Blank work

[FlintFan]

What is the preferred tool for removing the plug? Well fitted adjustable wrencg?

The more important tool is using a quality vise to hold the barrel.  A $30, economy bench vise is rarely going to cut it.  The barrel will invariably twist in the jaws, and terribly gouge the corners of the barrel flats. If you have to use a bench vise, it is very wise to make some sort of fitted jaws like those that were pictured in one of the posts above. 

The best vise I have every used for holding a barrel while removing a plug is a machinist's mill vise, bolted down to the bed of a mill.  They have zero backlash when tightened, and when lined with brass or copper shims will not mark a barrel in anyway.  If you know of anyone with such a set up, it would be worth seeing if you could use it. 

[Jim Kibler]

I will second the comment that this process is not necessary with a Rice barrel.  Jason does a super job of fitting up the breeches.  It is not necessary to check and those without experience might find the process difficult if they don't have the right tools.

Jim

[Uncle Alvah]

Hope that helps,

Certainly does!

[Ky-Flinter]

When you receive the barrel and stock back you'll want to draw file the barrel and take it to whatever degree of finish you intend.

Hi Dave,

Your reply had a lot of good info, but I disagree with the comment above.  I believe draw filing of the barrel should be done before sending the barrel and stock for inletting.

-Ron

[conquerordie]

I've always just draw filed the top half or so of the barrel that is exposed. This way the barrel inlet/ barrel fit isn't disturbed. Just a thought,
Greg

[sz]

Uncle Alva, I sent you an e-mail that I hope is helpful to you.

[PPatch]

When you receive the barrel and stock back you'll want to draw file the barrel and take it to whatever degree of finish you intend.

Hi Dave,

Your reply had a lot of good info, but I disagree with the comment above.  I believe draw filing of the barrel should be done before sending the barrel and stock for inletting.

-Ron

Good point Ron, makes sense and point taken (Alva you see this?). I've never sent one off for inletting so what do I know. ADD: now that I think on it I always draw file the barrel before inletting it, duh...  

Also, Alva - as someone mentioned - draw file the top five flats, that is the usual procedure.

dave

[Bob Roller]

Rarely do I unbreech a barrel but the idea of a heavy duty milling machine vise bolted to bed of the mill seems
like a good idea.I'll use it should the need arise.One the other side of that coin,I see NO reason to have a breech plug so tight
that it takes special measures to unseat it.

Bob Roller

[Herb]

Colerain doesn't properly fit their plugs in my experience. The last Colerain barrel I used, with a factory fitted plug, the plug wasn't making any contact with breech face.

Rice barrel plugs are fitted correctly.

This is also my experience in building over 50 rifles.

[Dennis Glazener]

Quote from: PPatch on November 25, 2016, 05:00:21 PM
When you receive the barrel and stock back you'll want to draw file the barrel and take it to whatever degree of finish you intend.

Hi Dave,
Your reply had a lot of good info, but I disagree with the comment above.  I believe draw filing of the barrel should be done before sending the barrel and stock for inletting.
-Ron

I do not draw file my Rice Barrels before they are inlet. Mark Weader inlets  them so tight that I want to loosen them up before I finish the gun. Draw filing them makes them easier to remove from the stock channel.
Dennis

[Gaeckle]

Colerain doesn't properly fit their plugs in my experience. The last Colerain barrel I used, with a factory fitted plug, the plug wasn't making any contact with breech face.

Rice barrel plugs are fitted correctly.

This is also my experience in building over 50 rifles.

......same here.........

[Acer Saccharum]

Always check the plug fit BEFORE you inlet the barrel. On some barrels the plug face is 1/16" shy of the bore. This is not unsafe, in my opinion, but makes the barrel a chore to clean. If you don't know there is a fouling trap at the plug, likely you will have corrosion begin in short order.

If you do need to fix a gap at the plug, best to do it before you have the barrel inlet. The barrel may end up at a different flat by the time you get the plug seated properly.

While the plug is out, it's a good time to run a patched ball down the bore to make sure it doesn't have loose spots at the muzzle, rough machining marks, etc. If find bad spots, and you haven't made any cuts on the barrel, it's easier to return it to the manufacturer.

[Uncle Alvah]

you'll want to draw file the barrel and take it to whatever degree of finish you intend.

At the risk of sounding foolish, it looks pretty good to me as it is.

[WadePatton]

you'll want to draw file the barrel and take it to whatever degree of finish you intend.

At the risk of sounding foolish, it looks pretty good to me as it is.

The Colerains I've used weren't too bad, but they definitely need filing out.  If you're new to draw filing (I push mostly, but is the act of using the file side-wise or contrary to its length), start on the bottom three flats to get a feel for it.  Then file out the five flats that will be exposed.

This shouldn't significantly change any dimension of the bbl.  You might find some dings and flaws and probably should get rid of the machined surface.  I don't leave any machined or cast surface unfiled.  Forgings were filed, and unfiled items point unerringly to modern production in my mind-and look unfinished to me. 

So I file a lot.