Author Topic: My Forging Process...Final Package Quill Sheath Added (Read 7440 times)

tippit · « **on:** January 28, 2018, 09:56:39 PM »

It raining in Aiken, SC...perfect day to get back into forging. I haven't done a Keeslar flared finger guard knife in quite awhile. Just the first forge without any profile grinding...all hammer work at this point. Right now the OAL is 10 1/2 inches forged from a 7 inch piece of an old Nicholson file. It needs to have the profile cleaned up with the grinder. Then go back into the forge and stretch the blade a couple more inches as there is still too much metal in it...tippit

tippit · « **Reply #1 on:** January 29, 2018, 12:57:10 AM »

Back in forge for the second time, profiled, and rough ground blade with 36 grit 2X72 belt. Now 11 1/2 inches OAL...

Greg Pennell · « **Reply #2 on:** January 29, 2018, 06:54:08 AM »

I’m liking where you’re going with this one. What are you planning for handle scales?

Greg

Elnathan · « **Reply #3 on:** January 30, 2018, 05:27:03 PM »

You do a good job of getting it close to final shape in the forge. My forgings always look like a flattened potato with a tang sticking out, and need quite a bit of work with a file to get to final profile. Since I am usually trying to achieve a very specific size and shape a bit of excess metal is handy, but still....

I'm surprised that you can get things right down to finished thickness without warpage problems, though. Anything under 3/16" of an inch or so tends to wiggle around on me, not matter how carefully I stress-relieve it. Doesn't seem to matter if it is forged or done by stock removal either, so it doesn't seem like it is a matter of how I forge things, either....I am firmly of the "forge thick, grind thin" school of thought in consequence.

rich pierce · « **Reply #4 on:** January 30, 2018, 05:56:20 PM »

I will just say, Tippet, that you are holding out on us. It’s like “presto” - near final form forged knife!

If you have a chance would love to see some intermediate steps.

tippit · « **Reply #5 on:** January 31, 2018, 12:20:29 AM »

I basically forge to almost finish (on a few knives I've had no grinding even on the edge just to see if I could do it). I bring my edge down to about 1/2 the width of a dime before I quench...almost sharp. If there is any warping, it can be straighten right out of the hot quench oil by hand with welder's gloves. I take the knife out of the quench after I count to 10. You have about 30 seconds to bend by hand or light hammer taps on the blade to straighten if needed. If your bevels are symmetrical either by forging or grinding, there is much less chance of warping. Then back into to the quench oil until it cools.

I consider myself more of an old time blacksmith who would have done his grinding on a stone wheel...the less steel to be removed the better...tippit

tippit · « **Reply #6 on:** January 31, 2018, 12:39:34 AM »

rich pierce,
The blade on the anvil is the first step. It went from that rectangular file that is under the knife on the anvil to that shape with just hammers...no profile grinding or bevel grinding. The second picture was the second time out of the forge where I lengthened the blade and changed the shape some what. Plus ground the profile even and ground the blade bevel down to an edge about the thickness of 1/2 a dime. That stage needs to be softened to drill my pin holes in the handle and quench/temper it. Then finish the blade bevel grind to smooth & sharp and put a handle on.

g.pennel
I'm thinking of sheep horn for the handle. This will be on my bench for a little while as I'm working on a couple of small simple no-fills no-handle hunting bag knives like this...

tippit · « **Reply #7 on:** January 31, 2018, 01:07:01 AM »

rich pierce,
I see what you are talking about. These are a couple pictures of making that style of knife with the flared finger guard. Handle first, next the flare, the blade pulled out, and finally pulling the edge down...

rich pierce · « **Reply #8 on:** January 31, 2018, 06:03:46 PM »

Thanks, Tippet! Wish you were next door!

tippit · « **Reply #9 on:** January 31, 2018, 08:00:37 PM »

The important thing about the flared finger guard is to Always keep it Off the Anvil. If you even nick it with your hammer, you might as well just grind it smooth as you'll never be able to match it up with the other side...tippit

Nordnecker · « **Reply #10 on:** February 01, 2018, 03:37:59 PM »

Pretty slick pair of tongs you got there.

tippit · « **Reply #11 on:** February 01, 2018, 04:43:21 PM »

Nordnecker,
You can never have enough tongs & hammers

tippit · « **Reply #12 on:** February 02, 2018, 11:09:21 PM »

Another flared finger guard knife ready to be quenched. This gives you a view of the flare that helps protect your finger...

View from blade edge...

tippit · « **Reply #13 on:** February 02, 2018, 11:20:25 PM »

Last post...
I don't forge a lot of files...but they are really cool to do the flared finger guard as the filing grooves flare out and compress around the guard...tippit

Marcruger · « **Reply #14 on:** February 03, 2018, 01:22:22 AM »

Tippit,

I think this little knife would look super with curly maple scales done in Aqua Fortis. I really like the lines of this one. God Bless, Marc

tippit · « **Reply #15 on:** February 03, 2018, 01:42:02 AM »

Marcruger,
That little knife is finished. My pack knives don't have any scales...they live in my hunting pack and only see day light when there is a deer or hog to dress in the field

Most of my knives that are finished with scales or antler are either sold or donated to charity. My knives don't get dressed up

tippit · « **Reply #16 on:** February 06, 2018, 11:18:04 PM »

Forging process knife continued...

Quenched, tempered, final grind with a Scotch Brite belt finish. Will probably hand finish blade later although the Scotch Brite belt is a nice fast finish especially for a working knife. Now ready for some sheep horn scales. Tried to get a picture of how thin the edge is even on a big knife...tippit

B.Barker · « **Reply #17 on:** February 07, 2018, 06:24:01 AM »

tippit did you take some classes from the knife school in Arkansas? You're making some nice knives. Seen them over on traditional bow forum too.

tippit · « **Reply #18 on:** February 07, 2018, 05:06:35 PM »

B.Barker,
I haven't been to the ABS Arkansas school...but I do go to an ABS Hammer-in every year in Clyde NC. I have been lucky in having a number of Master and Journeyman Smiths as good friends. Anyone starting or wanting to forge would cut years off their learning curve if they attended an ABS weekend hammer-in. Usually these hammer-ins will have Mastersmiths that will go through the entire process of forging/heat treating a knife in two days. Plus they are Cheap!

Greg Pennell · « **Reply #19 on:** February 07, 2018, 06:14:25 PM »

Tippit, what kind of belt grinder setup do you use? I’ve been looking at several designs on YouTube, and will probably make something pretty soon. I don’t know that I’ll make very many knives, but I can see lots of other uses for a 2x72 grinder around the shop.

Greg

Pukka Bundook · « **Reply #20 on:** February 07, 2018, 06:35:38 PM »

Lovely work Tippit! I really like the finger-guard, and have never been a fan of a cross-guard.
You must run the heat pretty low for files? I have never had good luck with files. No time to daydream when they're in the fire! LOl!

tippit · « **Reply #21 on:** February 07, 2018, 08:56:51 PM »

First off I apologize for making this post so long. I hadn't intended to do a pictorial on my whole forging process.

Final process applying scales...
Once I'm happy with my finished blade, I cut grooves into the full tang handle to give more surface for my glue to hold the scales.

Then I'll finish the blade end of one scale, clamp it to the tang, and drill pin holes tang into the scale. Now I'll take the other sacle unshaped, clamp it to my drilled scale, and drill it. This way the scales match up perfectly. On the flared finger guard, I fit the the two scales together and finish the blade end so I won't hit the protruding flared guard with my belt grinder.

Next rough grind the scales pinned on the tang but Not glued on. I use expensive 4 penny finishing nails for my pins

Everything is all set to gule and clamp the scales on. Once the JB weld is set up, I'll cut my pins and finish shaping the handle. With sheep horn, I like to narrow the part closest to the blade and polish it but leave the butt on the scales rough.

Basically I done. I'll post a picture of the knife finished in a couple of days. Thanks for looking and all the nice comments...tippit

tippit · « **Reply #22 on:** February 07, 2018, 09:30:13 PM »

Pukka Bundook,
I use a gas forge most of the time so you can day dream a little as apposed to using my coal forge where you can burn steel fast. I don't run the heat that low for files. With files you have to figure out the quench & tempering temperatures because it's like working with mystery steel.

g.pennell,
I use a KMG 2x72 grinder with a variable speed 220 motor. If you make a grinder, make it so it will accept KMG attachments.

Greg Pennell · « **Reply #23 on:** February 08, 2018, 01:53:24 AM »

Thanks for all the tips! These kinds of posts are the best for me...really help shorten the learning curve!

Greg

FDR · « **Reply #24 on:** February 08, 2018, 03:31:53 AM »

Here is a tip for you. 3/32" welding rod makes perfect try pins. Welding supply houses have them in brass, aluminum and steel. I just cut to length and turn the tops over at 90 degrees so they do not fall out.

Fred

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Author Topic: My Forging Process...Final Package Quill Sheath Added (Read 7440 times)