He said they use Rig on all the guns in the center and it was one of the best preservatives on the market. I have used it every since then and routinely use a piece of cheesecloth loaded with it whenever I wipe my guns down. I have never had any problem with rust on items coated with Rig. It has the consistency of axle grease and can be purchased from Midway USA and it is made by Birchwood Casey. Hope this helps.
elkhorne

R I G= Rust Inhibiting Grease. I used it for years and still have a tube of it.
Good stuff.

Bob Roller

[rfd]

after staining the all the wood, i wick in quality water thin CYA to the barrel channel and lock inlet.  mostly i use hot stuff and a micro nozzle lifted from the med industry to get the stuff into the tightest of spots, but i also make up a 'brush' of sorts from torn paper towel.  if used sparingly, it cures in seconds (it will puff 'smoke' when the curing is done).  great care must be taken NOT to breathe in the TOXIC fumes.  this both hardens and seals the wood.  if the stock has no end grain protection (butt, muzzle, ramrod entry, etc) i'll also liberally do up those areas as well.  then i'll clear coat, typically with TOTW original oil finish, rubbed in for 6 to dozens of coats, over time.  nope, not hysterically correct, mea culpa.

[PPatch]

Since I'll only be scuba diving in fresh waster I'll use only one light coat and hope that'll do. 
Should the barrel be lightly waxed on the lower half before final installation.

Wax if you want to. I use a small oil-rag can to apply a very thin film of 3in1 oil on barrels, tools and such, any metal because here in the deep south the humidity will eat metal alive in short order if not protected. The oiler is just a small can with a towel rolled up and inserted then trimmed to 1/4 inch about the lip of the can. Apply oil to the cloth, go slowly, you don't want the cloth wet with oil but only slightly damp or even a bit less. Every two to three months you top off the oil.



I use during builds to keep the rust rot at bay, generally putting on a coat at the end of the work session. Since you're only applying a very very thin coat of oil it will not be a problem with stains and finishes.

dave

[Turtle]

 I have become increasing fond of Fluid Film for this and as a barrel bore coating. I guess one question is would any of these greases soak in and soften the wood like excess gun oil does on modern guns? I used to put mink oil in the barrel channel and elsewise, but fount it really didn't inhibit rust well.
                                              Turtle

[mossyhorn]

I thought that Johnsons floor wax might be good to coat the lower half of the barrel and but plate as long as I don't over do it along with a coat of finish. Would this cause more rust however by trapping more moisture to the barrel especially when transferring from cold to heat in winter?

Lots of good information here to ponder! Thanks

[Darkhorse]

I use the Chambers original oil finish (see Previous post) in an attempt to prevent the stock wood from absorbing moisture and swelling or warping.
I use 3 coats of Johnson's paste wax on all metal surfaces of my hunting guns. When I come in from hunting I just rub all the prints out with a cotton cloth. No oil of any kind on  the metal surface. I hunt the humid deep south and I've never had a problem with rust using this method.  I was leary at first, but now years later I'm convinced.
Of course oil is used where appropriate such as inside the lock and inside the barrel.