release spring?

[yip]

 what do you feelas use for a release spring, the spring that holds the lid closed? not the spring that pops the lid open...................yip

[L. Akers]

I use the same stuff for both--either 1095 or 1075 spring steel in .015" or .020" thickness.

[yip]

  where can i buy a piece of spring stock, don't need much......yip

[thimble rig]

I use old hack saw blades for those springs.

[PPatch]

I use old hacksaw blades for those springs.

I've done the same. Anneal the blade, or spring steel stock, by heating to cherry red then burying in sand or ashes until it, slowly, but completely cools. You can then shape and drill it as you please. To get the springiness back (poor mans method) place your work in something like a sardine can and pour (used or not, done outside is best) motor oil to the rim - use a torch to set it on fire and then allow to completely burn out.

dave

[yip]

   thanks guys i'll try the saw blades. i've got pieces of band saw blades about 5/8"x 4'  just gotta cut em to make narrow.........yip

[Elnathan]

I use old hacksaw blades for those springs.

I've done the same. Anneal the blade, or spring steel stock, by heating to cherry red then burying in sand or ashes until it, slowly, but completely cools. You can then shape and drill it as you please. To get the springiness back (poor mans method) place your work in something like a sardine can and pour (used or not, done outside is best) motor oil to the rim - use a torch to set it on fire and then allow to completely burn out.

dave

I assume that you harden them between the shaping and burning oil steps.

[yip]

elanthan: please explain

[Mark Elliott]

I use 1/32" thick spring steel (1095/85) that I get from Brownells for both the catch spring and the lid spring.   They come in 1" strips about 12" long.  You can cut the springs out with aviation snips.    Then you just have to bend them and harden and temper them.   I harden in heat treat oil that I also get from Brownells.   Then I temper in my heat treat oven at 700F.   You could also put them in a molten lead bath to temper them.    If they are too stiff, you can temper to 750F.

If you use a hacksaw blade,  make sure that you use a plain carbon steel blade and not a bi-metal blade.    Personally,  I only buy the bi-metal blades.   The carbon steel blades don't last anytime at all.   

[yip]

  brownells sells the spring stock but in a bundle for $35.00, i don't need that much so i'll ask my machinist friend what kind of blade they use.  seems that the way to go

[PPatch]

I use old hacksaw blades for those springs.

I've done the same. Anneal the blade, or spring steel stock, by heating to cherry red then burying in sand or ashes until it, slowly, but completely cools. You can then shape and drill it as you please. To get the springiness back (poor mans method) place your work in something like a sardine can and pour (used or not, done outside is best) motor oil to the rim - use a torch to set it on fire and then allow to completely burn out.

dave

I assume that you harden them between the shaping and burning oil steps.

I've not found the need, I do it just as I described.

dp

[Smoketown]

Some use steel banding material - It's FREE!!!   

http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=10242.msg98838;topicseen#msg98838

http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=3505.msg32668;topicseen#msg32668

Cheers,
Smoketown

[Smoketown]

A broken lawn mower or chainsaw recoil spring should also work. - Also free.   
 
Cheers,
Smoketown

[Scota4570]

A friend gave me a 5-gallon bucket of power plant springs for wind up record players.  He restors them.  I bet a place that sells victrola power plant springs could supply one.  One should last a lifetime. 

[jerrywh]

 Old bandsaw blades work well also.

[Acer Saccharum]

Lid springs are usually very long. Seldom do you need to heat treat the steel. Cold rolled steel also works fine, because it never gets deflected far enough to take a set.

[Elnathan]

elanthan: please explain

To get a proper heat treat you heat up a piece of steel to critical heat and then quench it. That makes it hard. Then you temper it at a lower heat to soften it appropriate to the use for which you are making the piece.

PPatch says he doesn't harden it first. Why this works for him I cannot say.

[Jerry V Lape]

Another source of spring material - clock repair shops have old springs to discard.  Friend gave me several which were in his discard bucket.  They also have new spring material but the old stuff is perfect for my needs.