Flat file recommendations

[mustanggt]

I got a Chambers kit a year and a half ago. I got all the books and videos a guy could want and went to town learning well before the kit arrived. I got the kit and started on the barrel. It had quite a few machining marks that needed to be taken out. I went after it draw filing and using some Dykem to help me find the low spots. Long story short I thought I did pretty good but there are waves in the barrel from my poor filing job. I set that aside and haven't touched it in a year. I feel like making another attempt to get going on it. I saw somewhere a guy was using a long (12-14") flat file with a fine cut for smoothing out a barrel and thought this might help me recover from my mistakes. Would that be a benefit to me and what exactly should I get and from where. Thanks for your help.

[rich pierce]

It sounds like you did a lot of filing. All I want to do is get rid of any tool marks and get a nice clean surface. Sounds more like technique than tool in this case.

[flehto]

I just use a 6"  mill bastard file and get most of the machining marks off. The remaining shallow ones disappear after the browning. The etched, matte browning and the thin rust layer make the machining marks invisible......Fred

[mustanggt]

How would you recommend me to try lessening or eliminating the waves? It makes sense to me to have a long file to feather them out. I really want this to turn out well. Thank you

[Goo]

Can you post a close up shot?

[mustanggt]

I will give it a try. With all the photobucket nonsense I have to go out and find a replacement for them.

[rich pierce]

You don't need photobucket.  Just below the open box where you post a reply is a button for Add image to post.

[Ric27]

If you have somehow gotten dips and high spots in you barrel you are approaching draw filling incorrectly. First off just to be clear, draw filling is done with a mill file placed directly cross ways at 90 degrees to the barrel. then filing inline with the barrel while applying moderate pressure on strokes of say 6-8". Carding (cleaning) you file as you go. If you have managed dips and high spots you will have to level those by working the high spots down.

[Scota4570]

http://www.cripedistributing.com/files/johnson-ft70212-14-mill-bastard-file-usa.html

Get one or two of these. 

Put the barrel in a padded vice.  Arrange a light so the reflection reflects the glint of the finish.  You don't need Dyechem.  Place the file on the top flat.  Tang to the left, hold the blunt end in the right hand.  Hold it as close to level as you can.  Apply moderate to light pressure,  pull the file toward you. You will get a feel for how much is needed.  Too much and the file pins, too little an it does not cut.  You should get shavings tha look like steel wool.  Move the file over a half an inch to get a fresh spot, take another stroke.  Occasionally i do use a sharpie marker to see if I am flat on the flat if I can not see it.  Once filed properly the reflection glint will not show any original tool marks. 

On the barrels Kilber supplies it takes about three strokes in a particular spot to eliminate the manufacturer's tool mark.  The file will leave a finish about like 150 grit sandpaper.  After I drawfile I rub it lengthwise with burgandy Scotchbrite.  Done.  It takes less than an hour to do the exposed flats. 

it sounds like you were pushing the file along it's length.  Never do that on a barrel. 

[mustanggt]

it sounds like you were pushing the file along it's length.  Never do that on a barrel.

That's what I did. I thought that would be the proper way to do it. Long length to file long strokes is what my pea brain said to do.  Thank you for the link.