rottenstone polishing

[Whaleman]

On my Hawken I used Chambers oil finish. After shooting and hunting (unsuccessfully) with it I have some small dings that seem to show. I made a topic on wood hardening and all the experts said my stock was too shiny and needed to be rubbed to a more satin finish and some will not show anymore. Most suggested rottenstone. I now have rottenstone. I did a search and some say use water and a rag some say use a felt pad and mineral oil and some say mineral oil and a toothbrush. Some have said use a 1/2" felt pad that I have no idea where to get. I just want to knock a little gloss off the stock and soften the finish. Before I attack it I just wanted to ask which is the easiest and safest way? Thank You,Dan

[Scota4570]

A piece of clean rag will do.  Use linseed oil cut with thinner.  Don't use water.  Rottenstone is super fine.  It will remain glossy.  Maybe try some pumice powder the same way. 

I just did a lacquered antique radio cabinet with pumice and lemon oil.  It came out satin.  IF want more gloss I'd wax it before I polished it to a higer gloss. Super high mile deep pianotype finish shows every imperfection unless you do 10X the work. I don't have patience for that. 

Lots of ways to do this kind of thing.  Experiment and see what you get. 

[Nate McKenzie]

I have used Birchwood Casey's Rubbing Compound successfully for this. It is a petroleum distillate with pumice. Just rub it on and wipe or rinse it off.

[smart dog]

Hi Whaleman,
I use rottenstone or pumice (which is a little coarser) lubricated with thinned linseed oil.  I have an old piece of 1/2" thick high density foam that I used as pad for my sleeping bag. I cut a 1" by 5/8" rectangle of foam from the pad and wrap a thin clean piece of rag around it tightly. I want the bottom of the wrap to be flat to create a "rubber". I then dip the rubber in the oil and then the rottenstone or pumice to create a slurry and rub the stock. Do not press too hard and use plenty of oil.  Be careful of sharp corners so you don't rub off the finish.  Afterwards, clean the stock off with a rag.  You can also use a tooth brush to rub into tight corners around carvings and moldings.

dave 

[flehto]

Or use a finish that isn't so shiny? Shown below is a finish as applied.....Fred

[n stephenson]

Fred , If you don`t mind , what is this finish?. I also use the birchwood casey stock sheen and conditioner . I`ve had good luck with it.

[t.caster]

I just used rotten stone on my latest rifle yesterday! I also used LMF Permalyn finish over 3 coats of there sealer. I use a small patch cut from an old wool sock or wool blanket scraps, soaked in old polymerized Linseed oil produced in the 50s and dipped in the rotten stone. It doesn't have to be wool, terrycloth or flannel work good too. You don't need to rub hard, but use long strokes. Wipe it off with several soft cloth rags and re-coat with straight linseed oil. You can also tint the LO with artists oil paints if you want a little more color or darkness. I use either black or crimson depending on the final look I am going for. I usually apply 3 or 4 more coats of LO, either tinted or clear for a nice smooth, soft (not shiny) look.
Good luck,
Tom C

[smallpatch]

Chambers oil will give that finish with ease.

[P.W.Berkuta]

I use a slurry of rottenstone & water applied with a large pad of cottonball encased in a square of nylon stocking to prevent the cotton fibers from coming out onto the work. I use this also to apply my finish most of the time. Somewhat like applying a "French Polish" job. I don't like using an oil as my vehicle with the rottenstone because it is easer to remove water than an oil from the stock - but the oil will allow the pad to "glide" on the stock surface quite easily. I've not had much luck with pumice maybe because my pumice was too coarse of a grade which cut the finish very fast.

[PPatch]

I've been doing this style of finish for ages. I do it basically the way Smart Dog  described above with the homemade rubbing pad, but I use mineral oil as my lube. One of the things you are doing is leveling the surface, another is taking out swirl marks, and it takes almost no pressure to do so as the rottenstone will cut without you manhandling it. I rub in overlapping circles. You must allow the finish to completely dry before doing the process. If you see any sign of sticky gummy finish building under the pad - stop - allow more drying time then try again. The resulting finish will be a pleasing sateen.

Last week I began a stock using Chambers oil - after the first heavy coat I allowed it to completely dry (in this case a couple of days), since then I have given the stock a couple of very thin coats using only my finger to rub on the oil a few square inches at a time. The last couple of coats will be rubbed down using the pad and rottenstone. Generally it takes 7-10 oil coats to obtain a decent sateen finish, it takes about a month, or more, with all the drying time between coats. Once it is all done give the stock a good waxing.

dave

[Daryl]

I've used Pumice and Rottenstone dry - no oil. Wipe it off afterwards - dulls the finish nicely.  Too - used carefully, 0000 steel wool will about do the same job of softening the shine and more quickly. Don't get carried away.

[flehto]

n Stephenson....2-3 wipe on/wipe off coats of LMF sealer w/ a complete dry between coats. Soak in time is 5-10 minute depending on how fast the sealer starts to set up...should be checked often. When the last coat is completely dry, a hard rub w/ 0000 steel wool removes any surface sealer and  smoothes  the surface.

2-3 coats of Wahkon Bay Trucoat applied very  sparingly w/ the fingers in a small area and I start at the butt and move forward. When completely dry, there will be some shine which disappears in a couple of hrs. The sheen shown on the previous LR was brought out using a fluffy towel as was the LR shown below....Fred



 

[Daryl]

Fred - that is a nice finish & well executed!

[Whaleman]

Thank all of you for taking the time to respond. I appreciate it. Dan

[Chowmi]

Last week I began a stock using Chambers oil - after the first heavy coat I allowed it to completely dry (in this case a couple of days), since then I have given the stock a couple of very thin coats using only my finger to rub on the oil a few square inches at a time. The last couple of coats will be rubbed down using the pad and rottenstone. Generally it takes 7-10 oil coats to obtain a decent sateen finish, it takes about a month, or more, with all the drying time between coats. Once it is all done give the stock a good waxing.

dave

Dave,
Has finger rubbing Chamber's Oil worked for you in the past?  I ask because I just did that for 2 coats with Chamber's Oil and got some streaking and fingerprints.  I had done two coats of Permalyn Sealer, then one heavy coat of Chamber's Oil, wiped off.  Then, the two finger rubbed coats of Chamber's Oil. 
I got a response on another thread that Chamber's Oil should only be used wipe-on wipe-off. 

I've rubbed some of the streaks back with 0000 steel wool and mineral oil.  I'm also wondering if a few more coats of chamber's oil will help to subdue the streaks. 
If hand rubbing chamber's oil has worked for you, I'd be interested to hear it.

cheers,
Norm

[PPatch]

Last week I began a stock using Chambers oil - after the first heavy coat I allowed it to completely dry (in this case a couple of days), since then I have given the stock a couple of very thin coats using only my finger to rub on the oil a few square inches at a time. The last couple of coats will be rubbed down using the pad and rottenstone. Generally it takes 7-10 oil coats to obtain a decent sateen finish, it takes about a month, or more, with all the drying time between coats. Once it is all done give the stock a good waxing.

dave

Dave,
Has finger rubbing Chamber's Oil worked for you in the past?  I ask because I just did that for 2 coats with Chamber's Oil and got some streaking and fingerprints.  I had done two coats of Permalyn Sealer, then one heavy coat of Chamber's Oil, wiped off.  Then, the two finger rubbed coats of Chamber's Oil. 
I got a response on another thread that Chamber's Oil should only be used wipe-on wipe-off. 

I've rubbed some of the streaks back with 0000 steel wool and mineral oil.  I'm also wondering if a few more coats of chamber's oil will help to subdue the streaks. 
If hand rubbing chamber's oil has worked for you, I'd be interested to hear it.

cheers,
Norm

Norm;

I too get the finger swirls. in my experience they are impossible to avoid (and fingerprints too if I'm not careful). I don't worry about them because the next coat will remove them, and leave others in their place... 

It is the rottenstone with the lubed pad treatment that levels everything and leaves a soft looking, smooth surface. I usually do the rottenstone twice with a coat of oil in between. Rarely, I'll go three rounds. You finish with the rottenstone and pad, no oil applied after that, thus no swirls. You then wax the stock, usually several times.



dave

[Whaleman]

PPatch, If I have already waxed the stock what do I need to do if I want do do the rottenstone polish and then another coat of Chambers and another rottenstone polish? What will take the wax off but not hurt the finish? Thanks Dan

[PPatch]

Whaleman;

What finish do you currently have on the stock? Some mineral spirits would remove the wax - test it before using.

dave

[Whaleman]

Chambers oil finish

[Mauser06]

I actually used rottenstone to rub out my finish BETWEEN coats of Chamber's oil.


I used a cotton ball and water with a tiny drop of dish soap. (supposed to help lubricate a bit).


I didn't want to use any kind of oils being it was before coats.


After I was done damp paper towels wiped off the mess...I then of course had to let the water dry...but a dehumidifier with a fan made quick work of that...



Right...wrong..I don't know. I like it.





I'd went to something like a high satin.  Not a flat but not a gloss...

[Whaleman]

That looks very nice Mauser06. Dan

[PPatch]

Chambers oil finish

Then mineral spirits is that oil's natural thinner, so you'll have to use something else to remove the wax, otherwise the finish will come right off. I would use something water based, probably a household cleaner.

dave

 

[Whaleman]

Thank You Dave, Dan

[PPatch]

You bet Dan, glad I could assist. Good luck with your project and post some pix if you wish to. Note that one of the tricks is to only apply a very thin coat of oil and to be sure it is completely dry before applying another or working with the rottenstone technique.

dave