Basic Frizzen Fitting

[Chris Evrard]

Hey All,

There was a thread the other day where a member had asked about frizzen fitting. I was doing a batch of 30 Small Siler locks so I made a quick video to show how I do this task. It isn't rocket science but maybe it'll help someone out there.

Best,

Chris E.

[Justin Urbantas]

Very informative. Where do you buy the Prussian Blue?

[Justin Urbantas]

I would love to see more videos of your lock building process. I have been wanting to build a lock for the last little while. 

[smylee grouch]

Thanks Chris, for taking the time to do this.

[n stephenson]

Chris, Nice video!!  Look forward to more???  Keep them coming , when you can.  Nate

[wattlebuster]

Very interesting. Thanks for posting

[Chris Evrard]

Very informative. Where do you buy the Prussian Blue?

I got the latest tube on amazon! I couldn't even find it at MSC.

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80038-Prussian-Fitting-Compound/dp/B000HBM86Q/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1509848172&sr=sr-1&keywords=prussian+blue

I think I got my original tube from an auto parts store.

Best

CE

[Bob Roller]

An easier way to fit the frizzen IMHO is to clamp a sharp long angle
lathe file in a bench vise,preferably a RECTANGULAR file instead of
a tapered one and the push the frizzen across the file and them the pan
and then check the gap.The little mill file to me is harder to control and
a really sharp new one is hard to find.I have found that over a long
period of use there will be a slight gap occur from the beating and'slamming
inflicted on the frizzen.

Bob Roller

[moleeyes36]

Very informative. Where do you buy the Prussian Blue?

I recently bought a tube of Prussian Blue at my local NAPA auto parts store.

Mole Eyes

[Justin]

Thanks for sharing.

Did you buy your brass vise jaws or make them yourself?

[TommyG]

Chris, Thanks for sharing this info.  I think it was myself who requested on an earlier thread for information on how other members fit the frizzen to pan.  I like your method as you can remove material and keep checking fit without constantly having to remove the frizzen from the lockplate.  I would imagine a very sharp file is a must.  I'll have to give this one a try.  In the past I have used emery on a piece of glass but would have to remove the frizzen to do this.  TommyG

[Chris Evrard]

Bob, that is precisely how I prep my frizzen. Prior to installing on the plate/pan.

LC Rice taught me that method. He calls it the "Mexican Mill"

An easier way to fit the frizzen IMHO is to clamp a sharp long angle
lathe file in a bench vise,preferably a RECTANGULAR file instead of
a tapered one and the push the frizzen across the file and them the pan
and then check the gap.The little mill file to me is harder to control and
a really sharp new one is hard to find.I have found that over a long
period of use there will be a slight gap occur from the beating and'slamming
inflicted on the frizzen.

Bob Roller

[Chris Evrard]

Thanks for sharing.

Did you buy your brass vise jaws or make them yourself?

OOOps. I said brass in the video. They are actually Copper. Yes I made them myself. Raw stock purchased here:  http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=4319&step=4&showunits=inches&id=253&top_cat=87

[Chris Evrard]

In my video I should have mentioned That the frizzen, prior to being installed on the lockplate, has been flattened on the contact surface. I do this exactly how Bob Roller mentioned above. As LC Rice said, "If it ain't got a good fit (frizz to pan) to start out with, you'll chase it forever after drilling the frizzen pivot."

After drilling the frizzen pivot screw hole, occasionally I get lucky and have a perfectly gap free fit. But usually I have a small amount of tuning to do to get it back to a gap free state. The video above only outlines that small amount of tuning.

TommyG, the sharp file is a definite plus. But I use them WAAAY too long. Another LC-ism I loved was, "My father thought a file was a lifetime investment..." I have since learned that spending the extra money to keep sharp files in my block is WORTH IT! I probably go through about 8-10 of those 6" mill files a year, 6-8  8" mill files and 3-4  12" files that I use mainly for flattening the frizzen bottoms. But then I build about 500 locks a year too.

Best,

CE

[Bob Roller]

Chris,
I've looked at your assembly work at Jim's displays at Lexington and Friendship
and it looks fine to me.I think the long angle lathe file is best for flattening the
bottom of the frizzen and they come with 2 safe edges and leaves a better finish.
Bob Roller

[Chris Evrard]

Chris,
I've looked at your assembly work at Jim's displays at Lexington and Friendship
and it looks fine to me.I think the long angle lathe file is best for flattening the
bottom of the frizzen and they come with 2 safe edges and leaves a better finish.
Bob Roller

Thanks Bob. That means something coming from you!

I have got to try some of those lathe files. I'm also curious to see how much better they are for actual lathe work too. There are a few builders on youtube that rave about them.

Best,

CE

[Jim Chambers]

Chris, great video on fitting the frizzen.  My only suggestion is to do this with the mainspring in place.  Sometimes, if you have not fit the pan to the plate perfectly the pressure of the mainspring pushing up against the bottom of the pan can cause the front of the pan to move up ever so slightly and cause a gap at the back of the pan.
One other thing to consider....light can go where water cannot.  Water needs a large enough gap for capillary action to move the water into the pan.  Having the pan/pan cover completely light tight is certainly desirable but not always necessary to keep water out.  Sometimes, as the old saying goes, close is good enough.

[Chris Evrard]

Chris, great video on fitting the frizzen.  My only suggestion is to do this with the mainspring in place.  Sometimes, if you have not fit the pan to the plate perfectly the pressure of the mainspring pushing up against the bottom of the pan can cause the front of the pan to move up ever so slightly and cause a gap at the back of the pan.
One other thing to consider....light can go where water cannot.  Water needs a large enough gap for capillary action to move the water into the pan.  Having the pan/pan cover completely light tight is certainly desirable but not always necessary to keep water out.  Sometimes, as the old saying goes, close is good enough.

Another good point I should have thought to mention on the video. Although I haven't had this situation on the small Siler(s) so much I have run into it on the larger two piece plates. Thanks!

CE