I’m trying.....first build.

[Terry Reynolds]

BJH, That makes sense.....been babying those edges for 2 weeks after taking the buttplate off. Plate reinstalled. Thanks

[Terry Reynolds]

54ball, not the best pics but it’s to cold outside to get good pics. The one thing I've noticed on the stock is there isn't much of a cheek rest.

[Mike Brooks]

Check rest is fine, in fact it's just about like most of the old ones, they didn't stick way out there as a rule.

[flinchrocket]

So, is this gun getting a sliding wood patchbox ?

[mikeyfirelock]

You’re doing fine. Keep up the good work.  I wish my first rifle was so well thought out.

[54ball]

 I'm impressed.
 That rifle has it's own architecture thing going....I have nothing to add other than you have talent. 

[Nordnecker]

I think you are doing some pretty good work. One thing I would examine is your lock panel profile. The rear of it looks a little bit concave in the picture. You might be able to improve it. Maybe it's just the angle of the photo, Or the rifle you're copying has a profile like that. This is only meant as constructive critique.

[Mike Brooks]

I think you are doing some pretty good work. One thing I would examine is your lock panel profile. The rear of it looks a little bit concave in the picture. You might be able to improve it. Maybe it's just the angle of the photo, Or the rifle you're copying has a profile like that. This is only meant as constructive critique.

I saw the same thing, but the rest of it was so good I didn't want to be picky.

This fella seems to be a sculptor, not a carver!

[Terry Reynolds]

Thanks Mike, I see other cheek rest that appear more robust and often wondered about mine looking a little "weak".

Flinchrocket, I'm not at that level yet for a sliding patchbox......soon!

Mickeyfirelock, Appreciate the comment.

54ball, Thanks for the comment, I really like the way the stock drops at the butt.

Nordnecker, Your critique is very welcomed. The panel is straight and it is the camera angle that is giving it a concave appearance. Actually it's a little too straight for my taste and feel there should be a little curvature to it but I may end up having to live with it.

Still working and studying the "C" and "S" scrolls. Trying to incorporate the waist carving pattern into the design to get some "flow" on the rifle but keeping it simple as with Mike's and  D. Taylor Sapergia suggestions.

Wish I had started doing this 30 years ago when the first notion hit me.

[Terry Reynolds]

I think you are doing some pretty good work. One thing I would examine is your lock panel profile. The rear of it looks a little bit concave in the picture. You might be able to improve it. Maybe it's just the angle of the photo, Or the rifle you're copying has a profile like that. This is only meant as constructive critique.

I saw the same thing, but the rest of it was so good I didn't want to be picky.

This fella seems to be a sculptor, not a carver!

.....or a bonehead if I screw it up! 

[Mike Brooks]

I think you are doing some pretty good work. One thing I would examine is your lock panel profile. The rear of it looks a little bit concave in the picture. You might be able to improve it. Maybe it's just the angle of the photo, Or the rifle you're copying has a profile like that. This is only meant as constructive critique.

I saw the same thing, but the rest of it was so good I didn't want to be picky.

This fella seems to be a sculptor, not a carver!

.....or a bonehead if I screw it up! 

Go to my tutorial and see how I shaped my lock panels. That's how most of the old guns looked in that area. That "fluting" you have isn't generally right except on some very late flint/cap guns. In fact on the Roman NC gun I'm working on it's right, for most other stuff no.

[Terry Reynolds]

I think you are doing some pretty good work. One thing I would examine is your lock panel profile. The rear of it looks a little bit concave in the picture. You might be able to improve it. Maybe it's just the angle of the photo, Or the rifle you're copying has a profile like that. This is only meant as constructive critique.

I saw the same thing, but the rest of it was so good I didn't want to be picky.

This fella seems to be a sculptor, not a carver!

.....or a bonehead if I screw it up! 

Go to my tutorial and see how I shaped my lock panels. That's how most of the old guns looked in that area. That "fluting" you have isn't generally right except on some very late flint/cap guns. In fact on the Roman NC gun I'm working on it's right, for most other stuff no.

Mike, What fluting are you specking of? Going down the fore end? If so, I would like to widen/deepen the fluting down the fore end.

Sorry, still working on my terminology/nomenclature.

[Mike Brooks]

Mike, What fluting are you specking of? Going down the fore end? If so, I would like to widen/deepen the fluting down the fore end.

Sorry, still working on my terminology/nomenclature.

Around the rear of your lock panels.

[Chowmi]

Mike, What fluting are you specking of? Going down the fore end? If so, I would like to widen/deepen the fluting down the fore end.

Sorry, still working on my terminology/nomenclature.

Around the rear of your lock panels.

Digger,
What I think Mike is talking about is the way you have already defined the rear portion of your lock panels. You have "dished out" the transition from the wrist area to the panel and essentially established something similar to lock panel moulding, but not in the right way.

Look at pictures  5,6 and 8 of the Rupp rifle in this link from our archives:
http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=19352.0

I know it's not the same style of rifle that you are building, but this link had the first good pictures I found of the point that we are trying to make.

Cheers,
Norm.

[Kingsburyarms]

You MAY just have enough there to create a pair of Beaver Tails....  Behind your lock looks like this - sharp pointed and aligns with your lock ...







So if you have enough wood, draw in a set of Beaver Tails....

Sort of like this:







Then carefully cut around the beaver tail and mold it into the rear of the lock (and side plate) of your stock, making both sides the same length and size - go easy, these suckers can look big when done...










Check the length and the size of both sides, and make sure they are the same, small changes, small - -









The final result is kind of cool, and to Mikes point - very accurate and original...

[smallpatch]

I think the concave portion is for cock clearance??
Most of it will go away when the lock panels are cut back to final level.

[Terry Reynolds]

.....and so it begins!





Kingsbury, I’ll be trying to wipe up some beaver tails once I get over the jitters with this buttock. Thanks

[davebozell]

It's  hard to tell from the pictures, but I like to see more than half of the side barrel flat exposed.  It gives the rifle a slimmer look.  Your work so far looks really good.  Keep it up.

[Terry Reynolds]

Thanks Dave.

I understand what you are saying about half the barrel showing making the stock look slimmer but I may be to far in the game now to do any changes.
 
Couple of reasons, one, its a swamp barrel, do you shape the forearm to the contour of the swamp barrel or just plain it straight to expose half the barrel and not worry about the swamp contour.

Two, I have already pinned my nosecap on and not sure I can file it down where it needs to be.

I'll look at this closer on my second build. Thanks again.

[Mikecooper]

I like the carving so far,  simple and elegant. 

Here's a top view of a lock panel sloping transition into the wrist area rather than an abrupt termination. 




upload pictures

[davebozell]

The barrel exposure back at the lock looks pretty good.  You can always file a little off the nose cap to expose more there, and then just blend between the breach and the muzzle.  Better to work on it now if you can.

[smallpatch]

When you expose half (or a little more ) of a barrel,  the center line is the center of the barrel.  Whether it's swamped or straight.

[Mr. Bubbles]

You might want to think about blunting the tips of your curls some, and bringing them in toward the stalk of the tendril.  Right now they look like a bunch of sharp hooks.