frizzen to pan question

[Jim Curlee]

Been polishing up my lock.
Was lookin at the area where the frizzen, and the frizzen pan come together.
It's pretty tight but I can still see light through there when I hold it up to the sun.
What should the proper fit be?
Thanks
Jim

[rich pierce]

It will change over time with wear. You could try to get it perfect but that requires filing the pan as the frizzen pivots to rest. In bad cases needing a lot of adjustment this means the pan will no longer be "flat" if you will. If it's a small adjustment and would make you feel better go for it.  But if there is any slop in the frizzen on its pivot then I'd forget about it.

[little joe]

Depends on what you want to do with your rifle, hunting, as close as you can get, target, I have saw some very crudely assembled locks give excellent results. If the lock is already assembled you need to be very careful on what you do. It can always get worse.

[Mark Elliott]

It should be as close as you can get it.   However,  once the frizzen screw is installed,  there isn't much you can do to fit it better.    I have tried and learned it is just best to leave well enough alone.   

[David Rase]

If you want a perfect seal, use a Q-tip and apply a coat of prussian blue to the underside of the frizzen pan cover.  Snap the frizzen closed.  Open the frizzen.  Using a flat riffler file, file away the high spots where you see the transfer of the Prussian blue.  Repeat this process until you get 100% contact between the pan cover and pan.
David 

[SingleMalt]

I had good luck using a diamond whet stone to level both the frizzen and pan.

[smart dog]

Hi,
Dave Rase has your answer. However, don't kid yourself that by making a perfect seal you are preventing moisture from reaching the powder.  I do just Dave described to all my locks but I settle for a little bit less than 100% contact.

dave

[g2608671@verizon.net]

I can see where there is some space between the pan lip and the bottom of the frizzen on my Traditions but since I use 3F the grains are large enough that they do not dribble out.  I tried to convince myself that I needed to do some sculpting to make these two parts marry up flat to help guard against moisture but decided that moisture, like Mother Nature, will find a way no matter how close the frizzen is to the lip of the pan.  Decided to let well enough alone.

[Jim Curlee]

Figured perfect wasn't possible once I decided, that I would have to move the screw hole, to get the frizzen to set flat on the pan. That isn't going to happen! LOL
Decided to leave well enough alone, she's mighty close.
Thanks again for the help.
Jim

[hanshi]

I don't worry too much about the fit of the frizzen to the pan.  As long as 4F doesn't dribble out I'm fine with it.  Moisture?  I take other steps to prevent that.

[rich pierce]

I prime with my main charge powder. When it's 2F the fit would have to be pretty bad to lose prime. But a good fit is good workmanship and should be the goal. 

[bob in the woods]

As usual my memory fails me as to where, however I have seen locks which are primed, a finger seals the barrel side of the pan, then the lock is submerged in a bucket of water.  Lock is then withdrawn, give a shake, and fired.  I tried this with a Siler lock, and it did fire.  I believe that the flat sealing surface as on a Siler, has what is known as a "torturous" path or something like that. It works better than the so called waterproof designs with a lip.