What tool do you use to cut the narrow lines for ramrod pipe beads?

[Jerry V Lape]

I am not satisfied with what I am using to cut the narrow lines between beads.  And I am currently working on an historic builder's style which has a very narrow line to set off the bead.  The 60 degree triangular needle file seems too wide.  Or maybe I am just going too deep with it.  The examples of the original appear to have a V shape where it runs out at the top but it doesn't look like the 60 degrees produced by the various files I have.  Could it be a knife  or specialized chisel was used - tapped in with a light hammer?

[Acer Saccharum]

Most original pipes I've seen are paper thin brass, and the beads at the end are definitely formed. This adds tremendous strength and rigidity to an otherwise flimsy pipe.

a simple forming die and punches will do the trick. Did Rase once post his tooling for this kind of work?

[Dave B]

Here is a topic from the tutorial section that has some great info on others methods for forming the grooves and beads on rod thimbles. http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=687.0

[P.W.Berkuta]

I have a few small Swiss files in these shapes – web & cant files - have a look on the web for their shape.
Web saw files have a diamond-shaped cross section, similar to two cant saw files with their flat faces aligned.
Cant saw files have a triangular cross section with one side longer than the other two.

[Jerry V Lape]

Acer I am familiar with Rase's punch and mold post.  However that doesn't seem to be how these pipes were formed.  Note the v shaped at the end of the groove. They are simple looking pipes but that small groove has been thwarting my efforts so far.


I will have to look at these other tools mentions above.
 

[flehto]

For very narrow grooves I use a double edged needle file that's got  a 10-15 degree included angle ....never measured the angle but it looks like 10-15. Got these when in the toolroom...Fred

[pushboater]

Just thinking off the top of my head, but couldn't you cut them in with a graver before you formed the pipes? Just a thought.

Capt. David

[davec2]

The thread that Dave B shows above has a bunch of good info and methods.  I posted the following as part of that thread.  The shape of the beading on the ends can be controlled easily by the shape of the punches used to make them.......

I like the thin look as well.  I made these pipes back in high school 35 years ago from commercial brass tubing.  I cut the tube to length and poured it full of lead.  The flats and rings were hammered into place with very small punches and then the lead was melted out.  The tabs were then silver soldered in place on the back side of the pipe.  The rear pipe was made the same way, but with the skirt silver soldered on as well.  This is much the same as Dave B's method, but, with the lead, you don't need the mandrels.

[FDR]

I would probably use a jeweler's saw. They make a variety of blades depending on the grove width you want.

[Mark Elliott]

Jerry,

I think what you are looking at is the shadow of the groove that was once there.   I would just cut a shallow line with a triangular file to form a very narrow and small bead.   JMHO.

[David Rase]

I would probably use a jeweler's saw. They make a variety of blades depending on the grove width you want.

I concur with using the jewelers saw.  Freddie Harrison showed me how to use the jewelers saw on pipes, triggerguard extensions and buttplate returns years ago. 

[Jerry V Lape]

I bought the jeweler's saw and have used it to make the initial cuts forming rings on pipes.  Really works well.  Only a couple minutes per ring to have a groove of proper depth and if a wider groove is needed the saw cut provides a secure starting point for needle file work.  Much greater control than I had with files alone.