Smooth bore suggestions and recommendations

[g2608671@verizon.net]

I am thinking that this coming winter I may want to build a smooth bore that is capable of firing both a tightly patched round ball and shot (not at the same time).  Done some research and it looks like the to 20 ga is the optimum / most popular selection.  However, I am unsure if I should go with a flinter or a cap lock.  In addition I need a vector on a good kit gun that would be within my power and skill level to complete.  I just did a Kibler kit and had a wonderful experience on the whole process and I am ready for something more challenging.  FWIW, I am drawn to guns that are of the no frills variety relative to carving and inlay but are strong in the areas of expected accuracy, reliability and that are pleasing to the eye for what they are.
I am also thinking that I may want to try some light ageing techniques that would not hinder the function of the gun at all or take away from its look.

[sqrldog]

Since you've already used a Chambers kit and enjoyed the experience why not another Chambers. Jim offers several smoothbore options in 20 gauge. I'm sure the folks there would be glad to give advice on what they think would best fit your needs. Plain or fancy is your call as you build the gun. Tim

[bama]

Give Jack Garner a call at Tennessee Valley Manufacturing and he will help you with your project. Jack will do as much of the inlet work as you want, barrel, lock and triggers and butt plate. I have built several of his kits over the years and have always been satisfied with the quality. There is definitely more work involved than the Kibler's kit but you can produce a nice rifle or smooth bore from Jack's parts.

[sqrldog]

Boy getting old is not fun. Misread the post. I need to drink at least one cup of coffee before I read the forum.  Chambers or Jack either one will be a good option.  Too bad Kibler doesn't offer a smoothbore.Tim

[L. Akers]

  However, I am unsure if I should go with a flinter or a cap lock.

Absolutely no question--flint is the only way to go.

[Mauser06]

Not sure what Jim Kibler has up his sleeve as of yet.....but a new rifle is in the works. Maybe a smooth bore option. It's said to be an earlier rifle and larger bore...if a smooth option isn't available it can always be bored out smooth.....an option if you would want another kit from Kibler. 


Options are about endless. Most barrels are available smooth or rifled. If not, most can be made to a smooth bore. 


Find the rifle YOU like and then find a kit or stock to start with that you can do the work on.  As far as I know, nothing on the market is as "finished" as Kiblers.  Unless you order one "in the white"  from someone. 

[oldtravler61]

  Polekat I built Tracks tulle kit. Very satisfied with it. That gun will fire with barely any priming powder. So far it has never miss fired. If I do what I am supposed to do.  Oldtravler

[rich pierce]

For round ball .54 to .58 is plenty big, just keep in mind lead and recoil when you make your choice.

[jerrywh]

 I just went through the same decision and decided on a Hudson bay Indian trade gun.  They were originally produced in both 58 cal. and 62 cal. smooth bore,  They are simple and cheap to build and were probably the ultimate survival gun and still are in my opinion.  As simple as they are  I was surprised to learn some new things about the history of guns in Colonial and early America. I have heard for years that long rifles in America never had browned or fire blued barrels. Hudson bay Indian trade guns did have and this leads me to believe that it is also true of American long rifles.  Where else would the Indians get the idea or the desire to have such a feature. The same would be true of a Fusil but they are better looking in my opinion. I might even put a few tacks in mine just for Mike Brooks to look at.

[T*O*F]

I might even put a few tacks in mine just for Mike Brooks to look at.

Jerry,
That would just make your gun look as tacky as his.   

[g2608671@verizon.net]

Thanks folks, lots of good compass bearings provided here.  You know, now that I have reignited my age old love for the times and history of the French and Indian War (Seven Years War) I am kind of leaning toward the vector that jerrywh provided.  And I did look up Tracks NW Trade Gun offering and found it very interesting.  I am going to start by ordering James Gooding's Trade Guns of the Hudson's Bay Company, read it and use it as a guide for final decision making. I think I understand that the barrel comes with the breach plug installed and with a standard touch hole drilled / tapped and ready for the liner to be installed.  I am not a DIY guy on breech plugs and touch hole drilling.  Going to stay away form the stampings as I think I can better spend that money on sight dovetails being cut and lugs being soldered correctly and securely.
20 gage flint for sure.  Also, will be visiting The Gunmaker's Fare at Dixon's this year with more of a focused purpose than I ever had before. 

[Mike Brooks]

I might even put a few tacks in mine just for Mike Brooks to look at.

Jerry,
That would just make your gun look as tacky as his.   

Oh sure, everybody pile on....
  I'd go with a NW gun as well.

[oldtravler61]

  Hey Mike maybe we can have a " tacky three, four an more! Then we can all be famous for having a tacky gun. Like that other guy! Must be a Mike thingy. ROTFL.  Oldtravler

[Mike Brooks]

I must be a little dense...I don't recall ever putting tacks in a gun. 

[Hudnut]

Thanks folks, lots of good compass bearings provided here.  You know, now that I have reignited my age old love for the times and history of the French and Indian War (Seven Years War) I am kind of leaning toward the vector that jerrywh provided.  And I did look up Tracks NW Trade Gun offering and found it very interesting.  I am going to start by ordering James Gooding's Trade Guns of the Hudson's Bay Company, read it and use it as a guide for final decision making. I think I understand that the barrel comes with the breach plug installed and with a standard touch hole drilled / tapped and ready for the liner to be installed.  I am not a DIY guy on breech plugs and touch hole drilling.  Going to stay away form the stampings as I think I can better spend that money on sight dovetails being cut and lugs being soldered correctly and securely.
20 gage flint for sure.  Also, will be visiting The Gunmaker's Fare at Dixon's this year with more of a focused purpose than I ever had before.

Jim Gooding's book is certainly worth reading, along with Charles Hanson's.  Acquired a couple of HBC guns this spring - a trade gun dated 1857, converted to percussion, and a 26 bore double "The Imperial Extra Special".  Had both books out.
Lots of well researched HBC history in Gooding.

[jerrywh]

I must be a little dense...I don't recall ever putting tacks in a gun. 

  Everything is in fun Mike. 

[Mike Brooks]

I must be a little dense...I don't recall ever putting tacks in a gun. 

  Everything is in fun Mike.

I know that, I'm just so stupid I missed the joke. All fine by me. By the way, in general I HATE tacks.....

[g2608671@verizon.net]

  Polekat I built Tracks tulle kit. Very satisfied with it. That gun will fire with barely any priming powder. So far it has never miss fired. If I do what I am supposed to do.  Oldtravler

Well gee, now I am looking at this Tulle kit oldtraveler61 suggested and liking it too! So many guns - so little time!  It's actually a blessing. 
 

[Daryl]

The best shooting 20 bore I have seen, is Taylor's Penn. Fowler, a Chamber's kit, I think.  It shoots amazingly well - and he shoots it as well as (or better than) most people shoot rifles.

[thimble rig]

Call and talk to track of the wolf first before ordering.Some of those parts for the tuelle have been on back order for a loooong time.Look at Mike brooks site.He has some beautiful smooth bores on there.I could be wrong but I thought he used to offer a kit as well.

[Mike Brooks]

Call and talk to track of the wolf first before ordering.Some of those parts for the tuelle have been on back order for a loooong time.Look at Mike brooks site.He has some beautiful smooth bores on there.I could be wrong but I thought he used to offer a kit as well.

No kits anymore, only finished guns......but I quit taking orders so......

[g2608671@verizon.net]

The best shooting 20 bore I have seen, is Taylor's Penn. Fowler, a Chamber's kit, I think.  It shoots amazingly well - and he shoots it as well as (or better than) most people shoot rifles.

Well Daryl, I called and spoke with Jim Chambers today and he answered all the questions I have. I need to sit down with the order form, calculate the trade-offs, do the math and make a decision.  I may just wait to Dixon's Gun Maker's Fair and see him personally then and there.  The end of July is not that far off.   

[Daryl]

Polecat - visiting with Jim and Barbie will be a treat!  Great people! One of these, years, perhaps Taylor and I will get back to Dixons.

[thecapgunkid]

IN whatever you buy and undertake, watch the drop at the comb and buttplate.

I trekked for ten years with a Charleville missing six inches of muzzle and having a gouged out cheek area.  With my Ranger Group, we used to put holes in playing cards at twenty five yards and cut 2 X 4's in half at stake shoots.  I never really hunted in open areas, so that was more than adequate.

I had it re-stocked and still gouged out the cheek area.



I told you that part so I could tell you this....

I learned that you learn to point, not aim, the smoothbore.  That's probably why Mike et al are advising you toward trade guns and such.

That musket is the gun I want to be buried with

The combination of selectinon based on ability to cheek fast and point that gun should drive the kit or components you buy

Don't shoot yore eye out, kid

The Capgun Kid

[Hungry Horse]

You can hardly go wrong with a Chambers kit. Jim is a true gentleman, and will bend over backwards to make sure you get quality wood, and parts.
 With a musket, fit is everything. Tradeguns almost never have enough drop to keep them from hammering your cheek. Since most tradeguns, and fowlers, are quite light, the bigger gauges can be real face busters too.
 I believe that if you shoot a lot of shot, rather than round balls, you may want a larger gauge. This depend a lot on what you're shooting at. Clays, and upland game, can all be taken nicely with a twenty gauge. Water fowl are bigger, and harder to kill cleanly, and usually require a bigger gun to do the job.

     Hungry Horse