Author Topic: Polishing a Siler lock  (Read 19125 times)

Offline Tim Crosby

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Re: Polishing a Siler lock
« Reply #25 on: December 17, 2017, 01:20:49 AM »
 Nice job Rich over all, clean up and posting. Will you do me a favor and show how you got your main spring back on. Did you use your spring vice?

    Thanks, Tim

PS: FWIW, years ago I started using a piece of flat refrigerator magnet to hold flies, cut a piece, put it in a mason jar top put the fly on it, haven't lost one since. TC
« Last Edit: December 17, 2017, 01:27:33 AM by Tim Crosby »

ddoyle

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Re: Polishing a Siler lock
« Reply #26 on: December 17, 2017, 03:09:22 AM »
Rich, it would be great if you would do a tutorial on fixes.  Thanks

Offline rich pierce

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Re: Polishing a Siler lock
« Reply #27 on: December 17, 2017, 03:39:00 AM »
Rich, it would be great if you would do a tutorial on fixes.  Thanks

There’s still more for me to fill in here, polishing the pan for example.

And I’d have to have a problem lock, which inevitably leads to bashing of suppliers.  So it may be a while.  If anyone has an old 1980s Lott lock to donate to the project, let’s do it!  That would be non-controversial.
Andover, Vermont

Dave Patterson

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Re: Polishing a Siler lock
« Reply #28 on: December 17, 2017, 04:49:56 AM »
Rich, it would be great if you would do a tutorial on fixes.  Thanks

... I’d have to have a problem lock, which inevitably leads to bashing of suppliers.  So it may be a while.  If anyone has an old 1980s Lott lock to donate to the project, let’s do it!  That would be non-controversial.

I have several locks in hand, to tune and polish for a project I'm working.  Give me a few weeks:  with my ham-fisted approach to work both fine and coarse, I'm sure I'll... errr... goof one up sufficiently to qualify as a "problem" lock in need of repair.  I'd be happy to donate one for the addition to the tutorial section. 

 ;)

Offline Curtis

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Re: Polishing a Siler lock
« Reply #29 on: December 17, 2017, 07:59:44 AM »
I like the toothpaste idea, Rich!

Curtis
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Sometimes, late at night when I am alone in the inner sanctum of my workshop and no one else can see, I sand things using only my fingers for backing

Offline davec2

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Re: Polishing a Siler lock
« Reply #30 on: December 17, 2017, 08:30:15 AM »
The toothpaste trick is also useful for scratches in the paint on your car as well.  However, not all toothpaste has the same level of abrasiveness.  Go here to find out how different brands and types compare:

https://www.strobeldentistry.com/abrasiveness-of-toothpastes.html

For example,    Arm & Hammer Dental Care has an abrasive rating of 35, while Crest Regular is 95, and Colgate Advanced Whitening is rated at 200.  So, if you want the tumbler to wear in more quickly, you might want to go with the Colgate.


"No man will be a sailor who has contrivance enough to get himself into a jail; for being in a ship is being in a jail, with the chance of being drowned... a man in a jail has more room, better food, and commonly better company."
Dr. Samuel Johnson, 1780

Offline SingleMalt

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Re: Polishing a Siler lock
« Reply #31 on: December 17, 2017, 08:13:46 PM »
The toothpaste trick is also useful for scratches in the paint on your car as well.  However, not all toothpaste has the same level of abrasiveness.  Go here to find out how different brands and types compare:

https://www.strobeldentistry.com/abrasiveness-of-toothpastes.html

For example,    Arm & Hammer Dental Care has an abrasive rating of 35, while Crest Regular is 95, and Colgate Advanced Whitening is rated at 200.  So, if you want the tumbler to wear in more quickly, you might want to go with the Colgate.

I've used fine valve grinding compound for the same effect.  It certainly cuts quickly.
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ddoyle

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Re: Polishing a Siler lock
« Reply #32 on: December 17, 2017, 08:42:00 PM »
Rich,

I hear ya on trying to keep things focused and not bashy.  Really tho no one should expect a 'near perfect' lock for less then 200 dollars (unless they are getting it from Jim)  as long as the budget lock is fixable then the customer probabley got exactly what they paid for. 
I have said it before and I stand by it- Locks should cost 500 bucks and a Barrel should cost the same-  Any offered at a lower price point MUST have some shortcomings. (see parenthesis above)  Acknowledging these short comings is not bashing it is helping to further the appreciation for well built locks and it helps to improve the saftey, reliability and shooting performance of muzzleloading side locks. In the long run educated customers are the best thing for someone trying to make a living at lock manufacture.

Sad concern this bashing thing but it is certainly PC in this age of coddling. Kind of like  elementary schools and colleges give children ribbons and prizes for coming in 4th , 5th , 6th, 7th, 8th, 9th, ........23rd.....65th  meanwhile the kid that worked thier fingers to the bone stands and gets the same reward as those who did the minimum................ hmmmmm sounds kind of commie to me. ;) :-X

Hope you can teach more

RE the valve rouge mentioned above. Mr Rase mentioned some years ago on ALR that the way he fit axles was to make them a real tight fit and then spin them with Rouge to fit. Best hint ever. Before I read that I was trying (and failing) to measure my way to an acceptable fit. Those little tidbits of knowledge are so valuable.
« Last Edit: December 17, 2017, 08:48:35 PM by ddoyle »

Offline HighUintas

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Re: Polishing a Siler lock
« Reply #33 on: April 28, 2022, 09:24:39 PM »
Rich, it would be great if you would do a tutorial on fixes.  Thanks

There’s still more for me to fill in here, polishing the pan for example.

And I’d have to have a problem lock, which inevitably leads to bashing of suppliers.  So it may be a while.  If anyone has an old 1980s Lott lock to donate to the project, let’s do it!  That would be non-controversial.

This is a good tutorial, Rich. Thank you.

I've been looking for an answer to a question I have so I can do no harm to my lock during polishing and haven't found it yet.

I have a chambers late ketland, so I don't have to worry about the fit between pan and plate, but I have a couple of dips in the plate between the tumbler hole and the pan bottom that I'm having trouble removing. It seems I've filed and 80grit sanded the thing forever and still haven't gotten down to that dip. Is there any risk of ruining fit of other parts by continued metal removal on the external plate surface?

Offline rich pierce

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Re: Polishing a Siler lock
« Reply #34 on: April 28, 2022, 10:47:06 PM »
Most cast plates have some dips. So long as you keep full thickness at the tumbler axle hole you can go as far as you need elsewhere.
Andover, Vermont

Offline HighUintas

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Re: Polishing a Siler lock
« Reply #35 on: April 28, 2022, 11:06:25 PM »
Yikes. I have been indiscriminately filing and sanding the entire surface. I now understand the circle drawn around the tumbler hole on one of your pictures and will stay away from that area.

What are the effects of thinning that portion too much?

Offline rich pierce

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Re: Polishing a Siler lock
« Reply #36 on: April 28, 2022, 11:47:48 PM »
A few thousandths won’t matter but you don’t want it filed so far down that the bearing surface supporting the tumbler axle is thin and there’s a big gap behind the cock when seated on the square shaft.
Andover, Vermont

Offline smart dog

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Re: Polishing a Siler lock
« Reply #37 on: April 29, 2022, 12:51:11 AM »
Hi HU,
As Rich pointed out, you can take the outside of the lock plate down quite a bit as long as you don't expose too much tumbler post or create slop in the fit of the frizzen.  However, the outside of the plate is not the biggest concern as long as you get rid of the cast surface.  The inside of the plate is where you want the surface flat and smooth.

dave
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Offline DGB

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Re: Polishing a Siler lock
« Reply #38 on: April 29, 2022, 04:00:48 AM »
Another "thumbs Up". Good read.
Miss you at the club shoots...
Regards,
DGB

Offline Spalding

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Re: Polishing a Siler lock
« Reply #39 on: April 29, 2022, 05:01:26 AM »
HU, the Chambers Late Ketland I’m using right now has the same dip between the pan and tumbler hole. I filed as much off the lock plate as I’m comfortable with, quite a bit, but I still have a 1/4”-3/8” circular area at the upper part of the lock plate that’s low.
I’m calling it good and will just sand and polish now. The cock covers some of the area so shouldn’t be too noticeable.

Bob

Offline HighUintas

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Re: Polishing a Siler lock
« Reply #40 on: April 29, 2022, 05:24:14 PM »
Great. Thank you all for the information. I think I'll put the file away and start working up in finish

Offline ipman

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Re: Polishing a Siler lock
« Reply #41 on: May 06, 2022, 02:03:45 PM »
Thanks for taking your time to share this, well done

Offline HighUintas

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Re: Polishing a Siler lock
« Reply #42 on: May 18, 2022, 05:59:27 AM »
I have made it to the frizzen spring, finally. It seems that it takes a fair bit of metal removal to get the casting lines off and cast surface removed. Will that really not affect the frizzen opening force and balance to the hammer?

Offline rich pierce

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Re: Polishing a Siler lock
« Reply #43 on: May 18, 2022, 01:47:03 PM »
I have made it to the frizzen spring, finally. It seems that it takes a fair bit of metal removal to get the casting lines off and cast surface removed. Will that really not affect the frizzen opening force and balance to the hammer?

I’ve not had a problem but admit some of those frizzen springs are feather-thin!
Andover, Vermont

Offline Dave R

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Re: Polishing a Siler lock
« Reply #44 on: May 19, 2022, 07:47:45 PM »
Rich,
I’am impressed by your thorough tutorial !
Please comment on your recommendations on
Oiling / greasing a lock! 🤔
Thanks!!
Dave R

Offline rich pierce

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Re: Polishing a Siler lock
« Reply #45 on: May 19, 2022, 09:23:15 PM »
I lube the tumbler hole and both faces of the tumbler with a thin film of grease. “Grease gun” grease will do fine if you have some. But I make sure the fly is not gooped up. I add the same, just a smear, on the toe of the tumbler and lock screws which are really axles (sear screw and frizzen pivot screw). The top of the sear behind the pivot, where the sear spring rubs, gets a thin film, as does the toe of the frizzen where it rides on the sear spring. All these can be added on a toothpick as an applicator. In a pinch I’ve used mink oil, petroleum jelly, and even greasy sunscreen when nothing else was available.
Andover, Vermont