So you did the AF thing,blushed...........

[Joe S.]

Whats you going to put on it to make the curl POP.Seems most don't like BLO,takes to long,doesn't dry,need to put to much into it to get a durable finish,ect.So what's your best choice,keeping in mind I know we are beating a dead horse.I just figured since folks are bringing up the BLO,tell us your go to bring out the curl treatment.I'm getting close to finish stage on mine,I'm still on the fence,have plenty of cut offs to practice on and plenty of time,just figured we put it all out on one post.Sorry to put you thru more done to death subjects but.............

[ScottH]

I used Jim Chambers oil finish, a little shiny on the final coat but I rubbed that out easy enough. 

[Ky-Flinter]

I have found AF is what makes the curl "pop".  After blushing, if the color doesn't suit me I will apply some thinned out LMF Nut Brown, sometimes with a drop of LMF cherry for more red tone.  If it gets too dark rub it back with denatured alcohol.  Finish with Jim Chambers oil finish.

-Ron

[Joe S.]

I was thinking about do a little playing around with different things like dyes,stains ect.after the blushing to see whats going to look best on my stock.Plenty of scrap cut offs to play with.

[Mauser06]

I'm no pro...but read up on making curly maple pop prior to finishing mine. 


A big part of it IMO is a scraped finish..not sanded. A clean scraped finish leaves the woods clean and open. Sanding, the dust  clogs the pores and IMO muddys the end result. You loose the clarity and depth...and holographic effects..

I use Chambers oil finish as well...I really like it. Easy to work with. Can gloss it as shiny as you want or knock it back easily. 

I used scotchbrite....I think blue to knock back some of the stain..then soaked the stock in oil heavily..rubbing it with a soaked cloth every few minutes till it seemed like it was done soaking it up then rubbed it clean... let it dry well...then apply light costs as you see fit. 


Some will argue and show proof of nice sanded stocks...I can't achieve the same look when I sand and finish the same way though...

[Mike Brooks]

Formby's Tung Oil Finnish for a sealer. Steel wooled back then several coats of Bri Wax. I hit my stuff with an occasional coat of Bri wax every now and then.

[WKevinD]

Formby's Tung Oil Finnish for a sealer. Steel wooled back then several coats of Bri Wax. I hit my stuff with an occasional coat of Bri wax every now and then.

Mike, you've mentioned using Bri Wax a few times, do you use clear or tinted, do you use toluene free?

Kevin

[Mike Brooks]

It's a colored paste wax. I use black or brown. I think I finally ran out of black and am now using brown, can't tell any difference on the stock.
 I don't know what "toluene" is.......

[WKevinD]

It's a colored paste wax. I use black or brown. I think I finally ran out of black and am now using brown, can't tell any difference on the stock.
 I don't know what "toluene" is.......

Thanks, the toluene is a solvent Bri Wax says it's available with or without.
Kevin

[Marcruger]

Hi Mike, Toluene is a clear solvent.  Mt brother-in-law worked in oil refining, and said it came off the top of the tower when crude oil was distilled.  Sort of like super high-grade gasoline or lighter-fluid if I recall correctly.

I have used the Formby's Tung Oil on projects too, and find it to be pretty easy to work with.  I use the Low Gloss version, but it seems to make little difference if someone builds up coats (both types get glossy as layers are added). 

Best wishes, and God Bless,  Marc

[Mike Brooks]

Hi Mike, Toluene is a clear solvent.  Mt brother-in-law worked in oil refining, and said it came off the top of the tower when crude oil was distilled.  Sort of like super high-grade gasoline or lighter-fluid if I recall correctly.

I have used the Formby's Tung Oil on projects too, and find it to be pretty easy to work with.  I use the Low Gloss version, but it seems to make little difference if someone builds up coats (both types get glossy as layers are added). 

Best wishes, and God Bless,  Marc

Yep, both glossy and non glossy end up glossy if you put on enough. I just get a surface built up with it and everything sealed then steel wool it back.

[Clear Spring Armory]

It would be interesting to see a piece of test wood sanded and scraped, with a drawn line between the two to see the difference

[Mike Brooks]

It would be interesting to see a piece of test wood sanded and scraped, with a drawn line between the two to see the difference

Would be an excellent project for you . Then you could show us all the results!

[Joe S.]

Quess your experiance with it is not enough Mike

[Mike Brooks]

Quess your experiance with it is not enough Mike

I only have dim memories of Aquafarts these days. I quit using it when WakonBay stopped making it.