Square vs round patches

[Lee44shootercnb]

I cut mine at the muzzle.  Always have, always will.

[Black Hand]

I cut mine at the muzzle.  Always have, always will.

Started that way then found pre-cut patches were far more convenient, faster and didn't get dirty the way a strip of pre-lubed material would. I also realized that I disliked the flavor/feeling of the dry cloth in my mouth....

[bones92]

Okay, I have picked up a couple types of pillow ticking, both 100% cotton, one a bit heavier than the other.

Also, my 1.25" hollow punch arrived.   I've taken a few stabs at punching out patches.  I tried using a short piece of 4x4" as a backer and giving the punch a few good hits.  It cuts about 70% of a circle, but I think the wood is a bit too soft.  Conversely, I don't want to use a metal backing (i.e. the flat top of my vise) either, as it will dull the punch.

What is the best backer?  I think someone here mentioned HDPE (high density polyethylene).   It has to be fairly rigid without dulling the punch.

[Mike Brooks]

I would think a block of lead would work well.

[Black Hand]

Okay, I have picked up a couple types of pillow ticking, both 100% cotton, one a bit heavier than the other.

Also, my 1.25" hollow punch arrived.   I've taken a few stabs at punching out patches.  I tried using a short piece of 4x4" as a backer and giving the punch a few good hits.  It cuts about 70% of a circle, but I think the wood is a bit too soft.  Conversely, I don't want to use a metal backing (i.e. the flat top of my vise) either, as it will dull the punch.

What is the best backer?  I think someone here mentioned HDPE (high density polyethylene).   It has to be fairly rigid without dulling the punch.

End-grain of a hardwood 4x4.

[bones92]

Thanks, Mike and Black Hand.  I'll try those.

Lead is actually a great idea.  And I just happen to have some ingots.

[bones92]

I think the 4x4 lumber around here is mainly pine.

But I did try using lead and it seems to work well.   Plus, if you pound a bunch of rings into the lead, the surface of the lead block can be dressed up with the hand sledge.

[Daryl]

Okay, I have picked up a couple types of pillow ticking, both 100% cotton, one a bit heavier than the other.

Also, my 1.25" hollow punch arrived.   I've taken a few stabs at punching out patches.  I tried using a short piece of 4x4" as a backer and giving the punch a few good hits.  It cuts about 70% of a circle, but I think the wood is a bit too soft.  Conversely, I don't want to use a metal backing (i.e. the flat top of my vise) either, as it will dull the punch.

What is the best backer?  I think someone here mentioned HDPE (high density polyethylene).   It has to be fairly rigid without dulling the punch.

End-grain of a hardwood 4x4.

Guys, get a piece of 2" thick, UHMW or HDPE from a  plastics shop for cutting patches on, using arch punches.  It will cost very little and will last decades.

[WadePatton]

Okay...What is the best backer?  I think someone here mentioned HDPE (high density polyethylene).   It has to be fairly rigid without dulling the punch.

End-grain of a hardwood 4x4.

Guys, get a piece of 2" thick, UHMW or HDPE from a  plastics shop for cutting patches on, using arch punches.  It will cost very little and will last decades.

Ain't y'all got no firewood? or saws?     a few inches off the end of a some bodock would be my punching surface.  I already have a few bits of that laying around. 

In fact, smoothed up nicely (which can be a real chore)--makes one of the finest functioning/looking food-prep cutting/chopping boards you've ever seen.  I'll make a pic someday.  Be warned that if you cut it off green, it will split radially-the secret trick is finding old dead, pre-seasoned/checked wood in the log to play with.

Or also, if you don't live near industry-I think that plastic referred to above would be the same as is in the plastic cutting/chopping board that's out there in the rain where I dress fish. 

Of course I cut at the muzzle. 

[hanshi]

We had a big hickory tree fall a few years ago.  A neighbor sawed in into sections to split for firewood.  I got one that sits level and use it to punch felt, etc.  Works great so I aim to try punching patches on it.  If that doesn't work out I have an old plastic cutting board standing by.

[smylee grouch]

How many patches do you cut at a time with the arch punches?

[bones92]

Ironically, there was a 4"x6" piece of some kind of synthetic material mounted to the bow of my boat... the previous owner left it on there after taking the trolling motor off.

Anyway, I suddenly remembered it, and took it off.  It's a very dense plastic of some kind, about 3/4" thick.  I assume it is either HDPE or UMHW.  I tried punching out some patches of ticking and it seemed to work well.  There are faint rings left where it struck.

The lead does work well, too.

[JohnnyFM]

Lead block is traditional for cordwainers/leather workers for punching leather so would be good for cloth.  As WadePatton stated, the plastic cutting boards (milky white color) works good too.

[Jack Romanchock]

it would be a disservice to carry a patch knife and not use it. mine has worked very well since 1969

[bones92]

Jack, I don't have a patch-knife....

[Black Hand]

Jack, I don't have a patch-knife....

Neither do I.
I carry a belt knife, a folding knife and a penny knife - no patch knife....

A patch knife must be a knife invented by modern vendors to scam people out of their hard-earned money when they already have many serviceable knives at the ready. 

[410-er]

Used scissors in the past but this paper cutter I found really makes nice cuts and has a ruler at top for measurements!
Pictures 659 by t410er, on Flickr

[Daryl]

How many patches do you cut at a time with the arch punches?

Usually up to 10 or 12 layers, so 3 whacks, 10 patches, move the punch, 3 whacks, 10 patches, etc.

The cutting boards are too thin for me.  The HDPE or UHMW (about the same stuff & is used for cutting boards) in 2" to 2 1/2" thick, is perfect.

[Scota4570]

Converted hole saw?  Grid off the teeth. Grind a bevel, sharpen on the gun polishing wheel.  Run in drill press on slow speed.  Back with  a scrap of wood found on the floor.  Fold the patching material to make it many layers thick.

I made several cotters out of different size old hole saws that I got for 50-cents each at the used tool monger.   

I just cut a couple of hundred patches yesterday AM while waiting on my shooing partner to show up, 10 min? 

I do prefer swaged balls with pre-cut patches.  Fiddling with sprues and centering patches is annoying. 

[hanshi]

Today I tried punching out patches; first on a the end grain of a dried section cut from a hickory and then a heavy lead plate.  It worked, after a fashion, but required up to 10 blows from my "dead blow" hammer.  I have two sets of punches.  I was unimpressed. 

[Black Hand]

Rip and cut....

[little joe]

Do whatever is best for you, just do not BS yourself, run some tests and reach your own conclusion.

[hanshi]

For me that's cut then cut with scissors.

[thecapgunkid]

Jingles Christmas....Picky!, Picky!, Picky!

Am I the only guy who uses a loading block?

[Daryl]

I use loading blocks when hunting, not range shooting. On the trail, it's all from the pouch, of course, with lubed pre-cut patches - round is faster for me with punch and UHMW block.

When testing on the range, I still use a bag and horn, but also have the 'shooting box' with all the tools, hammer, drift, files, targets, stapler, other granulations of powder, different size balls and patches, different lubes, etc.