Author Topic: 2018 era fantasy build - .50 Cal from a Chambers Haines kit... (Read 24177 times)

Kingsburyarms · « **on:** October 08, 2017, 06:08:59 PM »

Hi All,

After spending a few months practicing my engraving (Need much more) I decided to start my next project - A .50 cal Isaac Haines Wooden patch box rifle, from a Chambers kit. Barbie Had a swamped .50 in an "A" weight, and asked if I wanted to use that - O.K. - this will make a nice light range gun, especially to train with, have my kids shoot it, and first timers. I told her that would be great - but now I need to do a little extra work to fit the barrel into the pre-carve.

Now what I would like to do on this build is to go along and explain the steps I am using to build it. For many on this site, it will be like Kindergarten again, to some, it may be a different way of building, to newer site members that have not made a kit from a pre-carve, they may want to jump in and try it, to others, well... you know. If you see a better way, let's jump in, I'm still a rookie, and this is for my knowledge as well.

Starting with the understanding that on a pre-carve there are three dimensions you need to worry about first - Not just two. Let me explain. When in-letting a barrel on a blank, You can move the barrel forward or back as the wood fits the barrel. When inletted, you can then take the lock plate and align it with the touch hole of the barrel, adjust the angle of the lock plate and inlet the plate to match up to the barrel exactly.

On a pre-carve, the lock cutout (or rough out) is already there, as well as the barrel inlet (in rough form as well) so you have to think of the lock plate and the barrel at the same time. all focusing on the match up of that touch hole.

So the first step I did was to remove the breech plug and (I bought the Rice tool - wow, easier than ever) and measured to where my touch hole would be, then marked that with a punch. I used to just mark it with a sharpie, but that always got washed away, so a little punch mark is the place. (The Barrel is a Rice A 1.66R BP R/50)

We will leave out the breach plug for the first inlet, then we will take it to the next step.

Putting the stock in the vise, we can see where the forming tool (or the router bit from the pre-carve) left us a lot of extra wood to use. That's good, we want to take away, not have to add.

Kingsburyarms · « **Reply #1 on:** October 08, 2017, 06:11:47 PM »

Now, we want the lock plate in to measure where the touch hole wants to be. We will have to adjust this a little as we have a little extra wood to inlet the plate:

You can see, if we just lay the barrel in to the Chanel, We have to move the barrel back and down to match that lock plate touch hole "Sweet Spot"

Kingsburyarms · « **Reply #2 on:** October 08, 2017, 06:18:12 PM »

There is a rough out area for the tang and breach plug already, so we will use that as a guide, but we want a nice flat "wall" of wood for the rear part of the barrel to go against tightly, while lowering and moving back the barrel to match up with that magic touch hole. Take it slow, remove, measure, remove, measure.

Without the plug or tang in the way, keep at trimming the stock and lowering it into place so you end up with the height and the depth so that touch hole is on top and centered on the lock pan.

Kingsburyarms · « **Reply #3 on:** October 08, 2017, 06:23:31 PM »

Now that we have the barrel in place, I will reinstall the plug and tang, and bend the tang slightly to match the curve of the stock.

This will help us measure the inlet notch for the breach plug and tang. That should be a nice tight fit and the wood should be right against the plug when installed. Now here is a view of the plug and tang notch, but we know we will have to take some wood off the top to match the curve of the tang.

Kingsburyarms · « **Reply #4 on:** October 08, 2017, 06:27:14 PM »

Having no idea at all if this was ever used, but I made a template of the shape of the tang to aid my in-letting without having to use marking paint, soot or coloring. I made a template using thin plastic (You can use wood, cardboard, anything) of the barrel and tang, made the opposite template, and used that to shape the tang opening.

That will help my measurements of where to take out wood and keeping the tang and plug tight against the wood.

Kingsburyarms · « **Reply #5 on:** October 08, 2017, 06:31:10 PM »

The results: An inletted barrel with a tang that is tight and has wood contact throughout the entire barrel.

Notice the 4 points I was watching:

1) The barrel is tight against the stock with no gaps or spaces
2) The touch hole marker lines up with the top center of the pan
3) The tang sinks below the stock, and it's easy enough to remove the extra wood
4) The tang is in, tight and has full wood contact.

Kingsburyarms · « **Reply #6 on:** October 08, 2017, 06:43:59 PM »

Now on to the 3rd dimension, The trigger plate (in this case I will be using a set trigger) so I have to use the sear bar of the lock to tell me where I can place the trigger plate. That is already cut into the pre-carve, so we will have to see how much modification we will have to do to the stock (because we are changing the trigger type) More to follow on that as I take and add pictures.

All feedback, missing details, items of interest more than welcome

Jon

P.W.Berkuta · « **Reply #7 on:** October 08, 2017, 06:54:13 PM »

I like your use of the paper template for the contour of the tang to get a good inlet

. I've had trouble in this area in the past

.

Mike Brooks · « **Reply #8 on:** October 08, 2017, 07:42:51 PM »

The under side of that tang needs the radius removed. I have NEVER seen an antique gun with a radius like that. Besides being square it makes inletting much easier. That radius will create problems later as that barrel settles in.
You need to move on to building from a blank....

Kingsburyarms · « **Reply #9 on:** October 08, 2017, 07:54:36 PM »

Thanks Mike - on this one, seeing I have already removed the wood under the tang, will have to keep it's radius, so I can keep a strong fit - or I can square it off and (gulp) Acra-glass it... Anyone have blanks for sale?

I'm ready if you are...

smart dog · « **Reply #10 on:** October 08, 2017, 08:51:07 PM »

Hi KBA,
I used to obsess about my inlets being super tight so they look like the metal grew out of the wood. After some experience I learned that wetting wood for whiskering, stain, and finish all swell the wood and I used to always have to go back and scrape the inlet edges so the parts would fit again. After applying finish, cleaning edges of inlets is a risky task. I no longer worry that my inlets are so tight, especially the barrel tang because the finishing of the wood will take care of any little gaps. The gun looks great and I await your updates.

dave

Kingsburyarms · « **Reply #11 on:** October 08, 2017, 09:20:15 PM »

Thanks Dave - I appreciate the feedback - I agree that inletting can become a challenge as (like you said) as water, finish, stain and normal stock work can open up (or close) any Metal to wood connection, as I get this basic architecture together, I always like to leave more wood than less... as I'm sure I will open the gaps up as I pin the barrel and add some details to the carving..

I tapered the Tang on the bottom so I can reduce (and hopefully) avoid any chips - I appreciate your feedback and thank you for following - Can't wait to set up some time to meet (maybe) at David's, unless a trip to MA is in your future, and just catch up -

Jon

Adrie luke · « **Reply #12 on:** October 08, 2017, 09:38:34 PM »

I think I had better started the building of my rifle at the same time as you.
I will follow you and I hope you will sent more pictures.
Lots of success!

Kingsburyarms · « **Reply #13 on:** October 08, 2017, 10:19:27 PM »

Ik ben vereerd door uw verklaring conversie,

Saw your work (Crossbow) at David Price's Shop, I have so much to learn from you!!!

Jon

D. Taylor Sapergia · « **Reply #14 on:** October 08, 2017, 10:48:34 PM »

Jon: you are doing a great job...everything looks just fine. When I started out, I too inlet as tightly as I could, because I thought that was the way of it. But when the gun was finished, I always ended up scraping out finish and wood so that things came apart more easily, and chipping was less likely. Even when I inlet a lock without any gaps, once I take out the retaining screws, and tip the rifle over, the lock falls out on the table. Having to pound on the heads of the lock screws, is not the way ... as far a I am concerned.
So, strive for perfect inletting, but enjoy the process. Don't HAVE TO drive the parts down into their inlets.

taco650 · « **Reply #15 on:** October 09, 2017, 02:56:49 AM »

Thanks for starting this thread. Im one of those new members you mentioned early on. For me, seeing the process explained with pictures & words helps a lot. Also gives me motivation to do the same.

smart dog · « **Reply #16 on:** October 09, 2017, 03:10:26 AM »

Hi Jon,
You are always welcome to come visit. I am just about an hour and 15 minutes from Dave Price. Moreover, my place is very scenic and worth seeing. I believe I have the most scenic shooting range in New England.

dave

Kingsburyarms · « **Reply #17 on:** October 09, 2017, 04:01:18 AM »

Dave - sounds like I need to pack up a few rifles and head north...

Kingsburyarms · « **Reply #18 on:** October 09, 2017, 04:08:05 AM »

Quote from: taco650 on October 09, 2017, 02:56:49 AM

Thanks for starting this thread. Im one of those new members you mentioned early on. For me, seeing the process explained with pictures & words helps a lot. Also gives me motivation to do the same.

Thank you Taco - I love to see the pictures and posts of completed rifles and pistols, I really like the posts of these incredible builders that show the little details that help show very specific steps and process, how they built it, how they take items we all have around the shop and make a part of a rifle and artwork. I have read so many books and read so many threads, that I want to post what I do to maybe show, ask questions and learn. Happy to have you jump in anytime.

Jon

Daryl · « **Reply #19 on:** October 09, 2017, 04:10:23 AM »

Good work, Jon. Taylor's work is getting downright sloppy these days, as you can see.

upload foto share link

Kingsburyarms · « **Reply #20 on:** October 09, 2017, 04:13:05 AM »

Ha! - Now that is Stellar...

scottmc · « **Reply #21 on:** October 09, 2017, 03:59:39 PM »

This question is for Mike Brooks who commented about removing the radius.....Why is it important or what benefit is it by filing the radius at a 90 degree angle? I'm an apprentice compared to most of you having built only about six rifles so far and I have always left the radius in (my teacher never told me otherwise). I value and find humor in your comments, sarcasm and criticism so would like to know why. Is it a traditional thing or functional.

Mike Brooks · « **Reply #22 on:** October 09, 2017, 04:04:40 PM »

Traditional and functional both. The old plugs weren't made on a milling machine so they didn't have that radius. Also much easier to get the tang bent where you need it with out the radius.

scottmc · « **Reply #23 on:** October 09, 2017, 04:25:29 PM »

Traditional is good enough for me. I just went down stairs and looked at an original southern that I picked up recently off this site and it is definitely squared. Funny how certain attributes just don't pop out unless someone directs attention to it. Thanks!

Dennis Glazener · « **Reply #24 on:** October 09, 2017, 09:07:33 PM »

I removed the video, we can not violate existing copyright laws. Please be careful of posting anything that is still under copyright protection.

For more information on this go to the site https://fairuse.stanford.edu/overview/faqs/copyright-basics/
Thanks
Dennis

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Author Topic: 2018 era fantasy build - .50 Cal from a Chambers Haines kit... (Read 24177 times)