Browning the lock and parts

[Justin]

Definitely a noob question here...

In the videos and instructions I've read online, everyone focuses on browning of the barrel but they never mention the other steel parts on the gun like the lock, trigger plate, etc.

Should one also brown these parts? If so, do you also brown the frizzen and if so, on both sides or do you leave the striking surface un-browned? How about the cock?

It seems to me that browning some of those parts could cause things like the bolt that is used to clamp the flint into the cock would be messed up.

Can anyone clarify? I'm a ways out from doing this on my kit but I have been wondering this while doing my research. Thanks!

[Eric Kettenburg]

If you're doing an earlier rifle (you mentioned a Haines style in the other post) I'd just polish all the steel up and leave it white.  It's much more historically appropriate to this period and it will tarnish up soon enough anyway.

[Chowmi]

Eric posted while I was responding as well, I would do what he says. 

Here is my original reply:

Before deciding to brown the lock, have a look through old posts on the subject, and pictures of originals.  It also depends on what style of rifle you are building. 

I won't claim to be anywhere near an expert, but I have been taught that the locks were case-hardened.  Remember, they were made from iron, and needed some sort of hardening - hence the case hardening. 

I think that the appearance of browning on antique locks is likely just rust over time instead of deliberate browning.  Again, depends on what style of gun, and what time period. 

You can certainly brown the lock if you want to.  No, you don't brown the face of the frizzen.  You could heat-blue, case harden, or charcoal blue (not intending to start another discussion of the differences) the cock jaw screw.  Lots of folks do some variation of that.   

Cheers,
Norm

 

[jerrywh]

 It is my opinion that most American long rifles never had browned locks. I think they were installed as is with the finish they had on them when imported from England or wherever.  Most of them if not all appear to be in the white so to speak.

[WKevinD]

Justin I have two pictures attached:
first one is a lock that has been in service 25+ years finished in the white
second in the white just delivered.
Time and use gives them a different look, browning something different again
Kevin

[Justin]

Ah, great. I think I would rather not brown the lock anyway so I think I will follow your advice and leave it be.

Thanks! And yes, this is for the same Isaac Haines kit I am building (from Jim Chambers).

[EC121]

I sometimes just cold blue the parts and let the bluing wear/rub off.  It ends up looking like burnt's lock.

[davebozell]

You can also use a "French gray" finish on your metal.  Jim Kibler sells a brass darkening solution that makes a pretty good "French gray".  It takes the shine off of the iron, and gives you a head start on the "25 year old" look.

[SingleMalt]

Case hardening with Kasenite or whatever is sold today as a replacement will leave a greyish mottled look that I find attractive.  It's just a surface case hardening.  Modern locks are steel, not iron.

[deepcreekdale]

Let me second Dave Bozell's comment on Kibler's brass tarnishing solution. It is super easy to use and is surprisingly durable. I was also under the impression that most original guns were finished in the white, including the barrels. What we see today is they result of 250 years of patina, not a finish in many cases. Browning and blueing were available  in colonial times but did add to the cost of the gun quite a bit. Most of my customers hunt with their guns however and seem to prefer them browned, at least the barrel.

[Justin]

Let me second Dave Bozell's comment on Kibler's brass tarnishing solution. It is super easy to use and is surprisingly durable. I was also under the impression that most original guns were finished in the white, including the barrels. What we see today is they result of 250 years of patina, not a finish in many cases. Browning and blueing were available  in colonial times but did add to the cost of the gun quite a bit. Most of my customers hunt with their guns however and seem to prefer them browned, at least the barrel.

I plan to hunt with this rifle -- maybe the nicks and scrapes I put in it then will make me not feel so bad about the mistakes I'm already making now while building it...

[Joe S]

My hunting guns are left in the white, both locks and barrels.  They do not alarm game, as far as I can tell. 

If you look around in the forest, you will see lots of off white sticks and so forth, that look just like a gun barrel, so the gun barrel itself is nothing unusual looking.  I think we've soaked up way too much camo advertising.

[Justin]

My hunting guns are left in the white, both locks and barrels.  They do not alarm game, as far as I can tell. 

If you look around in the forest, you will see lots of off white sticks and so forth, that look just like a gun barrel, so the gun barrel itself is nothing unusual looking.  I think we've soaked up way too much camo advertising.

Haha true -- I'm in Wisconsin so we have plenty of white aspen and birch. Leaving the barrel white could actually be considered camouflage! I do plan to brown the barrel but I want to do a pretty smooth / light coat. I don't want it to look super rusty.