Author Topic: Bone Black and Aqua Fortis  (Read 3368 times)

Offline Ray Settanta

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Bone Black and Aqua Fortis
« on: June 24, 2017, 02:13:06 AM »
I have a plain, very white maple stock that I will be finishing soon. If I don't like the color I get with the Aqua Fortis, can I just use boneblack over the top of it or does the stock have to be sanded or neutralized first?

Offline Ed Wenger

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Re: Bone Black and Aqua Fortis
« Reply #1 on: June 24, 2017, 03:27:25 AM »
Depends on how acidic the iron nitrate is, but probably a good idea to neutralize it.  Wipe the stock down with a cloth dampened with household ammonia, will do the trick.

You can certainly use bone black over the stain.  I wouldn't use just bone black, however.  I think it would work better for you by mixing the bone black with whatever you're going to finish the stock with.  By applying the mix in recessed areas and around carving, you can get some very nice depth, and variations of color.  Take a look at some of Jim Kibler's pieces, he's a master at it.


       Ed
Ed Wenger

Offline Waksupi

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Re: Bone Black and Aqua Fortis
« Reply #2 on: June 29, 2017, 05:25:52 PM »
Try first wiping the stock with a strong black tea solution, followed by a vinegar wipe, then the aquafortis. This brings out the red a bit more for me.
Ric Carter
Somers, Montana

Offline Ray Settanta

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Re: Bone Black and Aqua Fortis
« Reply #3 on: June 30, 2017, 07:06:37 PM »
Thanks for the info.

Offline Ray Settanta

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Re: Bone Black and Aqua Fortis
« Reply #4 on: June 30, 2017, 07:08:33 PM »
Try first wiping the stock with a strong black tea solution, followed by a vinegar wipe, then the aquafortis. This brings out the red a bit more for me.

Would this work on a maple stock with no curl? I do like a reddish stock.

Offline Tim Crosby

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Re: Bone Black and Aqua Fortis
« Reply #5 on: June 30, 2017, 07:35:52 PM »

Online rich pierce

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Re: Bone Black and Aqua Fortis
« Reply #6 on: June 30, 2017, 08:07:51 PM »
That does help!
Andover, Vermont

Offline Mauser06

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Re: Bone Black and Aqua Fortis
« Reply #7 on: June 30, 2017, 08:23:30 PM »
That Kibler rifle is as always caught my attention...as do many other guns finished with extremely dark areas and highlighted areas.


I don't fully understand the bone black method Kibler explains. To me, that'd build a dark finish on top of the wood over the entire piece. Or maybe he just does that over the areas he wants to have dark.


I used tannic acid and iron nitrate from Kibler on my first rifle and accidentally ended up highlighting areas and left others dark. I say accidentally because I didn't mean to... highlighted the cheek piece when I was rubbing out the acid stain. Was using finish oil and scotchbrite and removed too much color.

I think with a stronger tannic acid soak and a 2nd iron nitrate application that it likely will leave the stock about black...which can be rubbed out with scotchbrite and oil....I may try it on the next rifle...unless I can learn another way that is better. 


I've heard of a few methods. Some even use black spray paint I've heard...