Thoughts on first build...

[high_on_a_mtn_17]

Hey everyone. New to the forum, first time posting, and this is my first build, so I'm just reaching out for everyone's thoughts and opinions. This is neither a complete build, nor a true long rifle. It is an overhaul of a factory flintlock rifle that my father bought me to hunt with as a boy. About 6 or 7 months back, I caught the bug again, and realizing I couldn't justify putting down the cash for a full kit gun at the time, I opted to rework this rifle, piece by piece as I could afford it. It has sentimental value to me anyway.
It's nothing truly meant to be even close to historically accurate, with its mixed hardware, halfstock, and very very short barrel. It's merely a true beginner's project to bring more traditional lines to a modern factory gun. I learned a great deal about working wood, forming hardware, and finishing both over the course of this project, and more than that I learned that I love the process and the result and would like to do it again.
So with that, what are your thoughts on this overhauled factory rifle....














With that, let me know your thoughts, gentlemen. I've learned from browsing this forum for month's that you guys can be pretty heavy in your critiques, so I welcome that, and am thankful for it.

Jonny

[rich pierce]

Not knowing where you started it’s hard to say much. Fit and finish look good except the lock is left as cast. That kind of sticks out. I polish all locks to 320 then age or color as desired.

I’d replace the sights. They look very tall and non traditional.

[high_on_a_mtn_17]

Thank you Mr. Pierce. I wasn't sure how to proceed on the finishing the lock. I actually have a set of sights to add to it on the bench, but wanted to get it in working order in time to hunt with it a bit this year and I haven't had the chance to fit them yet. I also have a trigger to add. Rifle started as a factory Lyman Deerstalker.

[Bigmon]

Hey it looks fine, especially for a first time. 
That's basically how I started.  and now I can ruin the very best and most expensive parts. And sometimes do.
Seriously I like the fact that you are replacing the lock, and finishing it would be an improvement.
And I'll bet you could do some tuning to improve its function.
I see ya browned the barrel.  That's good but it looks uneven.  I used to work so hard at getting a barrel completely brown all over.  Now I rub it back so far it is hard to tell it was ever browned.
I think it a good idea to experiment on something like this.  Better than on a thousand dollars worth of parts the first time or so.
Just am not sure about making big changes on a gun with such sentimental value.  But that is your call.
Keep up the work and first thing ya know a big long box full of parts will be showing up at your door.
Then you will realize that now you need a bunch of tools, videos, and other good expensive stuff.
Adios

[Eric Krewson]

I agree with the need for lock polishing. I use 220 sandpaper, needle files and lots of elbow grease to polish a lock.

Here is the same lock as you have that I put on a TC renegade, polished and cold blued then rubbed back to gray with a scotch bright pad and steel wool.



With your browned barrel I would go with a browned lock as well, this one is polished to 220 and browned.

[retired fella]

While you are working on the lock be sure to polish the inside parts and surfaces for a quick and smooth ignition. 

[Bob Roller]

Thank you Mr. Pierce. I wasn't sure how to proceed on the finishing the lock. I actually have a set of sights to add to it on the bench, but wanted to get it in working order in time to hunt with it a bit this year and I haven't had the chance to fit them yet. I also have a trigger to add. Rifle started as a factory Lyman Deerstalker.

Looks like a good,simple hunting rifle to me.Have you sighted it in on a
target at a known distance.You're off to a good start.

Bob Roller

[n stephenson]

Jonny, Welcome to the forum. As stated, go ahead and finish out your lock as desired. While your at it go ahead and do your trigger and the thimbles , and might as well get your rod tip . Basically all your steel parts , do them together , at the same time . It looks like in the pics that the rear of your trigger guard needs to be inlet deeper. You could thin down the edges of the buttplate as well to look and feel better . Did you replace the barrel rib with wood? If so , cool , if not , in the pics it looks very different from the barrel. I do think it is GOOD that you are doing this. Starting out with projects like this are great , in my opinion , for beginners , get your feet wet with some inletting, filing etc.  Keep going!!  keep us posted.  Nate

[Ky-Flinter]

Jonny,

Welcome to ALR.  Nice work on your rifle.  I like that you replaced the rubber butt plate and factory trigger guard.
 I was going to mention thinning the edges of the butt plate, but Nathan beat me to it.  It's hard to tell from the picture, are the new trigger guard and butt plate left as cast?  They look like they have a matt finish.  If so, they would look better polished, then left to turn dull or you could antique them.  All in all, a good job.  It's obvious you've been bitten by the bug, So, what are you going to build next?

-Ron

[deepcreekdale]

We all started somewhere, nobody on this forum's first rifle was a work of art. But you are on your way, not bad at all. I agree with all the suggestions above, you will learn as you go on how to polish and finish metal etc. I would be willing to bet that you are looking around for another project to start on. If so, invest in some books and be prepared to get hooked on building, shooting and learning about these guns.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Those factory rifles need sights way up off the barrel...the stock is so straight that that is the only way you can shoot the rifle....unless you rework the comb.  If it were mine, I would cut the comb right down to the top of the existing wrist.  That will make the comb line up better with the butt plate return which appears in the images to slope downhill.  That will also make the comb more or less straight in line with the bore, and that will take care of the rifle's tendency to crack your cheek, especially with sights that are lower on the barrel.  Now, once the comb has been shaved off and rounded up nicely, reduce the vertical height of the wrist so that there is a gentle transition from wrist to comb.  The wrist on these factory rifles is exceptionally deep and can be reshaped to make the rifle more eye appealing, and shooter appealing.  It's got a nice piece of dark walnut.
Welcome to this site...hope you enjoy your stay here.

[ddoyle]

What a great project.  What exactly is that lock? There is an excellent recent tutorial on lock polishing  by Rich located here:

http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=47002.0

[high_on_a_mtn_17]

Thank you all so much, this is great feedback!
I’ve been traveling all day, so I apologize for being late to reply.

Thanks for the thoughts on the lock. I can say after the project that my metal finishing is definitely my weak point, and I think that’s due to lack of patience on my part. I’m definitely going to be working on the lock, polishing, and browning it like the barrel.

I had trouble with the barrel finish. At first I tried with LMF browning solution, but I don’t think I got the humidity right and I couldn’t get a good finish so I eventually tried BC plum brown and used the oven to heat it and it turned out okay.

I admit, I have an odd furniture mix. As far as the trigger guard and buttplate, I originally had it planned an iron mounted rifle, but realizing that the brass would be easier to work with and more forgiving as far as forming and shaping, I went that route instead. I thought about eliminating the nose cap altogether shortening the fore end a tiny bit using an entry pipe instead, but the Lyman stock  inletting for the barrel and ramrod  is a little weird. The forward ramrod pipes are actually the originals.

It did have a steel rib under the barrel originally. I cut a new one from a walnut plank I had then stained and finished it to match the stock.

I actually did lower the comb a little. The original was high, so I brought it down a little which is an improvement, but I was a bit timid with altering it too much and shaping the return and the butt. I kept thinking about one wrong move turning the whole project to scrap, lol.

As for the lock, it is an L&R LH RPL for the Lyman. When I got it, I set it on the bench next to the coil spring factory lock, and realized it was a completely different ballgame. Even unpolished it shoots markedly better than what imagined.

So, gathering from the comments, do you guys recommend I go ahead and polish and brown all of the steel? Lock, nosecap, thimbles and key plates?

Thanks again for the feedback, gentlemen, it’s just what I was looking for. I had a great deal of fun with this project and I’m looking forward to th first full build. As far as what, that changes every day, lol. Today it’s a Southern Mountain Squirrel rifles, tomorrow could be a a Leman, next day could be Lehigh schimmel or an Ohio rifle, who knows. That’s a whole ‘nother post altogether.

Thanks again!

[oldtravler61]

Mtn17 welcome to the AlR. I see you have been bitten by the build bug. There's no cure known.  Have no comments on what you have done that hasn't been covered. Keep up the work an don't be afraid to ask questions. Most of us started where you are now....Oldtravler

[Mauser06]

You've gotten plenty of great feedback. 


Like was said, what's next?!?!   If the build bug bit, there will be something next!  I went from something like you did, to a franken-rifle from a precarve stock...to having 3 planks and another precarve in the closet lol. 


As far as brass vs steel, steel furniture is usually a soft steel.  I used it on the franken-rifle.  It was user friendly. I didn't have much bending or anything but did a little. No issues.


If you think that lock is nice (which I did too..and it's definitely an improvement) wait till you step up to the big boys.



Oh....one thing I'd recommend...get a Chamber's white lightning touch hole line..order the drill bit and tap. It's the best money you'll spend. Since the hole is already there, you can probably do it with a hand drill with no troubles..you're just making it slightly bigger. Tapping it and installing the liner.  I put one in my TC and my Green Mountain drop in replacement and it made a giant difference.  Ignition is great in those barrels now. I was surprised.



When. It comes to the next build, really think it out and figure out what you want and what you are comfortable doing. I learned a lot from my franken-rifle build.  But I regret it now that I know more and know of different options. It's an accurate bugger and a deer killer. Just wish I had spent that money differently.