Author Topic: Flint to percussion conversion  (Read 4102 times)

Offline okawbow

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Flint to percussion conversion
« on: May 12, 2017, 02:48:36 AM »
I started building a Bedford Co. Style rifle in 1985. I finally finished it about 3 years ago. It started out as a percussion, but hard to find caps and my general change to shooting only flintlocks led me to convert it to flint.

I bought an L&R Bedford flintlock, and made a vent bushing to fit the threaded drum hole. The lock fit well and the conversion was easy.i shot the gun a few times, but the lock never worked very well. It dropped into half cock often, when using the set trigger. It also was not a good sparker sometimes, and had too many FTFs. The gun also just didn't look right with the flintlock. I had loosely copied a percussion rifle.

3 years later, I got the urge to shoot a Bedford percussion again. In the mean time, I had modified and used the old percussion lock on another rifle. I didn't want to buy a new lock, so I bought a percussion hammer and converted the lock to percussion. I made a new drum, and worked over the sear, fly and tumbler to make the lock dependable.

Nearly everyone else in my club shoots a percussion rifle. Now I'll have one to help fit in a little better.





As in life; it’s the journey, not the destination. How you get there matters most.

Offline WaterFowl

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Re: Flint to percussion conversion
« Reply #1 on: May 12, 2017, 04:45:45 AM »
I love projects like this...Glad you are one of the boys now...

I would like the look of the lock plate better if the bolt holes were filled and filed...plus it will keep the internals cleaner.

Good save..and happy shooting....Dan

Offline smart dog

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Re: Flint to percussion conversion
« Reply #2 on: May 12, 2017, 02:38:42 PM »
Hi Okawbow,
I agree the open holes should be filled.  Here is an easy way to do that:

Drill the holes to an appropriate size for a screw (like 6-32 or 8-32 or so).  Thread the hole and then lightly countersink both sides of the holes.  Thread in a bolt, cut it off slightly longer than necessary on both sides of the lock plate and peen the ends down into the countersinks.  Then file off flush.  No need for weld or solder.

dave
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Offline James Wilson Everett

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Re: Flint to percussion conversion
« Reply #3 on: May 12, 2017, 02:50:08 PM »
Guys,

Don't be too concerned about filled holes showing a bit in a gunlock.  Here are two photos of an original gunlock in the collection of gunsmith tools in the Fort Ligonier museum.  Ligonier was at one time part of Bedford County, Pa.

Jim



« Last Edit: November 30, 2019, 05:34:34 PM by James Wilson Everett »

Offline okawbow

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Re: Flint to percussion conversion
« Reply #4 on: May 12, 2017, 03:44:43 PM »
I'll probably fill the holes, but I've also seen several original conversions that left the holes unfilled.

I've always liked the Bedford rifles because they continued to make carved and inlaid guns after other schools had stopped.
As in life; it’s the journey, not the destination. How you get there matters most.

Offline Hungry Horse

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Re: Flint to percussion conversion
« Reply #5 on: May 12, 2017, 06:03:30 PM »
I think the holes should be filled, just to keep stuff from getting into the lock. But, I do like the lock to look converted, rather than pristine. I am also lazy, so drilling and tapping a bolt into the offending hole is just too much trouble, as is dressing  the protruding ends of the newly made plug. I simply get some copper electrical wire that is roughly the right size to fill the hole, cut it with wire cutters, stick it into the hole, and peen it tight with light hammer blows. You can even do a slight countersink on the back side with a drill bit that is a size or two larger than the existing hole, if you are worried about the slightly domed plug interfering with the internal works. Once the copper ages a bit, the conversion looks very authentic.

 Hungry Horse

Offline Daryl

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Re: Flint to percussion conversion
« Reply #6 on: May 12, 2017, 07:17:46 PM »
Agreed - "Stuff" as in water, moisture and $#@* that will bugger the lock.
Daryl

"a gun without hammers is like a spaniel without ears" King George V

Offline okawbow

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Re: Flint to percussion conversion
« Reply #7 on: May 13, 2017, 12:21:00 AM »
Here ya go.....


I took the rifle to the range to proof the new drum and nipple. It shot great with fast ignition and no hang fires for 30 shots. Lock worked perfect every time.

I took the lock off when I got home and counter sunk the 3 holes a little. Drove a snug fit nail in each hole and cut them off near the plate. Peened them against an anvil, and filed them smooth. Will finish browning later.
« Last Edit: May 13, 2017, 12:22:30 AM by okawbow »
As in life; it’s the journey, not the destination. How you get there matters most.

Smokey Plainsman

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Re: Flint to percussion conversion
« Reply #8 on: May 13, 2017, 10:10:42 AM »
Excellent! And who says the flinty boys have all the fun?  ;D

Online Marcruger

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Re: Flint to percussion conversion
« Reply #9 on: May 13, 2017, 04:06:30 PM »
If God had meant man to shoot percussion, why did he leave all of those rocks laying around on the ground?  ;-) 

Just kidding.  okawbow, I like the conversion you did, and it looks indeed like period work now. 

Best wishes, and God Bless,   Marc

Offline BOB HILL

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Re: Flint to percussion conversion
« Reply #10 on: May 13, 2017, 04:46:56 PM »
 Very nice looking conversion, Okawbow. All mentioned methods for filling the holes are great. One of the easiest to do and clean up is to fill with lead. Can be cast in with a little countersink on each side to lock it or just cut a small piece of lead and do just as H. Horse recommended with the copper. One advantage to the lead is that you can clean up with a sharp knife and not mar your nice finish on the lock. I like evidence of the conversion to show if done neatly, Jim.           Bob
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