Author Topic: Acers Engraving Class (Read 16646 times)

elkhorne · « **Reply #25 on:** September 29, 2017, 04:36:18 AM »

Acer,
The Lindsay website shows a 96 and 116 v templates. Which is the one you prefer and use to teach your students? Thanks and would love to get to your class next year. Thanks.
elkhorne

Acer Saccharum · « **Reply #26 on:** September 29, 2017, 03:50:44 PM »

The 96 and 116 will work, but it's my opinion that the 90 gives the closest 'look' to your engraving that a hand sharpened graver gives on 18th an 19th Century work. The vee is deeper than the 116, and the cuts don't look so much like bright cut Western style concho engraving. There is nothing wrong with that style engraving, but it's just too 'bright' for a longrifle.

A '70' or a '80' degree cutter will work as well, but the points are slightly more fragile than a '90', since there is less metal supporting the cutting edge. These are better for shading cuts.

I hope you can see the image below, where the 90 is indicated.

elkhorne · « **Reply #27 on:** September 30, 2017, 06:18:45 AM »

Acer,
Thank you very much for the clarification. I will just reference it to Mr. Lindsay when I order my template. I have heard so many good accolades for these efficient templates that it gives me hope I can one day engrave for myself. Thanks again.
elkhorne

Acer Saccharum · « **Reply #28 on:** September 30, 2017, 05:26:18 PM »

Elk, you MUST have stones 1/2" high. You can use your own stones, but make sure they are shimmed to exactly the same height, be they fine, medium, and coarse.

galudwig · « **Reply #29 on:** October 01, 2017, 06:38:54 PM »

Hey elkhorne,

Here's a few pics of the practice plates I made during Tom's class. Sorry for the quality, but it is really difficult to photograph a flat piece of metal.

All these patterns were copied from various photo's of actual rifles from RCA volumes 1 & 2 and from the color photo book of Kindig's collection. What struck me the most after studying the patterns on many of the guns is that the lines did not always connect and/or intersect. To me, the engravings were more interesting when they didn't. It's the shape of the line and shading that tricks the mind into seeing a complete picture.

Other than a few pitiful attempts with improperly sharpened tools, I've never engraved before taking this class. Now that I can sharpen a graver, I can engrave. There are lots of things wrong on my practice plates. I have plenty of room for improvement and that will come with practice. I now have a solid base on which to build and if this is the kind of thing you are looking for, I highly recommend taking Tom's class. You won't be disappointed.

http://www.southernohioartisanworkshops.com

jpg to img

rich pierce · « **Reply #30 on:** October 03, 2017, 03:41:23 AM »

Gary, you were the pace-setter in the class, for sure. Right now I'm working on my concentration on long lines (straight and curved) and controlling depth/width of lines. Trying to practice at least every other day.

galudwig · « **Reply #31 on:** October 03, 2017, 05:13:54 AM »

Thanks Rich! Tom's class was really fun! My sharpening fixture, templates, and diamond stones arrived from Lindsay today. Looking forward to getting back to practicing.

elkhorne · « **Reply #32 on:** October 03, 2017, 07:21:39 AM »

Galudwig,
Thos practice plates look great! I am really impressed. As Acer has said and I have heard it from others, engraving is ONLY possible with sharp gravers. I have struggled with engraving for several years and even took a class at GRS but we did not spend much time on sharpening and spent more time trying to get the "microscope" adjusted. It drove me crazy and I had to go to my Optivisor to do anything. Looks like you guys were miles ahead and sounds like the Lindsay sharpening system vaulted you all right into actual engraving. Just hope I can take Acer'class next year. That is my goal! Thanks again for showing us your work and I wish you good luck in your future engraving.
elkhorne

Jeff64 · « **Reply #33 on:** October 04, 2017, 12:08:14 AM »

Where can one buy brass and iron practice pieces like we used in the class? I went to Lowe's and found "welded" steel.

T*O*F · « **Reply #34 on:** October 04, 2017, 03:45:52 AM »

Quote from: Jeff64 on October 04, 2017, 12:08:14 AM

Where can one buy brass and iron practice pieces like we used in the class? I went to Lowe's and found "welded" steel.

Go to Tira Mitchell's website. She has the best prices for practice plates of all materials.

https://www.engraver.com/practice-plates/

Jeff64 · « **Reply #35 on:** October 04, 2017, 04:11:05 AM »

That works! Thank you.

rich pierce · « **Reply #36 on:** October 04, 2017, 05:08:51 AM »

I was looking for sheet brass and Rio Grande Supply seems a good source. 14 ga is 0.063 thick, I think.

https://www.riogrande.com/product/Jewelers-Brass-6-x-12-Sheet-14-Ga-Dead-Soft/130114

Gaeckle · « **Reply #37 on:** October 04, 2017, 07:47:24 AM »

Try Ebay

BOB HILL · « **Reply #38 on:** October 04, 2017, 02:20:40 PM »

Old brass kick plates sometimes found at scrap metal yards work great. Use them for patchbox material all the time. Bob

PPatch · « **Reply #39 on:** October 05, 2017, 05:51:49 PM »

I've been practicing my engraving each morning when I first get in the shop. Improving but have a ways to to, and I know it.

dave

Acer Saccharum · « **Reply #40 on:** October 05, 2017, 06:48:49 PM »

Dave! That is beautiful! I'm so happy you're working at it. Tom

rich pierce · « **Reply #41 on:** October 06, 2017, 05:24:54 AM »

Tonight's practice was about simulating Fainot's sideplate engraving. Thankfully he wasn't Frederick Sell when it comes to engraving.

Fainot

Try #1 and #2

The last one was better. Still working on depth/width control. And taking time to work on design before picking up the hammer. With limited time I'm tempted to just get tapping.

Acer Saccharum · « **Reply #42 on:** October 06, 2017, 11:21:38 PM »

Rich, that's pretty darned close. Your curves are better than Fainot's. Don't make it too good.

Suggestion, on your round nosed tool, make your heel just a tad wider. I think that will make your depth much easier to cotrol, thus smoother cuts.

rich pierce · « **Reply #43 on:** October 07, 2017, 12:32:42 AM »

Thanks, I can see a washboard in the grooves of the round nosed graver. Will see if a longer heel helps.

Acer Saccharum · « **Reply #44 on:** October 07, 2017, 12:46:57 AM »

A high polish on the heel will help, too. Just for giggles, try cutting several passes, see if you can get the depth you want with a smooth finish pass.

moleeyes36 · « **Reply #45 on:** October 07, 2017, 05:51:57 PM »

Acer,

Some time ago you posted a drawing showing how to make aluminum graver handles for use in hammer engraving. I haven't had any luck finding it with the search function. Was the handle shown in the drawing made from 3/8" aluminum rod stock? Thanks.

Mole Eyes

T*O*F · « **Reply #46 on:** October 07, 2017, 06:33:12 PM »

I've posted this one several times in the past. It's 3/8 aluminum rod. I would use a set screw so it doesn't get in your way, but a distributor points screw is what I had handy at the time.

moleeyes36 · « **Reply #47 on:** October 07, 2017, 06:46:45 PM »

That's perfect, T.O.F. Thanks.

Mole Eyes

PPatch · « **Reply #48 on:** October 07, 2017, 07:04:23 PM »

Quote from: T*O*F on October 07, 2017, 06:33:12 PM

I've posted this one several times in the past. It's 3/8 aluminum rod. I would use a set screw so it doesn't get in your way, but a distributor points screw is what I had handy at the time.

I too use that size aluminum rod as a handle for graver steels. I don't bother with the set screw, but make the hole in the business end slightly undersized. It is a press fit but not too difficult to get the point to go in the hole, if you have trouble just lightly grind the edges of the graver. I do have to clamp the point in a small vice to remove it for sharpening.

dave

Acer Saccharum · « **Reply #49 on:** October 09, 2017, 04:32:23 PM »

Here is a drawing of a graver handle that I make. A square graver needs to have the corners slightly beveled to fit in the 1/8" hole, but it's real easy to do on a diamond stone.

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Author Topic: Acers Engraving Class (Read 16646 times)

galudwig

galudwig