dial calipers

[smylee grouch]

I the course of building a gun most use a caliper of some sort. I have been using a dial caliper and the ones that I have are not overly expensive so I would assume the quality is not top level. They all seem to never go back to zero all the time and I am wondering if the more expensive ones or maybe a digital model would be better. Any thoughts or opinions?

[Kingsburyarms]

I use both. I like my high end digital one for drill sizes and precise locations (Centering etc) as well as measuring bolts and threads. My less expensive dials I use as more in the "locked" mode where I an constantly checking a width one measurement where I am taking off metal or wood (measure 3 times, cut once) - I think I have 3 or 4 laying around the shop - but the digital is the "Go To" Micrometer.

[deepcreekdale]

With most tools, you get what you pay for. You can have cheap, you can have good, but usually not good and cheap. Good quality tools may cost more initially but are usually a better value in the long run in my opinion.

[Darkhorse]

I have a older set of Starret dial calipers, I bought them when I first started work in a Tool & Die shop about 40 years ago. As long as I keep them clean they always return to zero. Never had a need to try any other caliper. I also have micrometers and the only one I ever use us the 0 to 1" these are graduated to .0001", use is seldom as the calipers full fill most of my needs. I think you get what you pay for.

[WyomingWhitetail]

The brown and sharp dail calipers are top notch. They are expensive but very nice.

[n stephenson]

I guess  this sounds bad but, in the last few years my first Starrett  dial calipers have been put up in a nice wooden box like grandma`s treasured brooch. I find I suffer much less agony , and self loathing when I accidentally knock a cheap pair of @#$%neese  ones onto the floor . I found a guy at the Nashville fleamarket years ago that had four new ones in the box for fourty bucks . I`m on pair two now , they repeat well enough when they`re clean.

[P.W.Berkuta]

I the course of building a gun most use a caliper of some sort. I have been using a dial caliper and the ones that I have are not overly expensive so I would assume the quality is not top level. They all seem to never go back to zero all the time and I am wondering if the more expensive ones or maybe a digital model would be better. Any thoughts or opinions?

It boils down to "what are your needs" as far as accuracy is a concern. If you are doing close fit tolerances usally under 0.0025"  then a good digital caliper or mike would pay but if +/- 0.010 is all you need then a caliper under $40.00 might be good enough for you. I have two Harbor Freight digital calipers that I use about 90% of the time and they do good - are priced under $25. I have calibrated Starrett & Mitutoyo calipers & mikes for the rest.

[Jerry V Lape]

A set of the cheap plastic calipers are nice if you are measuring an original or other finished rifle or part.  They are less likely to mar the finish. 

[Kingsburyarms]

A set of the cheap plastic calipers are nice if you are measuring an original or other finished rifle or part.  They are less likely to mar the finish.

Now I need more tools.... (Plastic) Great idea..

[Mike Brooks]

I have never found the need for dial calipers in 37 years of building ML guns.

[Elnathan]

Look on ebay. I picked up my Mitutoyo calipers there for about $35 five or six years ago. I've found them very, very useful for all kinds of things. They have skipped once and I had to tilt the dial a bit to re-zero them, but otherwise no problem.

Bob Roller is a big fan of vernier calipers for precision work, IIRC.

[Hungry Horse]

I have a plastic pair of General Tool dial calipers that I use the most. I have a stainless steel set with a dial, from Harbour Freight, that I use occasionally. To be honest the plastic ones are probably more accurate than whatever the old gunsmiths were using.
 I think as usual there are a bunch of you guys that are OVERTHINKING a lot of this gunbuilding thing. I would suspect the gun makers of old were quick and precise. They used minimal tool and relied on experience rather than gadgets. If you examine old guns you'll find they rarely are "right" by measurement, but they look right.

 Hungry Horse

[WadePatton]

I sold my digital Starretts, all they were good for was running down batteries, even after I modified the case to stop turning them when in storage.  It's nice to flip/flop between inches and micrometers as much of what I do involves both BUT there was no backup scale for use when the digitronics were dead.

A simple dial is great to use, but I don't have a good set in house now.

I now always use _and love_ a set of Mitutoyo verniers (dual scale) given to me by a friend because no one else at his business would learn how to read them-and they're not machinists, so they get a pass .  They never need batteries and the dial doesn't move.

The biggest hassle is locating them. 

Also, most uses have nothing to do with longrifles.   

I want some inside and outside calipers without scales at all for the bench, but just haven't run across the right ones when I had money to spend. Fit by feel, not by nummers. 

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Dial calipers, cheap or expensive, suffer from dust in the track.  Every now and again, I spray wd40 into the opened up calipers, then tooth brush the track and blow the oil out with compressed air.  The WD40 alone can do this but compressed air is better.  Then the calipers will zero fine until they pick up more dust...steel wool dust is the worst.  Just lay the calipers on the bench once, and they pick up the steel dust.  Mine have become magnetic which is a pain in the toosh.

[WadePatton]

...become magnetic which is a pain in the toosh.

and that's what interrupted my early attempts at learning engraving.  magnetisms.  Toosh I say! 

[Daryl]

Few years back, I picked up a set of Hornady Dial Calipers.  They are now my favourites and I have retired my old tired ones (I'm tired of them).  The new set return to zero every time - very nice and give a reading on patch material in the middle, that is, between the other two sets, 1 thou thicker than the 'thin' set and 1 thou thinner than the 'thick' set.

[ron w]

Taylor is right on. that's what I was going to say as well. personally, I've had a couple 20 dollar calipers from Harbour Feight that I've taken to work and compared to the Starretts that the Milwrights had and they were just as accurate. I could make the Starretts read wrong by a thousandth or two just as easily as my cheapoes, by differing thumb pressure.  just like any micrometer their accuracy is all in having the consistently right touch.  those cans of keyboard air cleaner work good to blow junk out of the track as well. and then be mindful of where you lay them down !.

[smylee grouch]

Thanks for all the reply's. I use mine mostly to measure drills and such as almost all my drills are in the bottom of a drawer. I use them for some other tasks too but I get tired of having to clean them out and re-zero them.

[Mike Brooks]

Few years back, I picked up a set of Hornady Dial Calipers.  They are now my favourites and I have retired my old tired ones (I'm tired of them).  The new set return to zero every time - very nice and give a reading on patch material in the middle, that is, between the other two sets, 1 thou thicker than the 'thin' set and 1 thou thinner than the 'thick' set.

Do those read in Canadian?

[jerrywh]

 I use both but I use the dial type more. you need to wipe off the jaws each time you use them. I just pinch my shirt sleeve with them and wipe them off. 1 piece of dust will throw them off. The digital type you just push a button and they zero. The problem is if the jaws are dirty or dusty they will zero with the dust in them. Not good. The old type mic, is too slow for me.

[Scota4570]

I have used up several dial calipers.  Vernears are not worth talking about.

I strongly endorse digital. For general gunsmithing I would be totally lost without them.   I have a 6" Mitsutoyo with carbide jaws.  Being able to set a zero and then remove material to that setting is a big deal for me.  I saves a lot of math and head scratching.  The zero setting is like a tare function on a weighting scale.  The carbide jaws double as a scribe.  They seem to be very accurate.  When I put them on a 1/2" gauge block it reads 0.500"  They do produce reproducible results.  So, wheter the number is dead accurate, it not big deal to me.  I really don't care if they agree with my micrometers, I don't use the mics. 

[n stephenson]

I agree with Mike , I don`t have to have them to build a gun . I just mostly use them for quick measuring. I used them so long doing machine work that, I started using in the gunshop . I also use a couple of steel scale rulers  a 6 inch as well as an 18 inch one also . The longer one mostly for a straight edge .     

[Mark Elliott]

I have a number of different types of calipers from a cheap plastic General to an expensive Starrett.   Calipers are not by their nature high precision tools.  They generally don't measure to more than .001".   Use a micrometer when high precision is required.   My grandfather was a machinist and he never thought much of calipers.   That said, the more expensive one does zero more consistently as long as it is kept clean.   I normally use a $20 digital caliper that reads in English, Metric and fractional.   I keep it in fractional mode most of the time, and I zero it every time I use it.    If the measurement is critical,  I pull out my Starrett micrometer.  That is almost never for building a muzzleloader.     

[Clark Badgett]

I've burned up 3 Mitutoyo digitals and my Starretts finally got to where they would hold less than .005" tolerance. I'm now on dial Mitutoyos. Calipers are good for close enough work, but not for precise work. That being said my cheap reloading calipers have held up for years.

[Daryl]

Few years back, I picked up a set of Hornady Dial Calipers.  They are now my favourites and I have retired my old tired ones (I'm tired of them).  The new set return to zero every time - very nice and give a reading on patch material in the middle, that is, between the other two sets, 1 thou thicker than the 'thin' set and 1 thou thinner than the 'thick' set.

Do those read in Canadian?

nope - just 'mercan.