Fuzzy wood, when to burnish

[smallpatch]

I'm finishing another Lehigh, with a highly figure piece of maple.
I'm a scraper, not a sander, but there are some areas that just won't scrape.  Lots of tear out.
Getting ready for ferric nitrate, and tannic acid.
I know when I heat, I'm gonna get all kinds of fuzzies.  So, do I burnish between tannic acid, and ferric nitrate, or after those two, and before sealer?
Your help greatly appreciated.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

I would burnish the wood with a thick rope end between every step of the process.  I don't think you can overdo that job Dane.

[smallpatch]

Thanks Taylor.
I applied my first coat of tannic acid, and it definitely raised the whiskers.  I used a green skotchbrite pad, and it seemed to work well.
Please explain the thick rope end you talked about.

[Jerry V Lape]

Dane,
You might also try the purple scotchbrite material to apply those stains.  I was told that by one of the best builders and it works for me.  I also lightly burnish the wood before staining with a polished piece of antler to smooth carving. 

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Dane:  I have a four inch length of 1 1/4" manila rope, whipped tightly at each end to keep it tight. and I use it to rub down the wood, carving and all, before finish goes on.  It does not remove any wood...just presses and burnishes it.  I also use a stiff toothbrush in carving.  But instructions from builders like Ed Wenger, Jim Kibler, and Jim Chambers would be more valuable.  In fact, the number of great builders on this site are too numerous to mention them all, yourself included.

[smallpatch]

Thanks Taylor,
One of my critiques at Dixon's last year was that I had scraped, and not burnished the stock.
That said, I knew this,piece was going to be a challenge, so I thought I'd ask the pros!
By the way, I used a maroon skotchbrite pad between layers, and to cut back the sludge from the surface.
It looks pretty good, but I think the rope thing would be a good addition, and probably get into cuts and recesses better.
Gotta find some rope.

[QuanLoi]

I'm curious why you choose not to use sandpaper.  During the building of a gun, I both scrap and sand... Were most period flintlocks scraped rather than sanded?  Sandpaper certainly existed during the colonial period and after...  (I remember reading that the first ship from England to sail to America after the Revolution carried sandpaper on its bill of lading)

[rich pierce]

Not to butt in, but the presence or availability of an item does not infer it's universal use. Plenty of originals found in "attic" condition show evidence of scraping. Sandpaper is an expensive disposable item. Scrapers last forever. Similarly rasps wear out but planes and spokeshaves do not. If I was a frugal gunsmith I would limit my use of disposable items. But my reasoning has no impact on what they actually did.

[Joe S.]

I believe what Rich says has merit,folks had a way different mind set back then.I used more paper on my build,my scraping needs a lot of work.After looking at both finishes on practice pieces I do like the smoother finish paper gives as well.I will probably after sanding try giving my stock a light scrape as was suggested in another thread.I am trying different scrapers with radiuses close to the stock shapes.This is where I run into problems.

[smallpatch]

To me, a scraped surface just feels more alive, organic.
I believe that sandpaper was NOT common in colonial days.  It would be imported, until industry was developed here.  I can make a scraper, but not sandpaper.
Extant examples I've seen show tool marks, file marks, and scraper marks, not a glass smooth finish like we seem to like.
Just my personal preference.

[Micah2]

I think we all have the feel that someone is always watching our work, and judging our product.  The truth is its just us.  The rest is our conscience.  The real judge on the shoulder of an 18th gunsmith was the shooter.  With this in mind, perfect satin finish would not be a priority.  I like scraping, but thats because its cheaper, by a lot.