Bandsaw

[Mauser06]

I think I need a bandsaw if I'm going to dive into plank builds. (I have 3 planks in the closet waiting...)


I know you could use a hand saw...but man..that's a longggggg cut and I'd never get it right when slabbing off sides and profiling.


Any recommendations on a useable bandsaw that won't drain the bank account?  Eventually I'd like to upgrade...but right now, I have some work to do to the house.


I found a 12" Craftsman belt drive bandsaw-sander online..used for $80. Looks like it's in good condition...seems way too cheap...didn't know if it was garbage or if it'd be useful and worth $80. The belt sander would be kinda cool to have too as I don't have one yet. 


I'm open to suggestions.  Don't know if the Craftsman is a good deal or if there's other models that sell fairly cheap on the used market or what...

Or maybe a hand cutting system that I can't screw up so bad...


Thanx!

[Mark Elliott]

I have a 14" Jet that I am happy with.   It is basically the same as the Delta and Powermatic but without a few bells and whistles.   I wouldn't get anything smaller than that for cutting out stocks.   As to using a hand saw; it is probably more precise for the long cuts than a bandsaw.   A handsaw is just a lot of work; particularly in hard maple.

[P.W.Berkuta]

The Craftsman brand in the distant past was a good brand although they never built the machinery they subcontracted out to some of the better manufactures in the US (many years ago in the 60's  when it was Sears & Roebuck). If you can find a older model in VERY GOOD condition I would buy it but remember that you may not find parts for it if something needed replacing. With that said I would look for a 14" band saw with a 3/4 hp motor as a minimum. I have a 16" Grizzly with a 1 hp motor and I like it - does everything I want it to and more.   

[Mauser06]

Thanks guys!


I really struggle with hand saw lol. Once the cut is started slightly crooked it turns into a mess. I wouldn't mind the time and work..I just lake the precision. Maybe a good handsaw would make that difference? 

My one plank is extra thick and the barrel is centered. Probably able to slab off 3/4" off each side down to the lock panels.



What kind of handsaw would I need to look at?   That's probably my issue.. using regular cheap ole handsaws...

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

I had a Jet for about thirty years and it served me well.  It has iron bushings for centering the blade and I used it to make about a hundred guns from planks.  Then I bought a King 14" with bearings instead of bushings, and it's a peach.  Does the same job but with better control.  The blade speed is very adjustable too, so I can slow it right down to cut metal.

[T*O*F]

I found a 12" Craftsman belt drive bandsaw-sander online..used for $80.

I started with one of those because I didn't have to pay for it.  I got it as a premium with bonus bucks.  It's not much more than a large jigsaw.  I did cut a couple of walnut blanks with it, but it was a struggle.

You can cut blanks out of planks with a saber saw and the correct blade.

[45-110]

the 14" 2 wheel saw is the way to go, you wont have any regrets......but invest in a set of bearing blade guides. a few extra blades varying in tpi and maybe width.
kw

[Bob Roller]

I have what I call a "Searsnroebuck" 12" bandsaw from 1940 or near there and it has
4 speeds and I use it only for metal cutting.Uses a 1/2x80 blade.
Also a friend gave me her late husband's Black&Decker drill press,a small bench top model.
It works fine and was unused for years.

Bob Roller

[David Rase]

Mauser06,
I have had my 12" craftsman bandsaw for 30 years.  Bought it brand new in 1987 for around $300.00.  It still has the original motor.  I recently put on a new set of tires.  I have changed out the guide blocks once and replaced the light bulb.  The only other maintenance I do besides adjusting the guide blocks and roller bearings is vacuum it out about 4 times a year.  I am cutting around 80 stock blanks a year and have been doing that for the past 15 years.  I have thought about a new 14" saw but then think why, this one is still performing great. 
Below is an internet photo of the model I own.
David
 

[PPatch]

I purchased a Rikon 14" bandsaw ($250) several years ago specifically for cutting the profile of blanks. It does the job without a lot of fuss, I am happy with it. Setup is the most important thing with a bandsaw, plus having the right blade for the job at hand. You will want a few different blades for versitily, my workhorse blade, 1/2" width, comes from these folks: https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/wood-slicer-resaw-bandsaw-blades.aspx

For setting up your saw this is the best video out there;

dave

ADD: I have an old Sears 12" band saw, I couldn't find the parts to rebuild it.!

ADD2: Regards squaring your blank, you can only do so much with a band saw, rough the blank into somewhere near true square. I square the blanks with hand planes, the method is simple in that you plane the top of the blank flat, you then plane the lock side square with the top, if you're feeling froggy you and then plane the offside square to the top (I do). Do this before you band saw the profile! I have two main planes for this job, Both old stanley's I have reconditioned. The workhorse is a Stanley 12" Jointer plane, I also use a #4 setup as a scrub plane, and another #4 for smoothing.

[Mike Brooks]

Mauser06,
I have had my 12" craftsman bandsaw for 30 years.  Bought it brand new in 1987 for around $300.00.  It still has the original motor.  I recently put on a new set of tires.  I have changed out the guide blocks once and replaced the light bulb.  The only other maintenance I do besides adjusting the guide blocks and roller bearings is vacuum it out about 4 times a year.  I am cutting around 80 stock blanks a year and have been doing that for the past 15 years.  I have thought about a new 14" saw but then think why, this one is still performing great. 
Below is an internet photo of the model I own.
David
 

I got the same one only I paid10 bucks for mine at an auction. Been using it for about 6 years now. Finally figured out what blade to use to get good  results. Could use some new guide blocks now....

[Jeff Durnell]

I have an older 14" Craftsman bandsaw that I bought new 20 years ago. I believe it has a 1 hp motor. This thing has cut up countless bow staves and logs, many of which are harder wood than maple, and it shows no sign of slowing down. I put bearing guides on it which is a huge improvement over the guide blocks. It'll do well for gun work but I wouldn't go any smaller.

Other manufacturers make almost the exact same thing, so keep your eye out for 14" Deltas, Jets, Rockwells, etc.

Watch your local Craigslist ads, sometimes they show up on there for a good price. I got about half of my shop tools from Craigslist. Sometimes folks have big plans, buy big tools, and they go almost completely unused... eventually they're just in the way and you can buy them for half the cost of a new one.

[Mauser06]

Well, David Rase and Mike Brooks both have the exact model listed for sale.....


If it works for them, it might be worth a short trip and $80.


Might not be the best....but aughta get me started.


If it's sold or not in good shape, you guys gave me lots of other good leads...


Still not opposed to a hand saw...I'm just not skilled with one.  I actually have more bandsaw experience.  Still not much but I feel like I could get the blank closer to profile without any major issues.

[Mauser06]

PPatch, great info! 

I appreciate all that!   


I believe my blanks are square.  Barrels have been inlet into the 2 rifle blanks. I haven't measured and checked them. I do know there's some wood that needs slabbed off before it's close enough to start roughing out. 

Certainly not afraid of hand work.  I have a few old planes that I haven't gotten around to messing with.


Most of you guys know I'm new to building and I'm enjoying learning and gathering tools as I go and learning to use them. After this precarve is out of the vice, I wanna get one of the blanks in it and see how it goes.  Intimidated but I think I can handle it and I think I will enjoy it. The shaping and finishing are my favorite parts really. 

[Dave Patterson]

...What kind of handsaw would I need to look at?   That's probably my issue.. using regular cheap ole handsaws...

Well yes:  cheap handsaws are nothing but a source of frustration; they bind, they kink, don't hold a "sharp" or set... not worth the little money you paid.

The best handsaw I've found, to date, for stock work, is a large, antique cabinet-makers' frame saw with a 6TPI x 16" crosscut blade and about 11" deep throat. 

Similar to this one:  https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Frame-Saw/323132999532?hash=item4b3c3a476c:g:4gwAAOSwn~JapEkA

[Tim Crosby]

 I made a post the other day on rebuilding/setting up my Sears 12".  I went through Sears at this number to get the parts I needed, 1-800-4663, I've got another but I think they are the same place, 1-800-366-7278.

  Tim C.

[Eric Krewson]

I used the same 12" Craftsman saw for years, even though it is only 1/2 horse, with a sharp 3 or 4 TPI skip tooth blade it will cut well.

I decided I wanted more power and got a big Griz later on.

[davebozell]

If you need parts for a Craftsman saw, most are still available from Sears.  I have a 1983 model that I have used quite a bit.  The lower shaft and bearings went out several years ago.  Everything was available from Sears to put it back together.  It's still runnng strong.  Mine is also a twin to the one shown by Dave Rase.

[Longshot]

I too, started my stationary power tool collection with a then [1976?] new craftsman 12" bandsaw.  Made a table extension, rip fence, circle cutter etc and somewhere along the line got hold of Mark Duginski's bandsaw book, which taught me how to keep it running right.  Since then I've acquired a souped up Delta 14, which is appreciably smoother and stronger.  Nonetheless, I got so comfortable with the Craftsman that I continue to use it frequently.  As with certain other tools, technique and user skills contribute much to the effective use of a bandsaw. 

[L. Akers]

I, too, have the same saw as misters Rose and Brooks bought new back in the 70's.  With a 1/2". 3 tooth blade I have no problem sawing 6-7" thick maple.

[Scota4570]

I got a Shopsmith band saw, just the saw, at a garage sale.  I rigged a stand and motor.  It works fine.  The blades are a weird size.  Check on blade size/ availability before you buy.

[wapiti22]

I've had a  14" Grizzly for over 10 years and it works great. And, I can get parts for it if needed. These are solid machines and yes, they are from you know where, starts with a "C".

[mark esterly]

shopsmith are 72"     there is enough adjustment that i have run a 70 1/2"  from home depot on it though.  just have to ignore the tension scale.

[Bob Roller]

I've had a  14" Grizzly for over 10 years and it works great. And, I can get parts for it if needed. These are solid machines and yes, they are from you know where, starts with a "C".

Maintainability is a big selling point.I have a new one year ago horizontal bandsaw
from Harbor Freight and it was bought from immediate need and I have yet to see
if backup parts are available. So far so good and it is a well made and well engineered
saw and still on the original blade.Heck of a buy for $259.
Bob Roller

[flehto]

Some yes ago I bought a 14" free standing Jet and didn't like the plastic block blade guides so bought ball bearing guides and now can saw on the line. It has cut quite a few blanks and seeing the cuts are on the line, the amount of wood removal aftr sawing is minimal. Can't find fault w/ the machine w/ the new ball bearing blade guides.....Fred