Linseed oil questions

[utseabee]

I have a few questions about linseed oil finishes. I get different answers on some of these all the time. Which do you prefer, raw or boiled? Does anyone still make a leaded linseed oil?  I used some of Jim Kibler's leaded oil finish and liked it a lot, but that doesn't seem to be available anymore. What would be the most traditional oil finish? Any input is appreciated.
Thank you
John

[Ric27]

I will try and post something about this tomorrow. To late now to get into it.
R

[Hungry Horse]

Use boiled linseed oil. Add Japan drier to it. Give it plenty of time in the sun between coats to insure complete drying. I add bees wax to the mixture for the last several coats, and rub it in by hand.

  Hungry Horse

[Ray Settanta]

I use boiled linseed oil because the raw linseed oil takes too long to dry for my purposes.

[Mike Brooks]

Since nobody else is saying anything ...... I'd not use it as a wood finish.

[utseabee]

Since nobody else is saying anything ...... I'd not use it as a wood finish.

Mike,

     What type of finish do you use on your rifles? I'm open to all suggestions.
Thanks
John

[Mike Brooks]

Since nobody else is saying anything ...... I'd not use it as a wood finish.

Mike,

     What type of finish do you use on your rifles? I'm open to all suggestions.
Thanks
John

I use Formby's tung oil finish to seal it all up then rub in lots of Bri Wax.

[utseabee]

Since nobody else is saying anything ...... I'd not use it as a wood finish.

Mike,

     What type of finish do you use on your rifles? I'm open to all suggestions.
Thanks
John

I use Formby's tung oil finish to seal it all up then rub in lots of Bri Wax.

Thanks Mike

[WadePatton]

Hey John, if you dig around just a little bit you'll find dozens of options to choose from. There are many and it has been bantered about here a time or two or seventeen.

I would only use linseed oil as Dan Phariss describes, which is somewhat modified from out of the can. And then there are other options.  I'm no expert on any of them, so I'll leave you to read the words of the exerts.  I have beeswax on mine.

I do use linseed oil on metal quite a bit.  Love it on threads, especially the wee ones. Keeps 'em tight, but not too much (and clean).

Cheers, WP

Since nobody else is saying anything ...... I'd not use it as a wood finish.

Mike,

     What type of finish do you use on your rifles? I'm open to all suggestions.
Thanks
John

[smylee grouch]

Most of the time people mention boiled or raw linseed oil but I thought I had read it here about the use of pressed linseed oil. Can anyone elaborate on pressed linseed oil?

[Ric27]

utseabee,
Much has been said here and else where about the impracticability of using boiled linseed oil as a finish. I struggled with it for a sometime when I first got started building because that is what Hershel  House used on his video. Some where along the line I was introduced to a guy in So. Carolina who is a custom (there that work again) cabinet/furniture maker who after coming to the end of his rope with the finishes available researched and developed his own line of Linseed baced finishes which he produced himself under the brand name, Tried and True. He has sense sold the Finishing line to a company named Lee Valley. www.leevalley.com There are three varieties of oil finishes offered, I use the Varnish Oil. Described thusly on the website.

 "Varnish Oil
The Varnish Oil is a combination of highly refined polymerized linseed oil and natural-resin varnish (modified pine sap). Its high resin content produces a durable water-resistant finish that buffs to a warm semi-gloss sheen."     

It is time consuming taking a couple of weeks to build up a finish. But it is beautiful and durable. It was described to me originally by the maker as a carriage varnish for use on a horse carriage to hold up out doors in the weather. This is high end stuff for someone who willing to put the time in. A pint of this stuff is under $25 and would probably be enough to finish 50 guns. If you get this stuff PM me and I will go through just how I use it.
     

[J.E. Moore]

I made up a small bottle of about 3/4 boiled linseed oil, and right at 1/4 turpentine with a couple drops of Japan dryer. The wax I used after the many thin coats of oil was dry is mixture of clear kiwi boot polish and Johnson's paste with a tad pure beeswax melted together in one tin.

[utseabee]

utseabee,
Much has been said here and else where about the impracticability of using boiled linseed oil as a finish. I struggled with it for a sometime when I first got started building because that is what Hershel  House used on his video. Some where along the line I was introduced to a guy in So. Carolina who is a custom (there that work again) cabinet/furniture maker who after coming to the end of his rope with the finishes available researched and developed his own line of Linseed baced finishes which he produced himself under the brand name, Tried and True. He has sense sold the Finishing line to a company named Lee Valley. www.leevalley.com There are three varieties of oil finishes offered, I use the Varnish Oil. Described thusly on the website.

 "Varnish Oil
The Varnish Oil is a combination of highly refined polymerized linseed oil and natural-resin varnish (modified pine sap). Its high resin content produces a durable water-resistant finish that buffs to a warm semi-gloss sheen."     

It is time consuming taking a couple of weeks to build up a finish. But it is beautiful and durable. It was described to me originally by the maker as a carriage varnish for use on a horse carriage to hold up out doors in the weather. This is high end stuff for someone who willing to put the time in. A pint of this stuff is under $25 and would probably be enough to finish 50 guns. If you get this stuff PM me and I will go through just how I use it.
   

Funny, you mentioned tried and true. I just picked up a pint of the traditional finish today at wood craft. That is the polymerized oil with the beeswax in it. Jim parker had some of that when I was at his kit building class. Figured I would give it a try. I pick up a pint of the varnish oil also. Do you know if it can be used if there are already several coats f another oil already on the rifle?
Thanks
John

[dogcatcher]

A man named Russ Fairfield wrote a big "dissertation" about finishes on a forum called Wood Central.  Here is the link to the article.  http://www.woodcentral.com/russ/russ3.shtml   

Here are the links to the oil finishes.
Tung Oil        http://www.woodcentral.com/russ/finish6.shtml
Wipe-On Varnishes and Oils         http://www.woodcentral.com/russ/finish7.shtml

The MSDS sheet for the Tried and True said it contained 80% modified BLO and 20% Sylvetac Resin.
Modified BLO is usually diluted BLO using mineral spirits or turpentine.  The Syletac is the trade name for turpentine based varnish.   

I have chased the "magic" woodworkers finishes for over 50 years.  If a finish has been sold, most like I have bought it,  I have made a few hundred "secret" concoctions that are only known to God.  Today for an oil finish, I mix BLO, turpentine or mineral spirits and a good brand of spar varnish.  I only mix up a small amount at a time, it will cure in the can if not used soon enough.  I buy the BLO and turpentine at a big box store, a 32oz cost about $8, 32oz of turpentine costs $7 and a 16oz of Helmans Spar varnish is $16. 

To mix it, I look at the MSDS sheet of the one I want to copy, in this case 80 20.  The 80%, I would add in what I feel is a good amount of turpentine or mineral spirits.  I usually start with about 2 to 1, 2 parts of BLO and 1 part of mineral spirits.  Then the 20% varnish. 

I had a note book with all of these combinations, but because of health issues, and my shop being closed it was lost in history,  If you go with trying home brewed finishes, TAKE NOTES, your memory is not as good as you think.  This way if you like a ratio, you can easily duplicate it 2 years from now. 

My method of finishes is the Frank Whiton Classic Gunstock Finish.  No it is not classic as in the 1700's, but his name for it and used on modern day weapons.  https://www.firearmsforum.com/firearms/article/3037          If you read his method, you will see that he dilutes it for the first coats, I mix mixed small bottles for each ration.  Keep the bottles out of the sunlight and in a cool place. 

Cost of the above, $31, and I have enough to make 64oz of finish.  Unmixed, the only ingredient that will go bad is the varnish, so I buy the smallest cans.  I have used this finish on just about everything, from furniture to cabinets, to gunstocks. 

[Ric27]

Funny, you mentioned tried and true. I just picked up a pint of the traditional finish today at wood craft. That is the polymerized oil with the beeswax in it. Jim parker had some of that when I was at his kit building class. Figured I would give it a try. I pick up a pint of the varnish oil also. Do you know if it can be used if there are already several coats f another oil already on the rifle?
Thanks
John

I tried the Traditional Finish and liked the finish if built up. The problem with the finish with the wax in it is it becomes sticky when it gets warm outside.

[Ric27]

Basically we are looking for a finish that looks great and holds up. There are many ways to achieve that end. The looking good part has a lot more to do with how the wood is prepared and then how the finish is applied. 

[Mark Elliott]

I have used a mixture for years that has worked well for me and I see no reason to change.  It is equall parts BLO, tung oil, and Danish oil with the appropriate amount of Japan drier.   It builds up fast is relatively hard when dry and rubbed out.   The wood needs to be well whiskered and burnished before applying lots of very thin coats.   I will put the stock in the sun to dry quickly between coats.

[flehto]

Tried BLO once and never again.....never dries completely and takes way too much time. Don't think the original makers used the stuff because they had to make a living and having LRs basking in the sun defers payment.

I guess we all have our "pet" finishes  and it's not only the finish used, but also the application procedure that produces a quick drying, long lasting finish.

After staining, a brisk rub down w/ 0000 steel wool really smoothes the surface and removes any unabsorbed alcohol based stain and errant whiskers  followed by a vacuuming. 2-3 liberal wipe on/wipe off coats of LMF sealer and an absorption time of approx. 5-10 mins and then a  complete dry between coats and after the last coat is dry, another brisk rubdown w/ steel wool....don't want any finish on the surface, only in the wood.

2-3 very sparse, finger rubbed in coats of Wahkon Bay Trucoat  w/ a complete dry between coats yields a dull finish that requires rubbing w/ a fluffy towel to bring out a low sheen....w/o resorting to pumice or steel wool. .....Fred

 




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[n stephenson]

Finding a finish is about like dressing a beautiful woman. Some want a long dress , some want a skirt , some a pants suit. A complete book could be written on just the finishes on longrifles alone. I used BLO once , I did not have the driers , etc. After about a month I finally got the goo off of it. With all the good finishes available I don`t make my own , but there are lots of good finishes that people here do make.

[SingleMalt]

I've made (cooked) varnish with BLO, lead oxide, and mineral spirits.  It yields a nice oil-based varnish that actually dried in a reasonable time.  BLO alone is a joke.  Never dries fully, turns to goo in wet weather, and always feels sticky.  If you want an oil based varnish without getting too exotic, I'd recommend Tru-Oil.  Cut one bottle 50% with turpentine to fill grain, and another uncut to finish.  Apply very thin coats of both.

[utseabee]

Thanks for all the information

[PPatch]

Thanks for all the information

Whoa... want to wade through 565 other threads on "linseed oil?" Just do a search here on ALR on it. The subject is often discussed here.

dave

[Ric27]

If you are having trouble with any oil finish not drying try putting way less on in the first place and then after about an 30-60min. wipe it down DRY of any oil showing on the wiping cloth, wait 24 hrs and do it again. In applying oil finishes it is not posable to apply it to lightly. Some finish is enough no matter how thin a coat. 

[smallpatch]

I still don't understand why we continuously look for more difficult ways to finish a gun.  There are so many, easy to use finishes on the market, yet we look for something that takes weeks to a year to build up a finish on wood. 
I use Chambers  and some times spar varnish.  Easy, beautiful, and durable with about three or four coats.
Come on guys, do we really think original makers spent a month or more putting finish on the wood?
Carry on guys.

[WadePatton]

I still don't understand why we continuously look for more difficult ways to finish a gun...
Carry on guys.

Well the OP asked, and a couple of us tried to gently urge him, and others who've missed them, to seek out the volumes heretofore written on the subject at this very location. And then others threw on their latest views.

Personally I think that "rolling our own" finishing oils is most like the makers of olde. I doubt they were buying Tru-oil off the pegboard at the mercantile.  (note I am not disparaging any pre-made product on the market here.) But that they were modifying the various oils and varnishes and such that was available to them, as they saw fit to make a durable and good-looking finish in a workmanlike manner, in workshop conditions no less.

So I really like seeing various "recipes" those here find useful and "note" them as something to try when they don't sound too intricate, fiddly, or labor-intensive. 

Good finishes are out there, ready to use. 

And others will always be 'spearmintin' with stuff.     Suit yourself-there's room for everybody.