Author Topic: bending sear bar  (Read 3258 times)

Offline T.C.Albert

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bending sear bar
« on: April 30, 2009, 10:54:52 PM »
Can you cold bend the sear bar on an L+R lock?
If not, do you need to retemper it after heating and bending it?
I have some messed up trigger geometry on my "Lazarus" project and need to adjust the bar to make it all work.
thanks in advance.

TCA
"...where would you look up another word for thesaurus..."
Contact at : huntingpouch@gmail.com

keweenaw

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Re: bending sear bar
« Reply #1 on: April 30, 2009, 11:09:14 PM »
Tim,

The sear is through hardened so you'll need to heat it to bend it without risk of breaking it.  The only part that needs to be hard is the nose so if you clamp that part in your vise you should be able to heat the back part red hot with your Mapp torch and  bend it without taking the hardness out of the nose.

Tom

Offline T.C.Albert

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Re: bending sear bar
« Reply #2 on: April 30, 2009, 11:12:17 PM »
Many thanks...saved me a busted sear learning the hard way..
TCA
"...where would you look up another word for thesaurus..."
Contact at : huntingpouch@gmail.com

doug

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Re: bending sear bar
« Reply #3 on: May 01, 2009, 01:49:02 AM »
so if you clamp that part in your vise you should be able to heat the back part red hot with your Mapp torch and  bend it without taking the hardness out of the nose.

    If you have some pieces of brass, use them as jaw guards --- the brass will form a better heat sink for the sear nose.

cheers Doug

Offline Dennis Glazener

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Re: bending sear bar
« Reply #4 on: May 01, 2009, 02:04:18 AM »
Quote
I have some messed up trigger geometry on my "Lazarus" project and need to adjust the bar to make it all work.
thanks in advance.
Tim,
If all the "Lazarus" project has left  is to bend the searbar,  you certainly have been "laying hands" on him :o

Good luck!
Dennis
« Last Edit: May 01, 2009, 02:05:15 AM by Dennis Glazener »
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Offline T.C.Albert

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Re: bending sear bar
« Reply #5 on: May 01, 2009, 03:58:11 AM »
Hi Dennis...
theres a bit more to go, but I keep wanting to get the lock to snap...Im afraid if I need to set the trigger plate in deeper, then I will need to re-pin the guard...and reshape the wrist accordingly...so I dont want to get too far ahead of myself. The fore stock is shaped all the way out to the muzzle and it went really well.
That "unique" ram rod channel job covered up way better than I ever hoped. I did have to "V" shape it all, and its a bit clunkier than I would like, but considering what there was to work with I'm well satisfied.

Whats better, as I scrape away, the stripe in the maple is really showing up. Its a really nice piece of wood. Im adding some more carving to match what was started...and have fitted the patch box better and have it working good enough for me....

Yes, its safe to say, Lazarus will rise again! I am thinking of having the barrel rebored as big as I can and making a smooth rifle out of him, but I dont relish the thought of re-seating a new plug, letalone getting it to fit the tang channel thats already there...especially now that Ive added carving around it...so he may be a one inch plus across the flats .38 or .40 caliber what ever it is beheamoth pea shooter.

I would love to have him all done for the Lexington show, but as fast as thats coming up, its sadly unlikely.
TCA 
"...where would you look up another word for thesaurus..."
Contact at : huntingpouch@gmail.com