Inlay gaps and wetting?

[Marcruger]

I have pondered this for a while, and just thought to ask the question. 

When one has inlayed a piece (say a hunter's star), and the inletting isn't perfect, can the wood be wet in that area to swell up and fill a small gap?  I mean, after the inlay has been attached to the wood.

I am not talking big, but in close up photos we can often see a little sliver of a gap here and there.  Just wondering if wood swelling from water would make any difference? 

Best wishes, and God Bless,   Marc

[jerrywh]

 As soon as the wood dries the gap will return.

[davec2]

In a nutshell.....yes.  Works well especially if the wood is not gone but just compressed.  I think this is why stabbing in works as well as it does.  The stabbing in of the outline compresses the wood at the edge of the inlay and when wet, it swells back into place.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

I would say 'yes' as well, but the effect is very limited.  I use chisels to inlay everything, and short paring knives to get right to the line, so there is very little compressed wood around my inlays.  Yet, when I whisker the wood, I see some swelling taking place, as disturbed wood wants to return to it's former shape.  But again, I would not rely on wetting/swelling wood to close gaps.  In fact, the Tung Oil I use for finish likely has a more profound effect on thin gaps, filling as the coats are applied.

[jerrywh]

 My answer is different because I do not stab in when inlaying. Stabbing in compresses the wood to one side as Dave said.
 I remove all the inside wood first and then trim to the sides.

[Black Hand]

Yes, on both Walnut and Maple. I use boiling water/steam to whisker - won't swell much, but enough to close minor gaps.

[Mike Brooks]

In a nutshell.....yes.  Works well especially if the wood is not gone but just compressed.  I think this is why stabbing in works as well as it does.  The stabbing in of the outline compresses the wood at the edge of the inlay and when wet, it swells back into place.

What he said.

[Lucky R A]

    Wetting and steam can move wood as evidenced by steaming out minor dents.  Usually the multiple coats of finish and a couple of rub backs with a maroon scuff pad do wonders to "eliminate" any minor gaps.  If you polish your stock with a dark colored BriWax it will also make minor gaps vanish.  A couple of guys working in my shop have dubbed BriWax as "screw up be gone."

Ron

[Eric Krewson]

A while back someone on here said when they cut the outline for an inlet they used their chisel bevel out to compress the wood a bit. Later they would wet the wood to tighten the inlet.

[Marcruger]

I knew the experts here would have the answers.  :-)  Many thanks,   Marc