Author Topic: Building an Ohio Style Halfstock - broken photos fixed! (Read 40965 times)

Pukka Bundook · « **Reply #75 on:** February 07, 2018, 06:05:13 PM »

Very nice thread and build, Curtis! Some good info here for all.

To save the life of your hacksaw blades in future when cutting spring steel, Just put the steel in the vise good and tight, and take a flat ended punch, and belt the excess over with a hammer. If it doesn't break off, belt it back and it will break the excess off pretty clean. Only needs filing then. Saves a lot of hacksaw blades!

SingleMalt · « **Reply #76 on:** February 07, 2018, 07:32:49 PM »

That's coming along nicely, Curtis! The only problem I see is it will be too pretty to hunt with.

JVavrek · « **Reply #77 on:** February 08, 2018, 04:25:35 AM »

Curtis, You truly are an inspiration. Thanks for keeping us updated. I didn't see stubby in any of these pics

Curtis · « **Reply #78 on:** February 08, 2018, 06:35:39 AM »

Many thanks, fellas!

Quote from: Pukka Bundook on February 07, 2018, 06:05:13 PM

To save the life of your hacksaw blades in future when cutting spring steel, Just put the steel in the vise good and tight, and take a flat ended punch, and belt the excess over with a hammer.

Good advise, Pukka. I have done that with files, should have tried it with the spring.

Quote from: SingleMalt on February 07, 2018, 07:32:49 PM

The only problem I see is it will be too pretty to hunt with.

I'm thinking in order to insure he hunts with it I will just have to go with him, darn it!

Quote from: JVavrek on February 08, 2018, 04:25:35 AM

I didn't see stubby in any of these pics

Patience is a virtue... he is still hanging around the shop.

Curtis · « **Reply #79 on:** February 08, 2018, 06:37:18 AM »

Quote from: g.pennell on February 07, 2018, 05:43:08 PM

Nice touch! Now you know you have to put a silver nameplate on the top flat...😄
Greg

Now why would I push my luck and go an do something like that, an risk mucking up the rifle??

Just messing with you Greg!

It's like you were reading my mind or something....

Next installment - Inlaying a silver nameplate on the top flat of the barrel:
Pucker factor = 9.5

Greg Pennell · « **Reply #80 on:** February 08, 2018, 07:10:11 AM »

Actually, I’m hoping to learn from watching how you do it...got a pistol I’m finishing up, and a couple rifle builds behind it. I might screw my courage to the sticking point... 🙄

Greg

Curtis · « **Reply #81 on:** February 08, 2018, 07:35:47 AM »

Hope this helps some, Greg. If I can do it, so can you!

Since I had some silver left, and I am a glutton for punishment, I decided to add a silver escutcheon or nameplate to the barrel. Eric von Aschwege has an excellent tutorial on his website for doing this: http://www.neahkahnieflintlocks.com/silver-barrel-escutcheon.html

I followed his methods pretty closely, with the exception of using a woodruff cutter in my drill press to remove the bulk of the metal. I bought a set of these form Grizzly about 10 years ago and have never used them, I figured it was about time to see if they worked. It did a fine job!

I then engraved a straight line across the ends and used a flat graver and a square graver to remove the remaining metal, square the edges and clean out the corners.

There is a lot more room to work with inletting a plate as opposed to a band, so instead of upsetting the metal on the edges I undercut the sides using a 60^o graver. This gives the metal a space to flow into and trap itself as it is peened into place.

Then I raised some barbs with a square graver to help hold the metal in place and not stretch too much in one dimension:

The silver was cut with snips, then filed till it was a snug fit to the opening, slightly raised in the middle by being bent in a slight arc. The silver was the gently tapped flat and in place.

Now it is time to get some metal moving, firmly but gentle. Who could persuade a bit of silver to move better than my old buddy Stubby!

So I polished up his face and put him to work.

I also employed a few other methods and punches. I had to use a smaller brass punch in one corner to push the silver that way but didn't get a photo.

When I was certain all the voids were filled I filed of the excess silver. Done, whew!

Thanks for looking,
Curtis

Curtis · « **Reply #82 on:** February 08, 2018, 08:23:01 AM »

I saved some of the silver filings, I thought they might come in handy for some braising project in the future.

Now back to the rear sight... most commercial site bases are too thick for my liking, so I generally thin them on the occasions that I don't make my own. I like to "float" the base on a file as it creates a nice, flat surface if done with care.

Before cutting the dovetail I like to have a visual gauge - in this example the depth of the dovetail is about the same as height of the teeth on my hacksaw blade.

Also barley visible in the photo but the corner on the sight dovetail can be used to scribe a mark of the depth to be cut.

There are plenty of tutorials on cutting dovetails so I won't go into that here, of course if there is a question about the process I can try to answer it. With this style of sight you have to be very precise with your dovetail, as you cannot raise the metal by swaging the dovetail since the sight rests on the barrel surface. Here is the sight in place:

I also used a commercial sight for the front. As you can see the base it quite thick and I will have to file it down. I prefer .030 to .035 for a sight base or a barrel lug, this base is almost .090

That's all for now, more in a day or two. Thanks for looking,

Curtis

JVavrek · « **Reply #83 on:** February 08, 2018, 11:48:11 PM »

Curtis, Every time you post another part of this build. I see another tool I need

D. Taylor Sapergia · « **Reply #84 on:** February 09, 2018, 12:09:05 AM »

Nice photo documentary Curtis...enjoying this process a lot. And there is no such thing as a rifle too pretty to hunt with. that's like saying my wallet is too full of money, or that woman is too beautiful...you get the idea.

Greg Pennell · « **Reply #85 on:** February 09, 2018, 05:41:34 AM »

Curtis, you make this look too easy! I just might have to try one of those nameplates.

Greg

Curtis · « **Reply #86 on:** February 09, 2018, 05:56:28 AM »

Quote from: JVavrek on February 08, 2018, 11:48:11 PM

Curtis, Every time you post another part of this build. I see another tool I need

JVavrek, as a diagnosed tool junky I can fully empathize

Quote from: D. Taylor Sapergia on February 09, 2018, 12:09:05 AM

Nice photo documentary Curtis...enjoying this process a lot. And there is no such thing as a rifle too pretty to hunt with. that's like saying my wallet is too full of money, or that woman is too beautiful...you get the idea.

with that statement.

Thanks Taylor! And I agree 100% with you, no rifle is too pretty to hunt with! Can't understand why some folks feel that way at all.

Quote from: g.pennell on February 09, 2018, 05:41:34 AM

Curtis, you make this look too easy! I just might have to try one of those nameplates.

Greg

Greg, like a lot of things the hardest part is getting up the courage to try it! You can always make a trial run on a scrap of barrel. Heck, if I dare say, you could even use the side of a railroad spike to practice on, it's pretty close to the right size for a barrel flat.

Curtis

Greg Pennell · « **Reply #87 on:** February 09, 2018, 06:24:00 AM »

Curtis, I think I have a couple of those “all purpose” tools down in the forge. Don’t tell C&O Railroad...

Greg

Curtis · « **Reply #88 on:** February 10, 2018, 07:02:48 AM »

Your secret is safe with me, Gary!

Not much to post today. Got the front sight installed and started on some decorative filing of the trigger guard.

I have a couple of antique trigger guards that are similar in style to the one used for this rifle. I took some inspiration from the decorative filing on the old guards.

First I penciled on the some reference lines, then I cut them in shallowly with a jeweler's saw to help keep my filing on course. Not really necessary but it can help prevent the file from slipping off course.

Then I used a safe edge 3 corner file to remove the brass I wanted gone.

I'll post more when I have something to show.
Thanks for looking,
Curtis

SingleMalt · « **Reply #89 on:** February 10, 2018, 01:11:02 PM »

I've done the same thing with electrical tape, Curtis.

Nordnecker · « **Reply #90 on:** February 10, 2018, 04:08:17 PM »

This has sure been a great thread. Thank you, Curtis, for taking the time to photo and post all of this. I'm looking forward to the rest of this build.

Chowmi · « **Reply #91 on:** February 10, 2018, 07:39:36 PM »

Curtis,
I like your idea. of using the jeweler's saw for those triangular decorations. I just made the same on a trigger guard the other day, but without the saw.
I did use the saw for some of the horizontal lines, which worked out like a champ.

thanks for adding to my bucket of techniques!

Norm

hortonstn · « **Reply #92 on:** February 10, 2018, 08:11:22 PM »

Curtis
This is a great post keep up the great work
Across the river
Paul

Curtis · « **Reply #93 on:** February 11, 2018, 08:25:08 AM »

Thanks for all your thoughts and comments guys. I worked a bit on the rifle today, mostly cleaning up the buttplate, countersinking screws and case hardening the screws after filing them to contour. Didn't take any photos, to boring to post anyway! Hopefully tomorrow I will do some testing of stain combinations and have some results to post.

Curtis

Curtis · « **Reply #94 on:** February 17, 2018, 08:11:48 AM »

Been helping a family member out who is building a house and other stuff, and haven't had much time in the shop lately. I did do some testing of various stains and combinations, from varying concentration of aquifortis with and without tannic acid, to ferric chloride mixes, both of the above with and without LMF stains. I have some vinegaroon brewing, if it gets ready before I need to stain the rifle I will try some of that as well. Here are some of the results:

It turns out that the curl fades considerably by the time it reaches the forestock, so I tried some fake striping using tannic acid or concentrated aquafortis, which are shown in the second pic. I did not like the results so won't be doing that! It was a fun experiment, however.

Finished the decorative filing on the TG.

I filed up and polished the hammer, then cut some checkering on the thumb grip. I used a jeweler's saw to cut in the lines and then a small triangular file the chase out the grooves. The saw groves helped to prevent slippage of the file on the polished, concave surface and helped with keeping the lines straight.

That all I got for now, will post more when I can.

Curtis

David Rase · « **Reply #95 on:** February 17, 2018, 05:19:27 PM »

Curtis,
I admire your discipline to photograph and share your projects. I have started out several times with great intentions to document some of my work in anticipation of sharing and helping others and then forget to or get too involved and miss photographing a section of work. There is so much to learn and so much to share in our work. I always pick up at the least a tidbit of information from our members writings. Keep up the good work and hopefully the rest of us, me included, can provide more documentation of how we do things.
David

P.W.Berkuta · « **Reply #96 on:** February 17, 2018, 07:07:55 PM »

That eagle looks like a Phillie eagle

Hungry Horse · « **Reply #97 on:** February 17, 2018, 08:17:12 PM »

Curtis;

Thank you for a thread that doesn’t start out with buy a lathe, milling machine, and a wire welder. The old timers could stock up a rifle in a pretty short time, using the methods you demonstrate in this thread.
They also repaired the shortcomings of the chosen stock wood, or even their building ability, and produce fine working firearms. Often it took a hundred years of use, and misuse, for those repairs to become apparent.

Hungry Horse

Curtis · « **Reply #98 on:** February 18, 2018, 09:08:42 AM »

Thanks for all your comments guys! I enjoy doing things with my hand tools, akin to the old fashion way. It seems to be more in tunewith my "inner artist"

Quote from: David Rase on February 17, 2018, 05:19:27 PM

Curtis,
I admire your discipline to photograph and share your projects. I have started out several times with great intentions to document some of my work in anticipation of sharing and helping others and then forget to or get too involved and miss photographing a section of work. There is so much to learn and so much to share in our work. I always pick up at the least a tidbit of information from our members writings. Keep up the good work and hopefully the rest of us, me included, can provide more documentation of how we do things.
David

David, I would love to see more of the "inner workings" of what come out of your shop and others! I confess that I am a bit of a shutterbug and that helps when it comes to remembering to photograph my progress... I still get wrapped up in what I'm doing from time to time and forget to snap some good photo material. I think the visual aides really help folks see how something was done over just a verbal description

Funny story related to my photographer past - I digress from the topic of discussion so please forgive me. When I was in high school I was the photographer for the town newspaper, and also the school yearbook, and did some freelance work on my own. (I saved up and purchased all the equipment for my home darkroom). During football season I carried 3 cameras to the games. I took action photos for the newspaper and yearbook with their respective equipment, and special photos of the cheerleaders and football players with my own. So in one evening I drew a paycheck, got credit for a class, then sold cheerleader photos to the cheerleaders and the football guys, and photos of the football heroes to the cheerleaders!

Curtis.

Curtis · « **Reply #99 on:** February 20, 2018, 08:57:06 AM »

I drilled and tapped the drum and installed the nipple today, among other things. After installing the drum, I visually align the nipple with the hammer nose, centered on the drum, then mark the position. Next scribe the center-line of the hammer and punch a mark.

I then drill a pilot hole, mindful of keeping the hole centered on the drum. When drilling by hand I like to sneak up on the final drill size, using several bits in succession. Then I tapped the drum for the nipple, and filed a flat spot for the nipple to seat on. I like to do it after the hole is tapped, some may prefer to make a flat spot before drilling to help prevent drill wander.

Then install the nipple and pray it all lines up. I used a flash cup for this one, to help protect the silver bands from overflash.

I like to use captured wedges, it prevents them from getting misplaced and stolen by gremlins. I drilled a series of holes, cut them through with a jewelwer's saw, then filed the slot smooth. I will pin it in the stock later.

I also cut the cheek inlay, made it about 20% larger than the wedge escutcheons. I was originally thinking about using an oval inlay but thought the elongated shape of the eagle in flight flowed better with the angular, skinny cheek.

The trusty pistol stock was used to give the inlay the necessary concave shape.

Next step is to inlay the piece:

I will have it in for the next posting.

Thanks for looking,
Curtis

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Author Topic: Building an Ohio Style Halfstock - broken photos fixed! (Read 40965 times)

JVavrek

JVavrek