Barrel rib

[Mauser06]

Cade cove,. A appreciate those pictures!!!  Very helpful!!


Ron, I appreciate your pics!!  I actually came across one of those pictures on Google of the rib. Love the molding of it!    It's attached by screws?   Like drilled/tapped machine screws into the barrel like a common TC is done??   



Taylor, I figured the rib will only be as wide as the bottom flat and the thickness will be wherever I want the ramrod to enter the stock...Figured if I find a 1/2" square piece around 2ft long I will have enough material to work with...If I order an exotic or something.  Some of the exotics are extremely hard and durable and could look great. Again, not necessarily 100% historically accurate..But a 36cal cherry half stock flintlock isnt either. I'd like to find a school to pattern it off of though just so the stock architecture isn't completely wrong.

I do have some good hard maple I could stain dark and I bet it's look good. Rub it back enough to show curl and wood grain but leave it all pretty dark.  The stock is cherry and not a cherry I can easily match. The way the plank is cut, I don't know that I wanna risk trimming it.


Very good thread!!   Lots of options and ideas.



I need to order the barrel and decide on furniture.  This build is probably a ways off...But I'd like to have it planned and parts ordered so when I am ready, I can get to it.

[Cades Cove Fiddler]

  ....I believe the wood on the rib of my TENNESSEE rifle is hickory....I've had experience with hickory(firewood & ax handles) and the grain is like this....hickory is a tough wood....probably stained dark originally, also darkened through the years.....actually the only antique Tennessee rifle I have ever seen with wood under-rib, although I have been told by others that they have seen same.....regards, DGB..... see you'ns in Knoxville tomorrow...!!!

[Long John]

Mauser,

I used Jerry's method to solder the top filler strip and the bottom filler strips with RR pipes and barrel lugs to the barrels of my double-gun.  (Jerry thanks for all your pointers!!!!!!!)  It was far easier than I had imagined and the barrels came out fine.  The aluminum rod in the RR pipes will not solder with tin/silver solder so there is not threat of them getting stuck permanently to the rib or pipes. I used a single MAPP gas torch from both the silver soldering of the barrels and the High-Force 44 soldering of the filler strips.

When Jerry offers advice, I listen AND take notes.

Best Regards,

John Cholin

[Ky-Flinter]

Ron, I appreciate your pics!!  I actually came across one of those pictures on Google of the rib. Love the molding of it!    It's attached by screws?   Like drilled/tapped machine screws into the barrel like a common TC is done??   

Mauser06,

Yes, the rib is attached to the barrel with screws.  Drilled and tapped for 6x40 screws IIRC.  One inch barrel in .54 caliber so I had plenty of wall thickness, but drilled the holes pretty shallow.

-Ron

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

M06:  you've got the right idea.  Good luck with your build, and enjoy the ride!

[Mauser06]

Anxious to get started!   But I know it'll be a while before I get started.  Trying to find a house at the moment... Hopefully that happens soon and then I can get back to the projects. 
In the mean time, planning and collecting parts for this build, a pistol and a Beck inspired longrifle.

Realizing that you can't always just find the exact parts you need so planning ahead and snagging parts and ordering stuff as I can.

[heelerau]

Gentlemen, have followed this post and will have another go at soft soldering the under rib back onto my .72 Hollis. As a matter of interest, when I first took the rib off the rifle it was in fact filled with old dry linseed putty. Have any of you blokes ever run into that on any original rifles? 

[alacran]

I first saw a wood under rib on a small flintlock built by a man folks called "Pappy".  It had a flared and tapered barrel and the rib followed it perfectly. It was attached with pins and staple tennons I assume. 
I wanted to cut own weight on a .58 barrel I can interchange for my .54 Hawken barrel.  I weighed a 1 inch section of solid under rib, a 1 inch section of hollow under rib and a 1 inch section of hickory, shaped like  a steel under rib. When multiplied by the required length, plus the added weight of the thimbles this is what I came up with. Solid rib , 8 ounces hollow, rib 4 ounces, hickory rib 2ounces. So I used a hickory under rib on that barrel.