Barrel browning + soldered lugs and sight

[g2608671@verizon.net]

Building a TOTW English Fowler and I had the front sight blade and the under lugs soldered on by them.  I want to brown the barrel but I am concerned that in the process of hot browning that I am going to melt the solder and lose the lugs and sight. Does anyone have any suggestions on how I should proceed / address this issue?
I did the hot browning process for the Kibler gun I did a few months ago and I really like the way it came out and found the whole browning process fun so I would like to do it again.  However, I am more than willing to try a different method if that is what it takes to preserve the lugs and sight.

[PPatch]

Stating the obvious - it is all about temperature, as in what temp does that solder they used melt at and how hot is the browning solution or process will be? You might give TOW a call and ask what temp solder they use for lugs and sights. If the two are close then you could cold brown, I like LMF browning solution (a lot).

dave

[smallpatch]

Simple answer.....cold brown.  It's WAAAAY more durable, AND much easier.

[Bill Raby]

smallpatch is right. Go with the cold brown. I think that it looks much nicer also.

[kutter]

Even if you use one of the quick brown formulas that require you to heat the metal before application of the soln,,you shouldn't heat to anywhere near the melting point of common soft solder (375/400F in the least).
Just warm uncomfortable to the touch is all you need to apply that stuff. Anything more is overkill and it just sizzles the soln on the surface. Satisfying to some as a false indication of extra robust rust formation I guess. But not needed at all for real world application.

Warming the metal in express rust bluing was/is generally done with nothing more than the heat it can absorb from being submerged in the boiling water tank. 212F is all it can go. Quick rust brown is no different and how you get to that temp matters little.

Slow rust brown (cold rust brown) avoids the heating issue. Slower but usually a better finish and whats the hurry anyway.

[g2608671@verizon.net]

Thanks to all; now I just need to decide on what cold browning stuff to use - Birchwood Casey or Laurel Mountain. 
BTW, after reading the responses, kind of sorry that I did not use cold browning on the Kibler.  Hind-sight is always 20/20 but this is one of the things that makes building these guns a challenge and an education is so many ways.

[davebozell]

I've used the Laurel Mountain product several times, and I really like it. 

[tuffy]

Laurel Mountain is the best way to go for cold browning.....great stuff.

             CW

[smallpatch]

LMF is what I've used for years.  Great stuff. Danglers also makes a good one.
As far as I know, Birchwood Casey makes only hot brown

[P.W.Berkuta]

Maybe "hot brown" is a misnomer and I don't understand the term When I think of this I think of rust bluing by using a browning or rust bluing solution then submerging in hot water (212 degrees). Birchwood Casey's Plum Barrel Brown is applied to a warm barrel which was heated "normally" with a heat gun (my process). I've used the old stuff and liked it. I have not tried the new formula stuff

[oldtravler61]

  When I brown a barrel I have used Birchwood Casey's an have had good success. Only heat the barrel till water sizzles when sprayed on. Then wipe down with oil. Comes out dark an even. Might not be the best way but I'm happy. Oldtravler

[taco650]

I used heat activated browning on a pistol barrel.  Only heated the barrel until the "colors" started moving.  I'm guessing that was about 220-250 max.  Solder melts at ~400, just below lead (650-700).  I think sights are silver soldered on which melts at a higher temp than lead.

[jerrywh]

 Ask Track what temp solder they used for the job.  It could even be tix which melts at about  275°. Don't guess.
 Of interest is the fact that solder melts at a higher temp the second time it is melted than it does the first time it is melted.

[g2608671@verizon.net]

Well after all the well thought out and helpful replies I am embarrassed to admit that I have had a change of heart about the browning finish.  I have decided to go with a classic finish preparation offered by Jim Kibler and put in an order for his Patina Solution.  I wanted to use it on the Kibler rifle I finished a few months ago but got infatuated with the idea of using browning and so this is what I did. Don't get me wrong here guys, I am not apologizing in the least for using anything Mr. Kibler offers but I do apologize for initiating what amounts to a wild-goose-chase.  However, I have learned a lot from the replies and will keep them recorded for future reference. 

[Daryl]

Ask Track what temp solder they used for the job.  It could even be tix which melts at about  275°. Don't guess.
 Of interest is the fact that solder melts at a higher temp the second time it is melted than it does the first time it is melted.

Thanks for that tidbit, Jerry. Your experience in these technicalities is a treasure.