Help me choose rasps

[Scota4570]

I want to buy some good rasps for stock work.  I am not sure the size or "grain".

I was thinking one big "hog" Like a 12" 8TPI Gramercy.  Then a couple smaller ones, 10" /25 Gramercy, and a 5"/ 25 Gramercy. 

Aurora also rates well. 

Any opinions on pointy rasps vs blunt tips?  I have never use pointed rasps.   I normally put some tape over the end and use both hands, like draw filing.  How does this work out with this pointy style of rasp?  I don't want to stab my hand. 

https://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/?ID=SRCH&Search=rasps

[Bill Raby]

   I am interested to see the answers here as well. I have heard that Nicholson and those Japanese rasps are pretty good and the price is reasonable. Grobet makes excellent files but I have never used their rasps. I have never used the hand made rasps either. Just wondering if it is worth double to triple the price.

[moleeyes36]

Everyone has their "druthers" but the Iwasaki rasps are excellent and very reasonably priced.  Dollar for dollar I don't think they can be beat.  http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=44348.msg434052#msg434052

Mole Eyes

[PPatch]

The Aurora's cost more but are better than the Gramercy rasps in my opinion, I bought a 9 grain Aurora, was impressed, then a 7 grain which has never cut all that well. I purchased a tapered round Gramercy that isn't worth a flip. Those Iwasaki rasps are go getters and cut quickly leaving a relatively smooth surface, I recommend them. The half-rounds cut like the dickens.

dave

[Dennis Glazener]

Everyone has their "druthers" but the Iwasaki rasps are excellent and very reasonably priced.  Dollar for dollar I don't think they can be beat.  http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=44348.msg434052#msg434052

Mole Eyes

I will second Mole Eyes statement, not even looking at dollars I think the one I bought is the best cutting rasp I have ever purchased. I will get others as I wear my old rasps out. If I don't wait until they wear out I would quit using them in favor of the new Iwasaki's and that's not good business.
Dennis

[Scota4570]

Ok the  Iwasaki,

How about the big roughing tool,  for making square stock blanks, not square...

12" Auriou  but what grain?  I used to use a power plane, but no longer have access.   

Scot

[ScottH]

These have been posted on this forum in the past and look interesting to me as well as affordable.
They could fit for some long rifle building applications.

http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Types_of_Tools/Files/Dragon_Hand-cut_Rasp.html

[Scota4570]

I'm just chasing my tail on choosing.  I have a Nicholson 10" cabinet rasp, machine stitched.  A samller nicholson and a simmonds.  All hardware store junk.  I want something the same or larger, 1/2 round, that cuts at least as fast.  I'm thinking a big 9 grain Aurora. 

Iwasaki???  Those are not stitched rasps.   The ones I am looking at are smaller and often with a metric description.  What ones to get.  Do they make a big aggressive one?  They mostly look small. 

https://www.japanwoodworker.com/products/iwasaki-10-flat-bastard-file?via=58923197617070231a00002d%2C58923197617070231a000035

I don't have much in my rasp line up and willing to spend what is needed to put together a good lineup.  I do a lot of my stocks from a blank and band saw them.  I am not worried about touching up precarves.   

[smallpatch]

Iwasakis are the most aggressive rasp I've ver used. 
Takes a light touch, and leaves a smooth surface.  Guess that s why they are called carving rasps.
You'll need both hands for the Med and Coarse ones.
I use the flat and half round.  The only other I'd like to have, is a tapered, half round, or barrette ( I think that's right)

[KentSmith]

I almost remarked that there was no need to bother about what tools to use when you can just save your money and by one of Jim's kits and put the puzzle together but then rethought the post as it might sound sarcastic and I don't want to come across that way.

I have an Iwasaki, a couple old #49 and #50's and a couple Aurora's and a few frenchies I forget how to spell.  All are great, all can get you where you need to be.  All cost money.  I don't know of anywhere you can go and try one - I mean pick one up and feel how it fits in your hand and how it cuts, understandably, but that is what I have found to be most important. I might use everyone of 6 different rasps on a stock depending on what I am trying to do or I could have saved my money and stuck to the #49 and #50.  Everybody is in a hurry. Planes and blades cut cleaner.

.

[sz]

These:
https://www.anvilbrand.com/Vallorbe-Hoof-Rasp-Hoof-Rasp-P500.aspx

https://www.anvilbrand.com/14-Black-Half-Round-Rasp-Simonds-Maxi-Sharp-P346.aspx

[L. Akers]

How about the big roughing tool,  for making square stock blanks, not square...

For this purpose I use a drawknife.  It removes wood much faster with less effort than a rasp.

[Ray Settanta]

Amongst hand tool woodworkers, the traditional rasps with the best reputations are the Logier and the Auriou. For roughing out a blank the Auriou 12" Cabinet Maker's Rasp, 4 Grain would be very good. For furniture making, 9 or 10 grain is considered to be somewhat coarse so a 4 grain would be very coarse. BTW, I hold my pointy rasps from the side not the front so the point is not a problem. Nicholson #49 and #50 Patternmaker's Rasps used to be good when they were made in the U.S. but now their quality has suffered and most woodworkers say they are not very good. Some tool suppliers have even stopped carrying them.

[Dan Fruth]

I purchased Auriou rasps for the simple reason they cut like crazy and because the teeth are set in such a way as they won't tear out the wood on the back side of the cut. Here is a link to a site comparing Nickolson #49 and #50 to Auriou .
http://www.craftsmanstudio.com/category-s/248.htm?searching=Y&sort=2&cat=248&show=12&page=2

[Scota4570]

How about the big roughing tool,  for making square stock blanks, not square...

For this purpose I use a drawknife.  It removes wood much faster with less effort than a rasp.

I do the same on walnut.  I am very fond of my spoke shave.  Those tools make a mess of curley maple. 


"I almost remarked that there was no need to bother about what tools to use when you can just save your money and by one of Jim's kits and put the puzzle together but then rethought the post as it might sound sarcastic and I don't want to come across that way."

I've assembled two of his kits.  I think they are fantastic.  He is a major positive force in the hobby.  He is taking over for the older generation as they fade away.  He is doing it better than 98% of them ever did too.  I do not understand  snarkey attitude about a his kits, or kits in general.  Not everyone is interested, or capable of,  re-inventing the ca. 1770 wheel, everytime they build a rifle.  Truth be told nearly nobody really does it exclusively the old ways. 

Anyway, off topic, I guess  I'll just take my best guess and buy some rasps. 

Thanks all

[Scota4570]

I ordered a fancy expensive auiora and a couple of the Japanese one.

In the meantime, yesterday I was at the feed store.  I asked to look a the hoof rasps.  They were very sharp and large.  I bought two, they do work very well indeed. 

[deepcreekdale]

I have an old Nicholson hoof rasp that I have used for over 40 years. Will rasp through the hardest maple stock blank in about 2 minutes. Still has the $9.95 price sticker on it. Sigh.

[Eric Smith]

I have a few of the Auriou rasps and they are great. Best money I ever spent for shaping a blank of maple. I use the # 49 and #50 when I am working on something where I just need any rasp. Auriou, get you some.