This is just to clarify...I used Lauber's neat book to build this lock. It did take a month of eight hour days and I made everything, except the ball bearing including springs and screws. After I had made the wheels, one notched for pyrite and the other smooth for flint, I rough cut the appropriate motches in the pan, then used the hardened serrated wheel to finish cut them. Both wheels fit the pan notches exactly and no powder escapes.
On original wheellocks, the wheel rotates around 7/8 of a full revolution, I've read./ But opn the Lauber lock, I only get 3/4 of a revolution. But the action is lightning fast, there is no jar, and ignition is noticably faster than a flintlock. That pistol has a simple trigger, not a set trigger, though a set trigger would have been appropriate. What makes trigger pull so light and precise, is the pivot being located above the lock itself, and the action is straight back against a secondary sear. The trigger simply pushes a small catch out of the way, allowing the primary sear to disengage from the wheel. It is also very easy to cock. A remarkable bit of engineering.
