My parts kit arrived today!

[Wolfshead]

My wife scheduled a pick up for some things that she had sold on eBay for this afternoon.
When I got home from work her boxes were waiting on the front porch for the mailman.
He usually will walk the mail up to be delivered and then grab the boxes that are to be picked up.
Along about 4 pm the doorbell rings and sure enough it is our mailman. So I open the door to collect the mail and there's this long tall box from Jim Chambers along with a few envelopes.


To say I was excited would be an understatement!
Laid the box on the counter and it was in great condition for traveling in the US Mail.



Opened the box



Laid out the other contents







I would be lying if I said I wasn't just a little bit intimidated, but I am also very excited.
I'll try and keep you posted with my mistakes and hopefully my (more) successes and many many questions.

Doug

[Mark Elliott]

I know you are excited, but slow down and take your time.     

[A.Merrill]

   Welcome to your new addiction.  I hope you bought how to book's, you will need 1 or 2 of them. Take your time, don't rush thing's.  On a kit like that finish inlaying the lock first, then inlay the barrel. Good luck.    Al

[smylee grouch]

There will be a lot of mixed feelings as you have already said. Excitement, intimidation, and more. Have fun and ask questions if in question.

[Jim Chambers]

Doug,
Barbie and I are very glad to hear the kit arrived in good condition and that you are excited about building it.  I know it can be intimidating, but, as others have said, take your time,  think things thru, and if you have any questions please don't hesitate to call us.  We're always glad to help.
Jim C.

[Chowmi]

Doug,
That's a beautiful kit and will make a great rifle.  I know the feeling you must have. 
I am soon ready to inlet the patchbox on a similar Chamber's kit, then do some carving and maybe some engraving.  I got mine more than 3 years ago, but have done other guns in the meantime.  Although mine isn't finished, it's all assembled minus the patchbox, and I pick it up and sight down the barrel all the time waiting for the day I get to shoot it.

Congrats, and keep us posted on your build.

Cheers,
Norm

[Darkhorse]

Think about getting a couple of DVD's on building from a kit. I think they will help you more than a book. I got the one by Tom Turpin way back when it came in VHS. I see now they also have one by Ron Elhert. There is just something about seeing it done that got through to me more than trying to relate to a book that is not written for kits to begin with.
The only thing about the Turpin video I didn't like was how he demonstrated finishing the wood. There is a whole lot more to doing it right for the best results than what he did.

[SingleMalt]

Building your first rifle is like eating an elephant. One bite at a time.

[thecapgunkid]

Jim Turpin/Hershel House DVD's and Chuck Dixon's Big Blue Book will make a great difference.  Also, nine times out of ten the mistakes you make will be because you rushed something.  In the dictionary next to "Rushing Something" it says..."See thecapgunkid"

Make sure all your chisels are sharp

Get a level to work with your drill

Chambers Kits are so well crafted and close that having a scraper is better than risking an errant cut with a chisel

Bevel your metal parts before inletting.  Works every time

Use the forum, budget for some more of the RIGHT tools

EVERYBODY makes mistakes. 


Hope you have as much fun as the rest of us.

Don't shoot yore eye out, kid

The Capgun Kid

[Wolfshead]

Thank you all for your comments, they are greatly appreciated.
I fully intend to go slow. (I know, I know, "The best laid plans....")
I have been considering an assembly for years now, so I have been "collecting" my references so to speak.
Here are my DVDs



And these are my books



So I believe I am good in this aspect and along with all of your knowledge and advice I hope to turn out something presentable.

[n stephenson]

Doug, You`ll do fine. There is plenty of good support on here to answer any questions that arise.Sharp tools and take your time . After seeing the horn you made, it`s evident you have some skills.Keep us posted!!                                        Thanks Nathan

[moleeyes36]

Building your first rifle is like eating an elephant. One bite at a time.

Building your first rifle is also like eating a Lay's potato chip, you can't stop at just one.   

Mole Eyes

[Treebeard]

   Welcome to your new addiction.  I hope you bought how to book's, you will need 1 or 2 of them. Take your time, don't rush thing's.  On a kit like that finish inlaying the lock first, then inlay the barrel. Good luck.    Al

I also wil be starting a build from a partial kit consisting of the lock, pre inlet stock and barrel.
The comment about inlaying the lock first caught my attention as I believe in The  Gunsmith Of Grenville County he works from a raw stock blank and inlets the barrel first. Are the pre inlet stock kits   Requiring a different order of inletting?

[Eric Krewson]

Barrel in first is the way to go. You need to be able to inlet your lock so the pan it lines up with the touch hole, you won't know where that will be until your barrel is in and pinned.

[John Archer]

I'm with Al Merrill on this....lock in first.
The mortice is already set in and there is precious little 'wiggle room' to move the lock around. The barrel can be set back or lower to line up the area for the touchhole with the pan.

John.

[flinchrocket]

Me 3,  I think the problem will be that if your barrel is in the stock and pinned with the lock mortise already cut you will have little room to move it,if needed. If you install the barrel without the breechplug and the touch hole marked then install the lock with the barrel clamped in the stock. If you need to move the barrel back or down after the lock is in then you can, forward or up will have to be bedded,but that is unlikely to the case.

[Darkhorse]

The first thing I do is measure where the end of the breech plug is from  the front of the barrell, using the ramrod and mark it with a felt pen. Now you can compare exactly where it is in relationship to your lock mortise and get an idea of what  you need to do.

[Eric Krewson]

Oops, senior moment, I forgot about the lock mortise already in place in the precarve. I have things backward. 

[Marcruger]

I am sure you will have a wonderful time learning to build.  Take lots of pictures and share with us as you go along.  One day I may do the same. 

You certainly bought from a wonderful family, and I know Jim will help you out if you have questions.  He's a super guy. 

Best wishes,  Marc

[ltdann]

I'm with Al Merrill on this....lock in first.
The mortice is already set in and there is precious little 'wiggle room' to move the lock around. The barrel can be set back or lower to line up the area for the touchhole with the pan.

John.

all,

If the barrel needs to move back or forward a little, say 1/8", won't that leave some gaps on the pre-carved swamped barrel inlet?  These are the questions that keep me up at night.....

Dan

[n stephenson]

All the more reasons to learn to build from a blank. Most of the time I can build a gun quicker from a stick than I can chasing a bunch of this and that on a kit.     Thanks Nathan

[Ky-Flinter]

If the barrel needs to move back or forward a little, say 1/8", won't that leave some gaps on the pre-carved swamped barrel inlet?  These are the questions that keep me up at night....

If you only move the barrel 1/8" or so, any gaps won't be noticeable.  If they are, save some shavings off the stock and glue them in the gap.  You need to learn how to do that anyway.

-Ron

[Treebeard]

If the barrel needs to move back or forward a little, say 1/8", won't that leave some gaps on the pre-carved swamped barrel inlet?  These are the questions that keep me up at night....

If you only move the barrel 1/8" or so, any gaps won't be noticeable.  If they are, save some shavings off the stock and glue the, in the gap.  You need to learn how to do that anyway.

-Ron

My thanks to Wolfshead for starting this topic as this issue of touch hole alignment is now front and center in my thinking. I will be sure to save the shavings for use if I need to fill gaps.

[axelp]

I have been a lurker here for many many years. I am not a builder, just a flintlock shooter --and an artist who admires the craft and skills involved in building a long rifle. I am thrilled to witness the support, patient mentoring and friendship that occurs on this message board-- especially in recent years. The encouragement for newbies, the help when guys get painted into a corner... all of it is such a breath of fresh air in the crazy times we currently live in. I have worked with Jim and Barbie, both with their kits and on non-hobby projects, and they are just great people. But if you have spent more than five minutes on this message board you already know that.

And then we have all of the skilled craftsmen that chime in to help for no other reason that the love of the hobby. Excellent.

Ken Prather

[Wolfshead]

all,

If the barrel needs to move back or forward a little, say 1/8", won't that leave some gaps on the pre-carved swamped barrel inlet?  These are the questions that keep me up at night.....

Dan
[/quote]

This too is causing me some concern....
So let's say I inlet the lock first and it does not rest against tight against the barrel....?
I have just been looking at the stock and the lock, and have not done anything as of yet, but this is going to make my nights a little less restful so to speak!
I mean both the kit videos I have do the barrel first, so now I am really nervous!
I would greatly appreciate more on this (PLEASE!)