wedge key question

[Joe S.]

[ ][/img]key head looks a little big,should I file it down a little and what's the best way to put a slant on the back side to fit the finish profile of the stock?

[Ed Wenger]

Without seeing the rest of the rifle for perspective, it's kind of difficult to tell, but I would tend to believe it needs to be filed smaller.  Most pulls (wedge keys) had fairly small heads, and the shafts were pretty thin as well. 

I don't know if this will make sense, but one way to slant the heads is to use a piece of steel stock that has an angle filed on the face, so it looks like a flat chisel.  If fact, an old flat chisel would probably work...  Anyway, clamp the pull and angled stock in a vise, with the pointy end resting on the bottom of the pull head.  Gently tap with a small hammer and the head will slant down.  The reason for the angled stock is to make room for the head to slant.  That's probably confusing, hope it makes some sense...  I should probably post a photo...


         Ed

[PPatch]

Joe;

If you are doing them cold  - tap gently and don't try and angle it too much - the heads on those cast keys will snap off in a heartbeat.

dave

[Joe S.]

heads are plenty thick,even more so when I make the heads smaller.Suppose I could put a slant on them with some file work,opinions?

[westbj2]

Make one of these and with heat you can have a slanted head in about 2 minutes.

Jim

[David Rase]

Make one of these and with heat you can have a slanted head in about 2 minutes.
Jim

Now I have another tool to make.  I have been using a piece of 3/4" x 3/8" steel bar bent in a U shape with a curve/slant ground into the open end which I insert the key into, clamp it in my vise jaws and bend the head.  Same concept, just not as clean as yours, plus yours allows the key to slide easier while angling the head.
David

[Ed Wenger]

That's a great jig!  Along the same lines as I was trying to describe, but way more sophisticated.  I like it!


         Ed

[Long Ears]

Dave, I want one too please. That's cool Jim, thanks for showing that. Bob

[Long Ears]

How in the world did you cut the contour on the front of that jig Jim? Bob

[westbj2]

Bob,

I cut a lot of the material (O-1) off in the mill and filed he remainder.   You can't see in the picture but there is also a slight taper to one side as in the forend shape of a double gun.   When I made this tool I looked at a number of good original guns and noted he dual angles. 
Another thing you might miss in the pictures are the shoulders cut into the fixture so that it rests on top of the vise jaws....this keeps the thing from sliding down when you are hammering on the head.  I like to heat the head area to bright red and then do the shaping, usually takes 5-6 heats as the small area cools rapidly.

Jim

[draken]

This is probably a dumb question and I hope I'm not going off-topic here, but what holds the key in place?  Being wedge-shaped, wouldn't they have a tendency to back out?

[Long Ears]

Jim, I did notice the shoulder that set on top of the vice. As a matter of fact I made a much smaller jig for forming heads on screws and nails. I went out right after seeing yours and milled that shoulder on mine. Great job again and thanks for sharing. This forum is great. Bob

[Joe S.]

This is probably a dumb question and I hope I'm not going off-topic here, but what holds the key in place?  Being wedge-shaped, wouldn't they have a tendency to back out?

no expert and this is my first go round with wedge keys but the term wedge is misleading.The key has a thickness same from front the front to end,no wedge shape.it's held in place by the stock and loop. mine are tight and reguire they be tapped into place and also removed via drift with same tap.They are sure to loosen with time and use,a simple tap on the bottom of loop will fix that.Capture pins can also be used to help secure keys from being lost also.