Draw filing swamped barrel

[Uncle Alvah]

The man who will be inletting my barrel said he would like to get the barrel with the breech plug removed and the two opposing vertical barrel flats draw-filed.
I have been reading up on draw-filing but, since I have never done it, am interested in any advice or whatever you may have to offer on doing a swamped barrel in particular. The barrel is a 44" Colerain .36 A profile.
As always, many thanks!

[deepcreekdale]

It is actually very simple and if you have done some reading up on it, you are ready. A few pointers, don't put excess pressure on the file while you work using long even strokes and keep the file teeth as clean as you can. The larger the file, the better I find also. Years ago, my grandfather taught me to file with the advice that a file is a cutting tool, not an abrasive. I find draw filing relaxing and almost zen like. With a nice, sharp clean file, after you get the hang of it, a barrel can be completely draw filed, to a surface ready for finishing, in less than a half hour. You are not removing that much metal, just trying to remove the machine marks. After construction is complete and before finishing the metal, I always go back over the barrel lightly, there are always a few scratches and dings that need removed.

[Bob Roller]

Today it's hard to find a really sharp file. If you have one,I would use some
threading fluid like tapmatic or other threading fluid while filing. It helps with
a finished surface.

Bob Roller

[pushboater]

Another thing that helps me is to grasp the file up close on either side of the barrel. I find that the file stays flatter on the work piece and you have better control. If you grasp the file out too wide on either side of the barrel I have a tendency to rock it from end to end and I can't keep a level cut. It's fairly easy, just practice a little on a piece of scrap before you start and you'll do fine.

David

[PPatch]

All good solid advice above uncle A.

If you are pulling the file toward you, which is what I do (some push it), the tang will be to your left. Place the file gently on the barrel surface, position your fingers close in to the file, ready... Now let the file do the work, there is zero need to press it to the surface but lightly. At the end of the stoke be lifting the file and remove it deftly. Repeat, but...

Try and not allow any filings to come between the barrel and file, so clean both before doing the next stroke. I do. I just use a brush to sweep the file and barrel. Be checking that file for clogs regularly and remove them with a wire file carder.

Once you are into it you'll develop both your technique and be in the swing of things, have a rhythm.

I'd do the top five flats before sending it off. Once it returns you can take the barrel surface to whatever finish you desire using emery paper backed by something solid, oil helps and causes the paper to last longer.

have all the fun

dave

[David Rase]

I have been using a Simonds flat 10" multi-kut file for sever years now and like it very much.  The diamond pattern design allows a lot of space between the teeth which helps keep the file from loading up.  I still get into a routine where I file a few strokes then tap the edge of the file on my vise to knock the shavings out.
David 

[PPatch]

 

I have been using a Simonds flat 10" multi-kut file for sever years now and like it very much.  The diamond pattern design allows a lot of space between the teeth which helps keep the file from loading up.  I still get into a routine where I file a few strokes then tap the edge of the file on my vise to knock the shavings out.
David 

Dave;

I see those Simond's files for sale on eBay by the box. I've almost purchased some but was reluctant because I am not familiar with that brand - although the name rings a bell.

Back to your filing Alvah... 

dave

[westbj2]

Britts have tools in the barrel finishing area called a barrel striking files.  Below is a picture of one from a shop in the UK that a friend sent to me.
The advantage of these is that you can keep a substantial amount of the file on the work because you are using them the "long" way thus avoiding waves and ripples.  I made mine using an 8" mill bastard file and cut the tang off.   You also need to ease and polish the ends of the file so that they don't gouge the work.  When working on a swamped barrel you simply loosen the mounting screws and put a paper shim in the middle of the tool.  Upon tightening the screws a belly is created in the middle of the file.  This configuration allows you to approach the swamp area and work right thru because the file will not dig in or gouge.
I also have a 6" piece of a 14" long angle lathe file that that works well on non swamped barrels.
Keep the file clean and use a light oil lubricant or kerosene.
Jim

[PPatch]

Brillant ! I shall make a couple of those westbj2.

dp

[L. Akers]

I have been using a 12" Simonds flat smooth file to draw file barrels.  Tang in your left hand if you want to draw it toward your body; tang in your right hand if you want to push it away from your body.  Shavings will be long and twisted--like steel wool.

[RichG]

if your having a hard time keeping the flats flat, try rubbing a black felt pen on the flat your filing. first couple of barrels I filed it helped. with a little practice it's easy. also when using a file , watch what the file is doing not the file.

[Bob Roller]

I have been using a Simonds flat 10" multi-kut file for sever years now and like it very much.  The diamond pattern design allows a lot of space between the teeth which helps keep the file from loading up.  I still get into a routine where I file a few strokes then tap the edge of the file on my vise to knock the shavings out.
David 

Dave;

I see those Simond's files for sale on eBay by the box. I've almost purchased some but was reluctant because I am not familiar with that brand - although the name rings a bell.

Back to your filing Alvah... 

dave

If they are the AMERICAN made Simonds they will be fine. New Old Stock. If not they may or may not be any good.
I have seen regular mill files,new ones that come out of the package already worn out from lack of quality control.
If you draw file with the multi cut file,use lighter pressure and as mentioned,hold your hands close to the barrel and'get a "feel"
of how it works,

Bob Roller

[hudson]

Once up upon a time long long ago my shop teacher said use chalk on your file. It has worked well for maany years.