Pre-Carve Wood Removal

[greymount]

What tool do you use to remove wood from the top of the barrel channel?  Do you use a plane or do you use sand paper on a block.  From looking at the task, it appears that I will have to remove about 1/2 inch of wood currently located on the barrel sides.  I would also assume that after the wood is removed, you then begin the tapering on the forestock.

[Seven]

Are you talking about the rails along the side of the barrel?  I usually use a Nicholson #49 to get it close and then move on to a finer file or rasp and then on to sand paper on a block. 
-chad

[greymount]

Yes, I am talking about the rails.  Would a planer or a rasp be better?  Finishing would be completed with sand paper.

[Jim Filipski]

Greymount I use an old Stanley finishing plane set nice and shy and peel it off a liitle at a time until I'm close. Watch the direction of the grain Sometimes you have to go down the stock on one site and up the stock on the other. Blade needs to be sharp ( shaves arm hair)!  Also use it and a smaller size one to bring down barrel channel height
Jim

[Black Hand]

Do you have a picture to illustrate your question?

[Stophel]

Saw it off.  Finish with a block plane.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

I draw a pencil line where I want the top of the forend to end up, and with a razor sharp 1/2"chisel with the grain, I pare the wood down 'til I can just see the line.  Then 80 grit abrasive cloth glued to a 12" walnut board two inches wide.  I check frequently looking lengthwise to ensure I'm not introducing sunken spots...the forend needs to be perfectly parallel with the bore.
But with 1/2" to go, I too would bandsaw off most of it.  Lay masking tape along the barrel channel so the saw doesn't chip away the inside.

[tg]

With that much wood to I would have to go hightech and use the bandsaw as well,

[Birddog6]

0ver 3/16" I would bandsaw it.  Less that that I would use a drawknife or a small block plane, with the grain til I was close to my line I have on the sides. Then a rasp, then 12" oak block with sandpaper on it.

[Ken G]

Greymount, I just did that very thing last night.   With the barrel pinned in place and tang bolt in, I penciled the line on the side of the stock.  If your stock has any up and down bow in it and you draw the line without it being secured to the barrel you run the risk of a dip or a high section later. 
As has been stated there are several ways to accomplish the task.  I get nervous when using the bandsaw so I opted to use a Nicholson #49 rasp.  You can really rip some wood with a good rasp but be very careful when you get close to the line.  If I could use a plane worth a flip I'm sure that would be my choice. 
Oh, an easy way to hunt high and low spots when you get her down close is to take a 3' or 4' metal yard stick and magic marker the edge.  Lay it next to the barrel and push it back and forth.  It will leave market on the stock rails where they are high. 

[RichardW]

If I had a band saw, that is what I would use (on the buy list).  I use a Japanese style saw with good results, finished with a small plane and scraper.

Advise scribing line on both sides of the stock when sawing. It is easy to drift off and cut into 'good' wood.  Keep your distance. You can always cut more – it is hard to add it on. Be patient

[Roger Fisher]

If I had a band saw, that is what I would use (on the buy list).  I use a Japanese style saw with good results, finished with a small plane and scraper.

Advise scribing line on both sides of the stock when sawing. It is easy to drift off and cut into 'good' wood.  Keep your distance. You can always cut more – it is hard to add it on. Be patient

Yes, I use that 'cut on the pull' Jap saw fine tooth side also.  Works well;but you can still wander so keep checking and cut slow.....................................

[Dr. Tim-Boone]

Spoke shave and then small finish block plane....sharp!!  Its simple, You will find you can do it...carefully.