cleaning and ballistol

[Brian]

I get mine from an industrial supply house in Terrace Daryl, but I'm sure any number of places in PG stock it as well.  It comes in a 333 gram spray can.  Can is gold in color with a red top.  I think their web site is www.nlsproducts.ca.  It's main use is as a rust shield for industrial equipment and such.

They give a Canadian address of Box 70, Bobcaygeon, ON, K0M 1A0

[Harnic]

Fluid Film was recommended here a couple years ago so I bought a couple cans.  I still have most of it left.  Much too messy for gun use for me, especially when it might contact wood.   The only thing I use it for now is the door hinges on my old pickup!  Anyone who has had the misfortune of spending any time near sheep will recognize the smell of Fluid Film, that's the Lanolin.  I've used WD-40 for 30+ years with good results so why mess with what works?

[hanshi]

Chevy vs Ford has it.  Everyone seems to have their preferences and are satisfied with their choices.  Me; I'm not too picky.  I find WD40 excellent for the final bore cleaning step but I also fine I have to follow up with a good gun oil.  I'm getting some more Astyptodyne & test to see if any bore or patch applications.  Personally, I think we're lucky to have so many choices. 

[Brian]

Personally, I think we're lucky to have so many choices. 

Yeah,  I imagine most of this stuff was hard to find in 1765.  Just drop into the old trading post and pick up a couple cans of WD-40 or Fluid Film.   

[William Worth]

I got a one gallon can of "Fluid Film" at a farm machinery show.  If someone wants non-aerosol like that I expect they could contact the manufacturer and get some shipped.  The said it wouldn't separate, but it seems to me like it's getting a little thick at one end after prolonged storage.

[wmrike]

I think I've tried most of the commercial and home made blends for cleaning and have come to rely on straight water.

For surface coating to prevent rust I liked the late, lamented RIG the best, but have had no problems with any of the bottled stuff (Sheath, BoShield, Clenzoil, etc.) that is marketed now.  I've used Ballistol and can't say it's any better or worse, unless you factor in the odd odor.

[hanshi]

After reading these various posts I've started cleaning with plain cold tap water, as well.  I usually finish up with WD40 then apply a good gun oil.  I like Rig and also like Butch's.  For the outside metal & stock I use type F transmission fluid which was recommended to me years ago by a very good friend.  It absolutely protects the exterior metal and over time appears to add a sheen to the wood.

[Daryl]

I've a long-time friend here who makes exquisite rifles and who uses G96 on all his rifle's exteriors.

[hanshi]

Okay, I admit it.  I'm cheap.

[Dphariss]

After reading these various posts I've started cleaning with plain cold tap water, as well.  I usually finish up with WD40 then apply a good gun oil.  I like Rig and also like Butch's.  For the outside metal & stock I use type F transmission fluid which was recommended to me years ago by a very good friend.  It absolutely protects the exterior metal and over time appears to add a sheen to the wood.

Petroleum oil is a bad idea on wood.

Dan

[Daryl]

All tranny oils are synthetic, but I have noticed some people's use of motor oils in the bore. While they are mostly synthetic or partial synthetic today, any petrolium is a bad idea in or on a gun, as Dan says.

[hanshi]

Type "F" seems more "waxy" than oily.  From what I can find out it has a paraffin base or something similar.  It is definitely different from other trans fluids.  I've been using it (not in the bore) for about three years, now, and have had no problems.  In fact it seems to function as a furniture wax on the stock; at least I've noticed the wood becoming slightly smoother over time.  I wipe it on after cleaning then wipe it off the next day.  The stock stays very hard and the barrel bright.  It does prevent rust, I've found.  I prefer using it on the barrel rather than oil because I don't like for oil to get on the stock.

I would not experiment on my own but this advice came from a well known & well respected builder I know.  I on occasion use paste furniture wax on the wood, too.  To be honest, I'm always on the lookout for tips.  This forum has been full of them, cleaning, maintenance, etc.

[tg]

"any petrolium is a bad idea in or on a gun, "

Petro oil is not an issue in the bore if you clean it out before shooting, many have done this for decades, cold water with a bit of soap and some alcohol to finish up before lubing works well with no ill effects, there is likely enough finisj on a syock to prevent any damage from the tranny oil,I don't like any oil on bare wood, but there is no bare wood on my stocks except the rammer hole.IMO....those three letters would be a good way to end most post on this forum many post come across as 'The Fact" and there are many ways to skin a cat.

[Nate McKenzie]

This is good information and timely as I just used the last of my favorite SS-1 and SS-2 gun cleaner and rust preventative. They don't make it any more.

[hanshi]

I am careful about what I use on my guns and take all advice seriously.  I know what oils can do to wood and take great pains to avoid that.  So far I've been using the type F for several years with no problems.  To be honest it seems to work much like furniture wax.  I am just aware that it must be "type F" only and no other.

[duca]

balluistol does it all! lol. i use it and like it alot. it is also water solubule. did i spell that right? anyway its good for the whole gun.
                                  ........Anthony........

[Daryl]

Anyone know if Balistol will absorb water, being soluble in it?

[erdillonjr]

I have used WD40 for years and have had no rust problems at all.