Bee`s Wax ?

[n stephenson]

I`ve seen a couple of posts of guns with bee`s wax finish. Can someone with experience in this finishing technique give some insight   into the application , preparation , historical provenance , etc. I`m interested in this method and , would like to hear more about it. I don`t  want to leave anyone out or make them mad but, I`m not really interested in YOUR  opinion of this method  but, the method itself from people that have done it.  If you don`t like the method that`s fine but, please allow those that are interested to hear about it without negative input.

[Mike Brooks]

Brumfield and Gusler are the only ones I know of that have messed with it.

[EC121]

Beeswax will dissolve in turpentine.  Add some boiled linseed oil or even Tru-oil and wipe it on a scrap.  Proportions are your choice, but the paint store turpentine smells.  Next time I'm using the artists version.  I made some as an experiment but never used it on a rifle.  There used to be a man at Tannehill State Park who used it.  He was a sort of tourist show and tell gunmaker.  He told me it was a soft finish, but easily reapplied if it wore through.

[WadePatton]

As I was in an all-fire rush to get my deer rifle to the woods a couple of years back, I finished it with beeswax.  Straight up hard beeswax melted onto and rubbed HOT into the wood.  Uncomfortably hot on the fingers.  Rub in/on, wipe away excess, buff.  Looks great.

I used it over aqua-fortis blushed maple.  And I don't plan to do such again.  It is easy to patch up/repair for sure, I've done it twice at least.  I refined the stock more (pared away excess wood) after hunting season-then re-blushed and blended it all together.  Later I streaked it with blackwater from a leaky toothpick when cleaning.  Scraped that clear and re-beeswaxed.  I've had no trouble with it in hard weather but I don't dilly around in the rain much.

So aside from a "test-bed" gun I won't be fooling with it again real soon.  There's my opinion from a little bit of experience, but I'm no historian. I think the brothers Sapergia have some guns beeswax finished.

[tallbear]

  Beeswax was Gary Brumfields go to finish.It was his favorite and I learned about it from him.He had no historical references to it being used on guns but did have references to it being used as a bar top finish.His reasoning was that if it was waterproof/tough enough for a bar top it was good enough for a gun.

  The process is basically heating the stock with a heat gun and allowing the wax to penetrate the wood until the wood would take no more.The wax will actually penetrate all the way into the barrel channel.This is done once a day for a few days until the stock will absorb no more.You will use up a roughly lemon sized amount of wax.The one downside to the finish is that it does need maintenance.This is done by dissolving beeswax in turpentine until it's the consistency of Vaseline.Every once in a while this is rubbed on ,let to dry and buffed off.The overall look of the finish mellows and keeps getting better looking over time.

  I have used it on a few guns.the first was one of my personal guns that I used for about 3 years until I sold it.I was pleased with the results.I have also done it on a couple of customers guns and they've been pleased with the results.

 It's not a finish for everyone ,or a perfect finish but one that I would not hesitate to use as long as the customer understands that it will need to be maintained.The last gun I used it on is pictured below.

Mitch

[okawbow]

I have read a test on wood finishes that concluded a bees wax finish as the most waterproof of any wood finish.

I've used a hot applied bees wax finish on wood bows several times. Very water resistant, but little protection from bumps and scratches.

[flehto]

The hard maple spatula I made for stirring paella in my new enamelized  porcelain 8 qt. cast  iron pot may seem to be "off topic", but not so. The spatula was infused w/ bee's wax and absorbed much more of it than I thought possible and it turned out that this spatula is so handy, that it's in constant use. The bee's wax finish has withstood a lot of  hot cooking and frying and so far doesn't need a redo.

Am thinking of using bee's wax on the next LR seeing if it held up w/ the much used spatula , it would be more than sufficient for a gunstock.....Fred   

[n stephenson]

Thanks everybody for the input. Looks like there has been success with the method .Mitch , once again , a beautiful rifle , thanks . I have heard of  this finish  before , some years ago but have no experience at all with it. I appreciate that my post , hopefully wasn't taken in a mean way . I just feel that many times when someone asks for info. on a technique , someone will chime in and  discredit the technique based on their opinion and ,then someone who has  had experience won`t comment because the "expert" has already shot the technique down.   Thanks to all!!

[conquerordie]

I'm surprised there is no 18th century documentation of his material being that's it's such an old material. Does anyone have a picture of beeswax finish on walnut?  Also, how warm do you make the stock to absorb the beeswax? I've used beeswax on stocks and just set it on the sun on a hot day, but a heat gun would allow me to finish it quicker. One last question, do you use beeswax paste, or a block of natural wax just rubbed on a warm stock? Sorry for asking so many questions, even with the maintenance, it seems like a useable and beautiful finish.
Greg

[bob in the woods]

Brushed on or rubbed on, the stock is heated until the beeswax actually bubbles and is sucked into the stock. That is how I do it. The wax will penetrate right through the stock into the barrel channel and almost through the buttstock area. I have used this on cherry before carving, and it eliminated the tendency that stock had for chipping. When the carving was done, I just applied more wax.
I used this finish/treatment on my own smoothbore and it has stood up through extreme weather when hunting.

[bama]

Tried and True beeswax and linseed oil finish is a good product and gives a nice warm finish. I apply it by hand rubbing until I am happy with the look.

[Daryl]

Brushed on or rubbed on, the stock is heated until the beeswax actually bubbles and is sucked into the stock. That is how I do it. The wax will penetrate right through the stock into the barrel channel and almost through the buttstock area. I have used this on cherry before carving, and it eliminated the tendency that stock had for chipping. When the carving was done, I just applied more wax.
I used this finish/treatment on my own smoothbore and it has stood up through extreme weather when hunting.

Surprised Taylor hasn't commented on this thread. BW is the finish he put on his .62 S. Hawken - similar process to yours Bob.

[Curtis]

This rifle was finished by applying bees wax using a heat gun until it would absorb no more (much like what tallbear described) then given a few coats of tung oil over the bees wax.  The finish has held up well so far.







Curtis

[Mauser06]

 Curtis,no issues with the tung oil sticking or drying??   Was it a true tung oil? Or a tung oil "finish"?


Curious because in my mind, seems like a beeswax treatment of the entire stock and then a building oil finish for the outside of the stock would be a great way to protect a rifle that's built for a life of use in the woods. Just don't know if thered be an issue with the oil finish sticking and drying properly...

[elk killer]

Have used beeswax softened in turpentine for the last 40 plus years,
survived many many Idaho elk hunts, in snow and sleet
use a cheese grater to shred the wax into a glass jar, then add
Turpinentire until it's like Vaseline, then apply as abouve

[Dave Marsh]

Has anyone tried the beeswax over a finish?  I don't know if the stock will absorb it thru a tru-oil or chambers oil finish.  Any advice there?

Dave

[PPatch]

Has anyone tried the beeswax over a finish?  I don't know if the stock will absorb it thru a tru-oil or chambers oil finish.  Any advice there?

Dave

It won't work well over a sealed finish, the finish depends on penetration.

dave

[Dave Marsh]

It won't work well over a sealed finish, the finish depends on penetration.

dave
[/quote]

Thanks Dave.  That is what I figured.   Guess I am going to have to buy an unfinished gun to give it a try.  @!*% -- hate it when that happens.

Dave

[WadePatton]

It won't work well over a sealed finish...

Thanks Dave.  That is what I figured.   Guess I am going to have to buy an unfinished gun to give it a try.  @!*% -- hate it when that happens.

buy a blank, they're much cheaper.   

[n stephenson]

Thanks everyone !! Some very nice results. Thanks for your insight and sharing photos of some beautiful rifles .   Thanks   Nate

[Daryl]

Mitch and Curtis - beautiful rifles!

[conquerordie]

Yes, thank you all for the info and pics. I think this is the finish I'm going with for my New England long fowler. The wood is a fairly plain piece of walnut. Its a fairly plain gun really, but the warmth of the finish in the pictures is what I'm after.
Greg

[Cody Tetachuk]

  Beeswax was Gary Brumfields go to finish.It was his favorite and I learned about it from him.He had no historical references to it being used on guns but did have references to it being used as a bar top finish.His reasoning was that if it was waterproof/tough enough for a bar top it was good enough for a gun.

  The process is basically heating the stock with a heat gun and allowing the wax to penetrate the wood until the wood would take no more.The wax will actually penetrate all the way into the barrel channel.This is done once a day for a few days until the stock will absorb no more.You will use up a roughly lemon sized amount of wax.The one downside to the finish is that it does need maintenance.This is done by dissolving beeswax in turpentine until it's the consistency of Vaseline.Every once in a while this is rubbed on ,let to dry and buffed off.The overall look of the finish mellows and keeps getting better looking over time.

  I have used it on a few guns.the first was one of my personal guns that I used for about 3 years until I sold it.I was pleased with the results.I have also done it on a couple of customers guns and they've been pleased with the results.

 It's not a finish for everyone ,or a perfect finish but one that I would not hesitate to use as long as the customer understands that it will need to be maintained.The last gun I used it on is pictured below.

Mitch

Used it. LOVE it. Mitch's post is pretty much verbatim what I would have posted.

[rudyc]

Would paraffin wax be any better / worse??

I have used paraffin wax on selfbows and like the results. It is a softer finish that needs to be maintained, but is sure sheds water.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

I must give credit to Cody Tetachuck for introducing me to bees wax finish on gun stocks.  He showed me a rifle he had just finished several years ago, and it impressed me.  So I thought it would be the finish on my favourite hunting arm..my Hawken.  I have been delighted with the appearance and durability.  About once a year, I just rub on a coat of good paste wax, and give it a buff.  Incidentally, applying the wax and finishing the whole stock only took one hour.