Browning a lock / frizzen

[g2608671@verizon.net]

I am just about at the point in the my Kibler kit in which I will be browning the metal.

I am concerned about polishing the lock because I do not understand what a good process is relative to getting the casting roughness down to a polished surface.  If someone can vector me to a tutorial on how to do that I will be grateful.

In addition, since the frizzen is hardened through and through, is it advisable to heat it during the browning process?  My concern is that the heating process will soften the frizzen face.

Thanks folks!

[Eric Krewson]

No easy way to polish a lock, pretty much needle files, sand paper and lots of elbow grease.

Your files won't touch the frizzen so for me it has been sand paper only.

If you use LMF to brown your lock you don't need heat.

Another thing; stop at 220 grit paper on your polishing if you want to brown your lock.

[rich pierce]

If your lock has a detachable pan then you can draw file the lockplate then go to 150, 220, and 320 grit paper. For the rest of the external lock parts except the frizzen its small to needle files then the same grits.  Some go to 400 but I rarely do.

After doing a number of locks of the same model, one gets to know where the divots and scratches are.  Mostly the same places every time.  Sure beats forging and filing to shape!

[Ky-Flinter]

Here's a tutorial on Lock polishing tools, materials and techniques by Acer.....
http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=2585.0

-Ron

[Elnathan]

I'm not sure that locks were ever browned, just polished. Something to consider.