a finish repair question please

[Turtle]

 When I applied permylin to my latest build about 6 mo ago, I wanted a glossy varnish like finish. So for the first time I wiped finish on with a dauber rather than hand rubbing as I always had. The resulting finish has texture, we used to call it orangepeal when I painted cars.
Can I fine sand or steel wool it smoth and hand rub a few coats of finish to get it a smooth finish? If using sandpaper should I use a backer pad of some kind?
                                      Thanks,Turtle

[Daryl]

I think the nicest gloss finish is found using True Oil, Tung oil or Linspeed Oil. Rubed in thin coats and lots of them. Sand back to the top surface of the wood(don't sand wood) every 6 or 7 coats, then once all the pores are filled, 3 really thin coats - polish with a rouge paste and you have a Grande Piano finish.

[Keithbatt]

When I applied permylin to my latest build about 6 mo ago, I wanted a glossy varnish like finish. So for the first time I wiped finish on with a dauber rather than hand rubbing as I always had. The resulting finish has texture, we used to call it orangepeal when I painted cars.
Can I fine sand or steel wool it smoth and hand rub a few coats of finish to get it a smooth finish? If using sandpaper should I use a backer pad of some kind?
                                      Thanks,Turtle

Not speaking from great experience. But I've been endlessly experimenting with finish technique on axe handles. It's nice having a beautiful axe.

I have used tung oil with good results but not a super shiny varnished look. I am using real, pure tung oil.

I have had a much more shiny varnished look with permalyn. I have absolutely had success rubbing back both tung oil and permalyn using a combination of scotchbrite, steel wool, and rottenstone. You can knock it back and build it back up as you please. Let any new applications dry completely. 

I would absolutely recommend experimenting. It's fun and you can learn how to get the finish you want.

Keith

[Don Steele]

I think the nicest gloss finish is found using True Oil, Tung oil or Linspeed Oil. Rubed in thin coats and lots of them. Sand back to the top surface of the wood(don't sand wood) every 6 or 7 coats, then once all the pores are filled, 3 really thin coats - polish with a rouge paste and you have a Grande Piano finish.

Daryl, Thanks for the suggestion.
I'd love to get something even close to a Grande Piano finish on my rifle. Currently she's carrying a number of coats of True Oil only, just hand rubbed on and "buffed" a bit with a terry cloth towel.
What sandpaper are you using, and can you get a little more specific about the "rouge paste" material and technique. I went to my friend Google and got lost in polishing world, and makeup store links.
Thanks again.

[Turtle]

Thanks guys, but what I want to do is level the existing finish and recoat with some hand rubbed coats. Is this possible? will the new permylin adhere to the old finish? should I use #400 sandpaper or steel wool?
                            Turtle

[Kevin Houlihan]

Turtle,
I would smooth the finish with a scrotchbrite pad. Then you should be able to hand rub on more Permalyn without any problems.
Kevin

[Ed Wenger]

I wouldn't hand rub Permalyn...  To answer your question, I'd say "yes", you could fine sand the existing finish to smooth things out.

You didn't mention whether you used Permalyn finish or sealer, but I would recommend using sealer.  Permaly sealer is just thinned Permaly finish.  Soak a piece of t-shirt type cloth (about 3"x3") with sealer and simply wipe it on the stock.  It should take about two minutes to do the entire stock.  Make sure there's no "runs" anywhere, and set it aside to dry.  Depending on humity levels, it should be dry in 3 - 5 hours.  Repeat until you have the desired results.  The Permalyn will also build up in any texture as well.


           Ed

[FDR]

To get the best final finish with either Tru Oil or Permalyn I thin the final finish with some mineral spirits. The thinned finish levels out better and gives you a slightly longer working time. The Permalyn sealer is nothing more that regular Permalyn that has been thinned.
The easy way to fill wood pores is to give the stock a couple coats of "Waterlox" Original, sand/rub back to the wood then start your oil finish. If done properly you can produce a "London Best" grade oil finish without having to apply multiple coats of  oil  just to fill the pores.

Fred