Adding to trigger bars............. Again............

[Birddog6]

Why is it on every rifle I build with doubleset triggers, I always have to add metal to the bars ? 

Seems to me they should make them taller like they do on the single trigger & we can cut them
down, not have to add metal & take a chance on messing them up. 

What would it cost them too add 1/4 to 3/8" to the top of the bars  ?  Quarter ?  maybe ?

I use  Davis  triggers most of the time because I like them & have had wonderful reliability from
them for years, but it just aggravates me to have to add  Every Time.  Even with the tall ones
that Chambers has made, normally not tall enough unless you want 1/2" of travel...........

Anyone else have this problem, or is it just me ?

Keith

[billd]

The triggers Jim Chambers sells are made by Davis but have the extra added just like you described.

Bill

[Birddog6]

Yes, I know, and sometimes they still are not tall enough.

That was my point, Seems to me like they should add 3/8" to the top of the bars & let us cut them down to where we want them.   

[Lucky R A]

     I have heard this complaint before.  I buy Davis # 4s by the dozen and it is my "go to" trigger.  I have never once had a need to "add" metal to the trigger bars, but I sure have ground a lot of them down to get the propper backlash to allow the lock to set correctly.  What are you building that has this high of a wrist?   

[Birddog6]

That is what I am using right now, a DST-4.  I build mostly Lancaster rifles, a few Jaegers.  I remember on a Bedford I had to take some off, and a couple of Bucks I had to take some off.  I am building a TN rifle right now & I have to add about 3/16". On all of the Lancasters I have to add meat to the bars.  I don't like to bend the sear arm down as I want it above the edge of the lockplate so you can get the lock out easy.
Maybe most have more travel than I like ?  I want mine right up against the sear arm & only 1/8 to 3/16" travel.  I want no freeplay at all, just enough to let the sear engage.
I use allot of the DST-4 & 6 & Jaeger triggers & they are just great.  I jJust wish they had more meat on top of the bars.

[George F.]

You are by no means alone with this problem, Not only making them trigger bars taller , but the trigger pivot points need to be spaced 1/8" farther apart. I have looked at this alot to see what the problem is. Even raising the height of the bars, weren't engaging the sear bar right, actually barely catching the sear. Take a good look at it, If they were farther apart, the trip arms would be longer, enabling them a longer reach.   ...Geo.

[Ephraim]

Birddog if I remember right Dixie used to offer a high and low bar, set trigger but I don't remember who built them.
Ephraim

[Mike Brooks]

I always have to grind mine shorter......

[Don Getz]

If I remember correctly, Jim added a piece to his Davis doouble set triggers because of the Edward Markshall kit. the way
that gun is made leaves a rather big area under the lock and requires some additional height in order to work.   In building a lot of lancaster type guns I have never had to build one up.   If you have a stock where the ramrod hole is high, or up where it should be, you should be removing wood under the lock, almost to the point of being flat, or nearly
flat...makes for a trimmer looking gun.  Of course, that kind of depends on the gun you are building..........Don

[George F.]

I believe our trigger engagement problem comes from a ramrod hole that leaves a thick barrel/ramrod web. If you drill your own you can yell at yourself, but if they were farmed out, yelling might not work to good either. I 'm working on one that the triggers don't even come close, and they are the high bar Davis triggers. I did not drill the hole myself. Another thing that might cause  problem is the barrel was an "A" wt. which brings the lock higher in the stock. Sometimes it's a combination of things. I think the main reason is a thick web. But it happens to me. ... Geo.

[rdillon]

I agree with BirdDog.  I don't like any play in my front trigger either.  I use the highbars sometimes too and they are not high enough at times.  But like Don says if you can get the bottom of the rifle fairly flat then no problems should be had.

[Dennis Glazener]

I have heard this complaint before.  I buy Davis # 4s by the dozen and it is my "go to" trigger.  I have never once had a need to "add" metal to the trigger bars, but I sure have ground a lot of them down to get the propper backlash to allow the lock to set correctly.  What are you building that has this high of a wrist?   

I have to opposite problem! I use the DST-4 and I always have to grind off the top of the bars. It must be the style of rifle that you are building. The web between the rr and barrel is not that thin on mine, about 3/16". I have problems with the trigger bars holding the sear off. Really have to take a lot of metal off the gain clearance!
Dennis

[George F.]

Another point I want to mention is I've seen some rifles with DST's and they inletted the DST's below the surface of the wood to get the triggers to engage properly.  I don't think this is the way to do it, but for some it is.  ...Geo.

[Birddog6]

I guess I need to take more off the bottom  then, cause on most of the Lancasters I have to add metal to the top of the triggers.   I normally have the RR hole & barrel inlet & I take it from there.
Gonna study that a bit......  Possibly need to take more off the bottom.....  On this one I am about 1/16 off the trigger bar, best I can tell. By the time I slope the bar so it will trip it halfway decent, I will be 1/8" or more so I will investigate taking the whole thing down a bit to move it closer.
I don't like the triggerplate sunk into the wood, I want it flush with the wood.

Thanks

Keith

[George F.]

Be very careful as you proceed. Try to get the exact bottom of the ramrod hole marked on the outside of the stock. I've come through on 2 stocks trying to get those triggers to work.A darn agravating event.   ...Geo.

[Steve Bookout]

The Davis triggers are mostly O.K. and usually will fill a definite need, but that is all I normally think of them.  Considering all my own trials and tribulations is why I make my own.  And it can be done in the house and without a forge.  Cheers, Bookie