Sure Scott - I use Minwax Antique Oil. - I finished the stock with Iron Nitrate (Jim's solution) heated the stock and then did a Baking Soda wash. (Some people don't do that , I do for two reasons, to slow or stop the Iron Nitrate and to whisker the stock after the Nitrate. And then sanded and scraped until the balance of colors were what I wanted. I put on latex gloves and just by hand, no rag or towel, rub in the first coat of oil, pushing it in the wood grain, it gets sticky and dull quickly for the first coat, but cover everything. I use an old toothbrush to get the excess oil out of the small areas so it will not pool or go on thick (and shine) in the cracks and crevices.
24-48 hours drying time.
Do that same process again, the new coat will "melt" the coat underneath, and if you continue to rub it in, it will become dull, but a little more shiny.
24-48 hours drying time
Do this as may times as you see fit to get a semi-gloss finish. I also finish inside the lock area, under the barrel area and trigger (even use q-tips to ensure all wood is saturated) as the water used to clean the gun can get into the wood, so I like to seal everything.
Now, take a WHITE scotch bright pad (final finish version) and dull down the entire piece. it will have "scratches in it". Watch out for the high areas and the corners, you can sand right through the finish to wood (and beyond).
When you have this dull but scratchy finish, use one more light coat of oil with your hands (Again, I wear disposable medical gloves) and rub it in with some force. It will melt that dull finish, while filling in the scratches and making what you see posted. an eggshell finish with no grain showing at all.
