This might work for someone else

[Dennis Glazener]

I have a small caliber rifle that the ram rod kept getting stuck in and I didn't want to make the RR any smaller (plus I didn't want to refinish it!). I have a 48" long 3/8 drill but its too large for this 5/16" RR hole. Was thinking about ordering a piece of 48" 5/16 drill rod and happened to remember I had bought one of Rice's 5/16 cleaning rods.

So I took a .310 drill bit that I found in my junk bit box, sharpened it then put it in the lathe and turned the shank down to .190" then threaded it with a 10/32 die so it would fit the 10/32 cleaning rod. Removed the screw on ball from the Rice cleaning rod and proceeded to clean-up what was supposed to be a 5/16" rr hole (probably swollen from the high moisture in our area). Now the rr slips in and out with no problems and now I have both a 3/8 and a 5/16 drill to clean-out those tight RR holes if need be. Best of all I didn't have to buy anything other than what I had on hand.
Dennis

[smylee grouch]

How did the turning and threading of the bit go?

[Bob Roller]

How did the turning and threading of the bit go?

That's easy because the shanks are usually soft unless it's carbide.

Bob Roller

[mtlonghunter]

If you pour Thompsons  water seal down the ram rod hole it minimizes swelling later on in humid conditions.

[smylee grouch]

Thanks for that reply Bob. After I read your post it dawned on me that when ever I don't tighten up my drill chucks enough I always turn a burr on the shank of the bit.

[Dennis Glazener]

How did the turning and threading of the bit go?

Not a problem at all. Took maybe 1/2 hrs total.
Dennis

[Scota4570]

I had a similar problem with the Harbor Freight long drill bit, it made a small hole that bound up on the shank of the drill. The cutting end was too small.  I upset the outer edge of the cutting flutes by kicking up a small burr with the shank of another drill bit.  I just  smacked  the snot out of it and backed it in a V-block.  That made the drill cut a hair larger hole.  It gave clearance for the bit to drill the hole properly and also let the ramrod fit the hole properly.   The HF super long drill bits are pretty soft and can peened a little. 

[Pennsylvania Dutchman]

Dennis, I did something similar when I drilled my barrel blank. I had a 19/32" drill that had an internally threaded shank. I drilled as deep as I could with the drill, then I made two extension shanks. One I made about a foot long and drilled as deep as I could with that, then a second long enough to drill thru the 42" blank. Worked great.
Mark

[draton2681]

It would be nice if someone would produce such bit attachments for sale. I also have tight RR issues  but don't have machinery to make the bits. Was a great idea and thanks for sharing Dennis.

[Kickeman]

It would be nice if someone would produce such bit attachments for sale. I also have tight RR issues  but don't have it, the machinery to make the bits. Was a great idea and thanks for sharing Dennis.

I agree! would love to buy such a pice since I also lack the proper machinery! 

@Dennis, great idea thank you very much for posting!

[T*O*F]

I agree! would love to buy such a pice since I also lack the proper machinery! 

I have been drilling my ramrod holes like this for years.  I sold my regular ramrod drills here because they were a PITA to use and went back to my old method.

I have 2 36" stainless cleaning rods that screw together, so I could do a ramrod up to 72" long.  I just screw together the segments I need for the gun I'm working on.  I took some brad-pointed wood drills to a friend with a small lathe and had him center drill them and thread the holes for a 10/32 screw.  This makes them the same setup as a cleaning jag.  I just screw the bit onto the rod and drill away.  Got no use for conventional ramrod drills.  As for lacking the proper machinery, anyone can find a local machinist to drill and tap a couple for you...no biggy!!

[Joe S]

Here's an easy alternative.  I made a scraper by filing a blade on the end of  3/8" hardware store 1018.  The blade was cold peened so that is one or two thousandths wider than the shaft, then case hardened.  You'll need two, with the blades offset from each other.  This system works very well for opening up a tight RR hole.