Breech plug removal

[okawbow]

I like to fit the plug so I have to turn it the last 1/8" after the face of the plug touches the shoulder. A 10" wrench is just right. No hammers or cheater pipes needed.

[rich pierce]

Bob, such extreme methods are needed because breeches barrels from most makers require great force in un-breeching. I haven't bought an unbreeched barrel in years. But I prefer that putting the barrel in a normal vice and using a monkey wrench on the plug be able to do the job.

Not to get off topic but I got to handle and cycle one of your locks on Saturday. Wow.

[Bob Roller]

Bob, such extreme methods are needed because breeches barrels from most makers require great force in un-breeching. I haven't bought an unbreeched barrel in years. But I prefer that putting the barrel in a normal vice and using a monkey wrench on the plug be able to do the job.

Not to get off topic but I got to handle and cycle one of your locks on Saturday. Wow.

Rich,
Thanks for the reply.Many thanks for the kind remark about my lock.
Was it a flint or cap lock? I am not making any locks now and at 81
I am bothered with cataracts that are not yet "ripe". A real pain in the
fanny. MAYBE at a later date I might make a lock or trigger but now
is out.

Bob Roller

[Mike Brooks]

I've always wondered the same thing Bob. Back some years ago Don Getz told me he used to watch Kit Ravenshire chase out threads on his repro brown bess breech plugs with a dremmel tool  to make them removable by hand, no tools.
 On really cranky breech plugs I run both a die over the plug and a tap in the barrel. Always surprising how much material was removed. Still have to use a wrench, but only to snug it up that last 1/8 of a turn. Still doesn't help you with getting them out the 1st time, but they don't give you troubles there after.

[Bob Roller]

I've always wondered the same thing Bob. Back some years ago Don Getz told me he used to watch Kit Ravenshire chase out threads on his repro brown bess breech plugs with a dremmel tool  to make them removable by hand, no tools.
 On really cranky breech plugs I run both a die over the plug and a tap in the barrel. Always surprising how much material was removed. Still have to use a wrench, but only to snug it up that last 1/8 of a turn. Still doesn't help you with getting them out the 1st time, but they don't give you troubles there after.

I have also redone both the barrel and plug threads with the same results.
One thing is sure.A round ball or a long bullet with a correct powder charge
will move the ball or bullet OUT of the barrel and the plug will still be in place.

Bob Roller

[rich pierce]

I also have a neat breech plug tool that has a tapered a lot and a "thumb" sticking up that fits a piece of pipe. Nice thing is it does not mar the breechplug at all.

Bob, it was a round tailed percussion lock for a Hawken. Tell the truth all these years I wondered what all the talk was about Roller locks. And now I know!  Wish I'd gotten one while you were still making them. Hope the eyes improve.

[Mike Brooks]

I also have a neat breech plug tool that has a tapered a lot and a "thumb" sticking up that fits a piece of pipe. Nice thing is it does not mar the breechplug at all.

Bob, it was a round tailed percussion lock for a Hawken. Tell the truth all these years I wondered what all the talk was about Roller locks. And now I know!  Wish I'd gotten one while you were still making them. Hope the eyes improve.

I've gotten to use some of Bob's locks over the years, never used better. The next gun on the bench has a Roller lock....if I ever get back to my bench again!

[Goo]

Has anyone mentioned the obvious yet?  If the barrel is tapered it won't allow the vise jaws to get a good grip on the barrel because they only make good contact on the widest point of the barrel.    You need to compensate with a swivel jaw attachment or insert wedges to get a solid hold on the barrel.

I don't have much trouble with the barrel taper.

What sort of vise ? Do your vise jaws have much play or wiggle ?

[bama]

All good information about removing the breech plug. I have aluminum vice jaws that work well but I have found that aluminum gets inbedded onto the sides of the barrel in the clamping process. I was not getting a good browning on the clamped area of the barrel for this reason. If you use aluminum vice jaws be sure to draw file the barrel good after putting the plug in for the last time.

[mustanggt]

I'm glad I ran into this thread. I put lead strips in the vice jaws and put the 10" Crescent on the plug and whacked it with a 3# hammer. Easy. I could have had this thing done by now if I didn't let it kick my arse. 

[AeroE]

The friction in threaded joints can be broken by tapping on the fastener head, shank, or in this situation, the end of the plug.

Apply torque, then light rapid tap, tap, tap with a hammer.  Might need a helper.


Tapered vise jaw inserts were standard equipment in old gunmithing shops, but the gunsmith probably had to make his own.

[Three Steps]

I use aluminum sheets about 3/32" thick in the vise jaws. Then use Hoppes #9 to remove the aluminum marks on the barrel. I also have an old 9" heavy money wrench that I ground the bottom jaw to match the taper of the breech plug. I don't know why some barrels are so tight. Just a good snug will seal the face of the breach plug against the bore. Even if it was finger tight and with the tang inletted and bolted into the stock it is not going anywhere. I have worked on several old rifles that the plug was finger tight, either made that way or worn. I think in the old days that way if you loaded without powder just had to take out the barrel and pull the plug to remove the ball. No vise necessary. I read a 1700's account (didn't save it so can't cite) where the leader of an ambush told the men to make sure their wiping stick was out of the barrel and the breech plugs were loose in case of a loading mistake.