Front lock screw workaround

[Scota4570]

I got my blunderbuss barrel blank today.  It is 1 3/4" diameter at the breech end.  My bess lock won't allow for a front lock screw for such a large diameter barrel.  I was thinking of putting a piece of 1/2" brass rod across the stock at the location of the front lock screw.  It would be threaded on both sides to allow attaching the lock and side plate.  The middle would be hogged out to match the barrel inlet.  I have to gain about 3/16" vertical, so I think it work out. I could use wood screws but this just seems cleaner and stronger.   Any comments on my idea?

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

If I understand your plan, you are intending to attach both your side plate and the lock to the brass insert with machine screws.  Bear in mind that the frizzen spring probably covers the head of the machine screw on the lock side, so in order to remove the lock, the frizzen spring would have to be taken off first.  And the machine screw on the lock side would have to be countersunk so the head is flsh with the plate.  Do-able, but awkward.
May I suggest a hook on the inside front of the lock plate engaging a screw head in the mortise in place of that front lock bolt.  Then a single lock bolt into the plate's bolster would hold everything firmly.  A simple washer or inlay would replace the big two-screw side plate common on the Bess.

[Scota4570]

Great idea, like a  butplate top extension.  It's almost like you ran into this issue before.   Thanks. 

[Marcruger]

There are posts, and possibly tutorials on these forums on just this subject.  I am not sure how many photos regarding this work survived the Photobucket debacle.  Best wishes, and God Bless,   Marc

[ltdann]

If I understand your plan, you are intending to attach both your side plate and the lock to the brass insert with machine screws.  Bear in mind that the frizzen spring probably covers the head of the machine screw on the lock side, so in order to remove the lock, the frizzen spring would have to be taken off first.  And the machine screw on the lock side would have to be countersunk so the head is flsh with the plate.  Do-able, but awkward.
May I suggest a hook on the inside front of the lock plate engaging a screw head in the mortise in place of that front lock bolt.  Then a single lock bolt into the plate's bolster would hold everything firmly.  A simple washer or inlay would replace the big two-screw side plate common on the Bess.

I'm having a little trouble visualizing this in action.  Would you have a drawing or a picture.  I think I understand what your saying....  Never seem to get that front bolt  just right.

[Stophel]

My first post here in a long time...

My answer is, notch the barrel.   Install front lock bolt as normal.  No fuss, no muss.   

[Telgan]

Stophel - Glad to see you back. Was thinking about you just last week, and wondering what had become of you

[Tim Crosby]

 Yes, good to see you back, would like to see what you have been working on.

     Tim C.

[Turtle]

 If i want to do this, I thread the lockplate at the extreme front and install a big headed countersink type screw on the backside. I make a slot for it in the front of the  wood mortice. It's easy to adjust to get the right fit, and after that you file the other end off flush. I put a fake screw on the lockplate.

[Dennis Glazener]

Stophel
Good to have you back.
Dennis

[ddoyle]

Here are pictures of an ALR members gun showing The method Taylor described. It is the correct method for your build. Do not be short sighted enough to notch a barrel- it is very difficult to grow new barrel.


free image hosting reviews


upload image to webside

[Stophel]

Tim, I haven't been working on anything.  I haven't made a rifle in four years, and barely touched a flintlock at all in that time.

As to the barrel notching, it is simple, and straightforward, and certainly authentic.  It doesn't hurt anything at all to file a groove on the bottom of the barrel, within reason, of course.  I don't know what caliber the gun is, so I don't know how much barrel wall you have to work with, but I expect it is more than plenty.   

[Eric Kettenburg]

That screw method is certainly appropriate for maybe third quarter 18th century onward, although it much more common to simply notch the barrel even at that point.  I don't believe those screw/hook arrangements were common until the later 18th and early 19th century on continental guns.  As for American guns... good luck finding more than a very rare few until much later.

Nothing wrong with notching a barrel, if you're going for a simple and authentic solution to an ubiquitous issue.  Nothing wrong with the screw/hook method either, but if you're building up an earlier piece it's certainly functional and a good way to leave the barrel alone, but not 'correct.'

[jerrywh]

 Eric is correct in my opinion.  By the way the screw that the hook hooks into is threaded into a steel or brass plate in the stock that goes down into the stock from the barrel channel beside the rr hole. I found this out by disassembling originals.  I actually have never seen an original American long rifle with a hook front lock. I have done it a couple of times even if it isn't PC.

[ltdann]

Great picture, makes sense now.   The hook is soldered?  Never mind, I just reread and saw Turtles rather elegant solution.....

Wonder why that wasn't done more often?  Especially with all the angst that goes with that front lock bolt.

I've only done 3 builds and I've never managed to do it perfectly.

[Stophel]

They simply didn't have that angst 200 years ago.   

[Turtle]

 Personally, I don't worry about not having a front screw at all. I have several flinters I have shot for many years with no front screw with no problems. A full length ramrod hole is a must for me. I only install a cheater screw for authentic appearance, or if the customer insists.

[jerrywh]

[Scota4570]

Thanks,

Nice picture and drawing.  I can make that happen. 

On this one notching the barrel is not an option. 

Scot