Author Topic: Tomahawk Steel question  (Read 3807 times)

Offline SCLoyalist

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Tomahawk Steel question
« on: January 23, 2017, 06:10:30 PM »
How good or bad would type A2 steel be for a tomahawk head?  I saw a 'hawk for sale, forged from a piece of A2 steel, and just wondered.    Thanks, SCL

steveA

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Re: Tomahawk Steel question
« Reply #1 on: January 23, 2017, 08:19:06 PM »
No claims on my part to being an expert but....air hardening (A2) is a fine steel and at the proper heat treat/temper would make a good hawk. 

Offline Canute Rex

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Re: Tomahawk Steel question
« Reply #2 on: January 23, 2017, 09:13:42 PM »
With A2, proper heat treating is not trivial. The maker would really need a kiln with a digital temperature control to do it properly. I don't know if you can find this out, but I'd recommend that you ask.

I got my hands on some A2 and I'm not doing anything with it until I get a kiln set up.

Offline SCLoyalist

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Re: Tomahawk Steel question
« Reply #3 on: January 24, 2017, 02:06:21 AM »
The description of the manufacture is hand-forged, "heated to dark orange and quenched in motor oil."

Right now, I'm mainly just curious since I seldom see A2 steel listed in the descriptions of knives and hawks. 




Offline Bob Roller

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Re: Tomahawk Steel question
« Reply #4 on: January 24, 2017, 02:58:42 AM »
How good or bad would type A2 steel be for a tomahawk head?  I saw a 'hawk for sale, forged from a piece of A2 steel, and just wondered.    Thanks, SCL

It's an air hardening steel.It's expensive. The catalog I'm looking at says a piece that's 1-3/4x 1/4x36 is $110.89
 Bob Roller

boman

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Re: Tomahawk Steel question
« Reply #5 on: January 24, 2017, 07:01:14 AM »
I have no idea why a guy would use a high quality tool steel for a tomahawk. a question best put to the maker I suppose.  A2 would make a good tomahawk head. If he heated it in a forge and oil quenched as described he got it hard but how hard would be the question. A sharp edge on the face might break if its too hard. For my purposes I would want to draw the temper, at least on the face. As Bob pointed out tool steel can be expensive and I personally would use 5160 or just a plain carbon 1075-1080 for a forged tomahawk that will hold and edge and be used in camp or for throwing. Beaver Bill (who makes some really authentic, high quality looking tomahawks, uses gun barrels (12L14). This stuff won't even harden. Then again, most of his customers use them for display I would guess.

Just my thoughts---Steve

Offline Bob Roller

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Re: Tomahawk Steel question
« Reply #6 on: January 24, 2017, 04:18:54 PM »
I have no idea why a guy would use a high quality tool steel for a tomahawk. a question best put to the maker I suppose.  A2 would make a good tomahawk head. If he heated it in a forge and oil quenched as described he got it hard but how hard would be the question. A sharp edge on the face might break if its too hard. For my purposes I would want to draw the temper, at least on the face. As Bob pointed out tool steel can be expensive and I personally would use 5160 or just a plain carbon 1075-1080 for a forged tomahawk that will hold and edge and be used in camp or for throwing. Beaver Bill (who makes some really authentic, high quality looking tomahawks, uses gun barrels (12L14). This stuff won't even harden. Then again, most of his customers use them for display I would guess.

Just my thoughts---Steve

It's not oil hardening. Heat it up red hot and let it cool or so I've been told.
I've never used it and 0-1 has sufficed for all I ever needed in carbon steel.
For a "hawk" I'd think 1018 would be more that adequate and the edge could
be case hardened if need be.Years ago I had a T/C barrel that the breech plug
couldn't be turned even with a big wrench and a BIG man,6'8" and 365 pounds.
I sawed the breech off and gave the barrel to friend to make "hawks" from.

Bob Roller

Offline Canute Rex

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Re: Tomahawk Steel question
« Reply #7 on: January 24, 2017, 06:43:51 PM »
I have seen some heat treating instructions that mention oil quenching, but my point is that temperature control for A2 is precise and time consuming. You are supposed to heat it to between 1750 and 1800F, but raising it no more than 400F per hour, so a four to five hour heat. Then quench it in still air (or oil) to 150F and immediately temper to between 300 and 900F (depending on desired Rockwell hardness), soaking it for four hours.

Somehow I doubt that this guy did that. It might be ok, but it's a gamble.

Offline David R. Pennington

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Re: Tomahawk Steel question
« Reply #8 on: January 25, 2017, 04:32:40 AM »




Wrought iron from an old plow brace with a piece of an old plowshare welded in for a bit. Almost indestructable. I draw the temper just a little bit harder on these to where a file just will cut it.
VITA BREVIS- ARS LONGA

Offline conquerordie

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Re: Tomahawk Steel question
« Reply #9 on: January 25, 2017, 04:38:44 AM »
The above is an awesome hawk!
Greg

Offline Dphariss

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